Could those red and green leds be located on the console, a pair fro every switch this would show at a glance that all switches were on line and which ones were at the limit or home? This may have already been addressed as I just found this excellent way above my head topic. I need to add these switches to my DIY twelve year old CNC, been running manual way too long.
It would be nice if someone took all this information and put it in book form it sure would save many people a lot of time from going down dead end rabbit holes.
Thanks
I had some A 3144 HE sensors and I connected one up on a breadboard and it works according to the LED.
Now I want try it on the C25S BOB PORT 1 PIN 10.
I have marked up the drawing showing where I think it needs to be connected, but I’m not sure, is it correct or do I need to make a different connection?
The other diagram (no led) is from the manufacturer and with that configuration it a digital output. Is it still a digital output the way the one with a LED is configured?
The A3144 pin out just like the SS441 pin out in this thread. In that case should I be able to follow the same wiring layouts, is that true????.
I know you are having fun and learning, but why are you messing this primitive switching, for your machine you can buy ready to use proximity switches from eBay Etc. for little money that are ready to mount use 3 wire connection job done NPN or PNP NC depending on what your needs are
Mactec54
I bought two different styles and was unable to make them work.unable to find any wiring diagrams for them for a mach based CNC, seems like they are Arduino only???
Could you venture a guess how to connect them?
Here’s a photo of the two.
Better photo of connection details
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Mactec54
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Mactec54
The device MrChips describes in post #1217 is virtually identical to Romans original post of 11 years ago with almost half a million views!!
You appear to be against any DIY approach which would virtually negate the 1200+ posts where member's here, who are mainly DIY'ers would prefer to devise solutions in the course of building their machines, for maybe nothing more than the academic experience.
Yes, there are many commercial solutions out there and if you are a MTB who intends to equip a machine shop, then the expedient way would be to buy a ready made machine.
Many of those that come to a forum like this, are home shop DIY'ers and might take pleasure in the fact that they build a machine from the ground up as a learning procedure, rather than buy an off-the-shelf M/C.
Incidentally the subject of this whole thread is based around a magnet sensitive sensor, the one you quote on ebay is an inductive variety! .:tired:
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Remember Mr Chips his machine is10 years old he just started 2 weeks ago to add limits and Home switches He started with a regular Micro Switch which would be way better than this exercise
Yes totally against using a switch like this even at a DIY level, 11 years ago I to built some of these magnetic switches and made a better job than the OP did, so know what guys should be using today
Yes It is an inductive unit, that is what they should be using, unless you have something that is better, a lot has changed in 11 years this is a very primitive approach, and is not suitable for someone even Hobby guys to use today, they want something that is going to be reliable, these used for a Hobby router are not
Mactec54
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Your right AL, I built my CNC from scratch with the help of many members just like you. My shortcoming is electronics. And I’ve got the DIY Hall Effect figured out and working thanks to you all. I ran my CNC for about twelve years without limits and homes or auto zero but in order to get Gerrys 2010 Screen set working I have to have them all. While I was figuring out the Hall Effects and wondering if it’s going to work I finished installing mechanical switches on my X and Y axis three switches each, had to order a couple more for the Y slave home and the Z home, I robbed thoes two when I added the third switch to the Y and X axis.in reading about the real value of the Hall Effect switches I will switch over to them after the 2010 screen set is running. I’m not abandoning you guys just pausing for a while. It was easier for me to do the mechanical switches just to get Gerrys SW running.
My two switches I’m short will be in Monday. So at that time I’ll be ready to get all of them adjusted and ready for the next step in the getting the 2010 screenset working. I’m gonna need help then, because the instructions assume a lot that just isn’t natural for me.
Thank you all in seeing me be successful with Hall effects.
Hager
Thanks Chips
...chicken or the egg of history
https://www.newscientist.com/questio...t-chicken-egg/
Yes some of us know what is best for the hobby user, and some just pretend to know
Please tell us the last time you used a magnetic activated proximity switch, and on what machine, and why it was used
They all have there place, the use of a magnetic activated switches are normally only used for machine safety lockout panels, pneumatics also use them on the cylinder for stroke control and of course they are used everywhere in the home security mostly magnetic activated reed switch's
11 years ago this was a great project to make your own, as proximity switches of any type where to expensive to buy for the hobby user, but today with them being so cheap anyone can use them, buy them in a sealed unit which are reliable easy to install, and can be used in any conditions
Mactec54
LOL,
In this situation it’s a functioning Chicken where the farmer (me) and the chicken (all the switches and switches and related wiring). Know what their job is to run the machine as it is now.
The the coming egg, when hatched will have all the Hall effect switches connected up and the 2010 software figured out and all the functions working. That’s the one I’m waiting for.
Meanwhile that egg is being formed and growing. So I have to keep it warm so it will hatch and be the new high tech chicken on this ranch.
I’ll be ending this thread and posting the next round of questions to keep this egg warm.
Thank you all
Hager