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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    2

    ideas for motor coupling?

    I am building my first CNC router table. This is all experimental for me so I am using low grade materials found in local hardware stores. (and yes I am brand new to the board)

    I am at a point thinking how to connect my motors to the all-thread I am using for the screws. I am trying to figure out a cheap way to connect my 1/4" motor shaft to the 1/2" all thread. I do have the all-thread coupler I am staring at but I am not sure how to get the 1/4" motor shaft connected.

    I also need to figure out how to create my bearing block. I am not a welder or I would weld a flange onto the coupler nut and use it... again, I am running out of ideas that I can buy at the hardware store.

    Any ideas are appreciated.

    It is times like this, 1 year into my part time project, that I want to break down and just buy a table... but I am going to stick with it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    6855
    You could use a piece of tubing and a clamp or machine a solid piece of alum with a bored through hole.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    80
    You can try butting the motor shaft to the threaded rod in a piece of tubing the right size for the threade rod. Slit the end that goes over the 1/4 inch shaft and cut out a small sliver( in a vshape) on two sides and clamp it on with a hose clamp. For a more permanent solution get a piece of aluminum round 7/8 diameter or so. Drill it through on center with a 1/4 inch drill bit, then drill one side halfway through with a half inch drill bit. Finally drill into the surface 90 degrees from the holes you just bored, for set screws. thread the holes and screw in setscrews. On my table I used a lovejoy coupling with two different size couplers mated to a common sized spider coupler. This gave me 1/4 inch on one side, and 1/2 inch on the other.....

    Don't get disheartened, it's gratifying to see it through, and you learn so much....Then you can find out what you like and what you need, and you'll know exactly what you want in a second router..... Good Luck! Don't hesitate to ask for help or encouragement here.... This is a great forum, with lots of folks willing to help.....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    598
    I'll second the suggestion for a piece of tubing. It works great.

    -- Chuck Knight

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    2
    Thank you all so much. I definitely can manage the tubing idea. It also gives me a reason to finally buy a thread/tap set. I am making a list for the second router which includes more professional motion, rails and couplers. (... and more $$ of course.) If I can find a way to turn this hobby into some sort of money maker, then I probably will go with the more professional route. Right now I am focused on learning.

    I must agree with the incredible people that make up this forum. I was intimidated to post due to the experience you all display. I also had some bad experience as a novice in some other places. I definitely feel like I can see this project through now.

    Thank you all very much.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by btarro
    Thank you all so much. I definitely can manage the tubing idea. It also gives me a reason to finally buy a thread/tap set. I am making a list for the second router which includes more professional motion, rails and couplers. (... and more $$ of course.) If I can find a way to turn this hobby into some sort of money maker, then I probably will go with the more professional route. Right now I am focused on learning.

    I must agree with the incredible people that make up this forum. I was intimidated to post due to the experience you all display. I also had some bad experience as a novice in some other places. I definitely feel like I can see this project through now.

    Thank you all very much.
    Glad to hear it, I'm still a newby and finished 2nd machine.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    847
    Quote Originally Posted by btarro
    I must agree with the incredible people that make up this forum.
    Yup. Great bunch of guys! Helpful even when you are asking a million dumb questions. :cheers:
    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
    Check Out My Build-Log: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6452

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by lurch
    On my table I used a lovejoy coupling with two different size couplers mated to a common sized spider coupler. This gave me 1/4 inch on one side, and 1/2 inch on the other.......
    what is a lovejoy coupler?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    80

    Lovejoy coupler??


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    1365
    Lovejoy couplers are also avalable at mcmaster as well as helical beam and a few others. I have both helical beam couplers and a few lovejoy couplers, the lovejoy couplers have a small amount of play in them whereas the helical beam couplers dont have any. The price difference is about $15 each


    Jon

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    42
    What I found to be the best, was to turn down the threaded rod (ideally in a lathe, or rough it to size in a vise with a file... and finish it with a drill & file... for more details see the link below.)

    http://www.theworkshop.ca/machining/...FoamMill11.htm

    But rather than use a solid or rigid coupler, I found that a length of 2 ply 1/4" air hose is the ticket... See Link -

    http://www.theworkshop.ca/machining/NexMill24/7/NM7.htm

    Good Luck
    Frank
    www.theworkshop.ca

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    302
    If you have a drill press with a big enough chuck, try chucking your workpiece in the drill press and clamping your drill bit to the table. This 'should' help you to get your hole closer (if not exactly) in the center of your workpiece.

    Rance

    PS: You'll need to clamp the drill bit VERTICALLY to the table, not HORIZONTALLY.

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