[Falcon69]

Hey folks

for those interested, I got 100 of the switches made up now and tested. I am awaiting for the Zener Diodes and regular diodes to come in the mail before I can start shipping these. I'll keep ya updated!

FYI, John and Roman, if you could, send me your address, and I'll send you a set of these for your help

[justCNCit]

I'd like to use this BOB

CNC4PC

with those switches.

[justCNCit]

so does anyone know of the break out board and hall effect switch combination will work? thanks

[Falcon69]

so does anyone know of the break out board and hall effect switch combination will work? thanks

The common terminal to pins 2-9 can be ground or +5vdc. The board has a jumper that allows you to select if the common terminal to pins 2-9 will carry a ground or +5vdc. So if you are connecting encoders or proximity switches, you can select it to ground. If you are connecting Geckodrives or limit switches, you can set it to be +5vdc.

Yes, it will work

[Falcon69]

Hello Folks,

Sorry for the delay. Been busy with school, and was awaiting some of the supply to still come in.

The switches are now ready to ship. I've been slowly making them. When the current supply of assembled pieces runs out, I'll start making them as the orders come in. Usually, I can ship out the same day.

Let me know if you are interested.

I have the standard single LED switches, and the Dual LED switches ready to go.

I have decided on a price of $7.50 each on the Single LED's, and $80.00 for the Dual LED Kit. I think that is pretty reasonable, considering Freetronics has theirs listed at $9.95 each (and they are bigger and uglier). Shipping is NOT included.

John, I will ship yours out Wednesday

Romanlini, if you can PM me your address, I will send you a handful of the Single LED switches for all your help.

Private Message me for more info. If my message box gets full, or if you prefer, you can email me at [email protected]

Thanks Guys!

[daniellyall]

well done i think you owe the block who started this thread a beer or two but all credit to you for running with it

[Falcon69]

well done i think you owe the block who started this thread a beer or two but all credit to you for running with it

That's why I am sending him a set

[daniellyall]

that why this form is so good when people respect over people once you have everything down for the switches whats the next project this one is a winner. sorry did not see that you sending Romanlini some switches.

[Falcon69]

Well, just got back from the post office. I shipped out the Dual LED kit to John100. He's in the UK and the shipping there was just under $15 US dollars. If I had added insurance, it would have cost $42. but the insurance only covers up to $66.00. To cover for the full value, would be $53.00 to ship. OUCH.

Just a heads up to you folks over seas. Shipping sucks.

[allengambrell]

Can you post some images of the final setup for those of us interested?

[Falcon69]

I can try,

I'm not sure on the rules as far as advertising this. But this should explain everything.

Switch Cost

I'm still playing around with the layout, and of course, the instructions, but hopefully I'll get everything dialed in soon.

Jason

[Falcon69]

My last post seems to have an error when trying to open the link.

Anyway, I've updated the pdf. I've added dimensions to the switches, for those who are interested.

Switch Letter.pdf

[Bloy2004]

Good News folks.

I got my reflow oven finished and working, .

Hi Jason,
I've been meaning to dabble in reflow procedures and since you did such a nice development of a kit using reflow, I thought you might want to elaborate on your oven. Just things like the model numbers of the toaster, PID controller, and sensor...
There were so many options mentioned in this thread that I couldn't decipher what you got together finally for your oven to do the job.

Thanks!

[Falcon69]

Check here. I used a $35 1500w black and decker toaster oven from walmart. has 4 elements. You have to remove all the guts, except for elements and convection fan. Then just put in your new stuff.

DO NOT go by the settings you can find from around the internet. They will not work. you'll need to test your oven and set-up your own settings yourself. A data logger will help.

Don't buy the cheap PID controllers of eBay, I dont think they have the ramp up and soak modes. I'll try and post a picture of mine later and the model # of the oven. I will start a new thread for it, so we can seperate that from this.

[Falcon69]

FYI, if you get the same toaster oven, I can post up the cut-out for the new front plate that you can use. It's simple, simply print it onto a sheet of sticky stuff, and stick onto a sheet of aluminum and cut it out with a scroll saw. You'll see when I post up a pic of my oven. Looks very good.

[Bloy2004]

FYI, if you get the same toaster oven, I can post up the cut-out for the new front plate that you can use. It's simple, simply print it onto a sheet of sticky stuff, and stick onto a sheet of aluminum and cut it out with a scroll saw. You'll see when I post up a pic of my oven. Looks very good.

Thanks! Any info regarding this would be helpful...
You've done so much already!

John Meissner

[allengambrell]

Do you have a exact suggestion on the cable or vendor?
All I can find is flex 6 conductor shielded 22 awg for $5.91 per foot?

[Falcon69]

Try here. It's expensive, but it's the correct wiring need for your machine.

Wire & Cable | Control Wire | IGUS CF240-02-05 24/5 PVC Data Cable, Continuous Flex Data, Shielded, Oil/Flame Resistant | B497065 - GlobalIndustrial.com

[Falcon69]

Bloy2004,

I just spent a couple hours doing the write up for the reflow oven. I posted it in the opensource forum, same place this thread is posted. As per your request.

EDIT: It was moved to the General Electronics discussion.

[Falcon69]

Ive decided to put in 2 extra Male USB ends because they are somewhat difficult to solder on, so in case you screw one up, there's two extra. I currently have 5 of the dual LED kits ready to go. On a side note, that's the last time I buy IC's off ebay. While the Hall sensors are working 10 for 10, the IC's (ULN2003A) are not. I've had problems with 6 of the mainboards so far, and have had to scrap them. . They are NOT passing the tests. But the ones that do pass the testing, are working flawlessly. IF I plan to make any more of these in the future, I'll be ordering those from Digikey or Mouser. It's worth the extra money. I see that now.

I have plenty of the single LED's ready to go as well. Those are easy to assemble and don't require too much in labor.

For those who have purchased, how are they working so far?