[Magnum164]

Well, looking through the forums there are a lot of pics of 1100s but not many 770s. So here is mine installed and already cut the test part. Now to start getting used to some of the other options.

And yes I can access the tray on the right side, I needed the machine as far over as possible to provide room on the left to roll carts and stuff in with.

[twocik]

Nice job

Make sure you've got it level or else your coolant won't cycle.

Also don't forget to add silicone in between the metal splash guard on your Y axis (front part of your table) to protect your limit switch. Everyone here recommended it to me and saved me from dealing with that headache.


Good luck and lets see some chips !

[Magnum164]

@twocik

Thanks for the tip, I will add some silicon there. As far as being level, it's not at the moment or at least it's about .045 off so I am waiting for the tools I need to get it leveled and aligned good. It was obvious from the test PCNC cut that it was out of wack big time.

[twocik]

What did you cut look like (any pics) ?

[Magnum164]

What did you cut look like (any pics) ?

I'll post some pics tonight. test cut looked fine, but was in wood. Only thing noticeable was the outline cut was not square. The rectangle was larger on one side than the other but I have been trying to make sure the PCNC test cut was not meant to be that way, which I don't think it was. Outline was probably supposed to be square. I may do a simple box outline tonight to test. Will post pics when I get home.

[Magnum164]

Here is a pic. You can see the enlarged right side cut as well as it is not as deep.

[lwoestman]

I believe that it is supposed to be non-rectangular. It was when I did it.

[Magnum164]

I believe that it is supposed to be non-rectangular. It was when I did it.

I was going to look at the code tonight and see if I could tell, but that is what I was hoping to hear. I am just not familiar enough with nc code to tell and everyone who looks at it comments on why is it not square.

But the pocket is clean, I would expect to see uneven lines inside the pocket.

[twocik]

Make sure you tighten every bolt, screw, etc.. on the machine. Check right under the spindle nose, you'll see 4 or 5 socket head screws. Make sure these are tightened down, my were loosey goosey and did clean up a few things.

[twocik]

Check your code in CNC simulator and see if it's square or post your .nc file and I'll take a look at it...

[Magnum164]

Looks like all bolts are tight. The pattern is angled on the top so looks like the cut is fine, I have included the file.

I did a lot of tests last night and about 3" above the table I am well within .0005. It's above that and it starts changing so I am thinking the machine is probably as accurate as it will get and it is how I am trying to improvise on a vertical measuring surface. I can see where the cylindrical square is helpful as it won't flex as you move higher above the mounting point.

So for now just have to wait for some material to cut and some more accurate measuring tools come in through the mail (zilch local) to really check it.

[Magnum164]

Well found some old alum and decided to just start cutting with a rougher. Part looks halfway decent, no coolant only a slight swirl mark where it grabbed a chip looks like.

[Magnum164]

ok got the first set of leveling tools in. I still have a cylindrical square and indcols on the way to test as others have recommended on the site as well.

The first pic shows what I got with the crude test setup I made about a .003 difference in the X direction and the second picture shows dead on in the Y axis.

Tramming as is the indicator barely moved.

So, I have exhausted all of the movement on my 770 deluxe stand. I have twisted the legs till I am blue without a single bit of movement on the dials. I think I actually did move it by about .0005.

What would the recommendation be? Shim between the base and the stand? or does this look like the column itself may need shimming? I will have to get some help to shim either one so need to get the right one while they are there to help.

(Note: Angle of picture is an indication of the age of the photographer).

[twocik]

I don't think adjusting the feet on the stand has anything to do with the head of the mill & tables.... It will just move your coolant around or am I wrong ?



Man I want one of those tramming indicators !!!! So much is needed after the package purchase that you really don't know until you're right smack in the middle of it. I just bought $300 in cutting tools and $200 for coolant.

Actually Enco is selling this Tram for $160 free shipping right now.

[Magnum164]

I don't think adjusting the feet on the stand has anything to do with the head of the mill & tables.... It will just move your coolant around or am I wrong ?



Man I want one of those tramming indicators !!!! So much is needed after the package purchase that you really don't know until you're right smack in the middle of it. I just bought $300 in cutting tools and $200 for coolant.

Actually Enco is selling this Tram for $160 free shipping right now.

Actually Tormach recommends adjusting the stand first. I got the adjustment down to .0015X and .000Y until a final adjustment caused both legs on the left to collapse. No more adjustment after about 3 or 4 turns they collapse again.

I managed to get back to about .002X and .001Y. My only choice now is to adjust between the feet/base. I believe at some point adjusting the stand no longer matters and you have to go for the base. but my stand is level and coolant should flow properly - I hope.


Yea, I have spent probably over $1000 in tools already. That one tool is awesome for quick checks. I will have everything else tonight (cylindrical square, indicator) that I can use to verify. But that one tool which yes I got from Enco for $160 as well, I think so far has been very helpful. the cylindrical test tonight (ups confirmed its at my house) will give me that double check for confidence. But the minute that thing starts lowering you can see one dial start to move before the other and you can tell it's not level. Anyway, it is well worth it for the fun factor

Coolant.. I have one gallon, I wasn't sure how much I would need, but at $200 I may not have enough....Oh well gotta read up on coolant, is that supposed to mixed with water at some point? For some reason I was thinking it was supposed to be a mixture.

[300sniper]

Coolant.. I have one gallon, I wasn't sure how much I would need, but at $200 I may not have enough....Oh well gotta read up on coolant, is that supposed to mixed with water at some point? For some reason I was thinking it was supposed to be a mixture.

i sure hope your coolant is a concentrate at $200 a gallon. the stuff i use, hangsterfer's s-500, mixes 1:20 with water. i think a 5 gallon bucket of it was around $100. that makes 100 gallons. i still have some left from my original purchase about 3 years ago. i will buy the same stuff when i need to purchase more.

[Don Clement]

I machine mostly aluminum and use a 10% solution of ValCool VP 650 measured using a liquid refractometer. cost is ~$100/5gal concentrate. I use about 5-10 gal concentrate per year.

Don

[twocik]

"Actually Tormach recommends adjusting the stand first. I got the adjustment down to .0015X and .000Y until a final adjustment caused both legs on the left to collapse. No more adjustment after about 3 or 4 turns they collapse again.

I managed to get back to about .002X and .001Y. My only choice now is to adjust between the feet/base. I believe at some point adjusting the stand no longer matters and you have to go for the base. but my stand is level and coolant should flow properly - I hope."





We had no choice but to add two 5 x 6" 0.5" thick pieces of wood under the front legs. Our garage is very slanted here in FL, I guess due to flooding codes... If not our coolant will just sit there and need to be pushed back down in the hole. The feet adjustment wouldn't compensate high enough to fix this issue.


Just got off the phone with Tormach and said as long as two feet are propped up like how we have it (same side), we shouldn't see a big difference. However he did recommend to use metal not wood for propping up the legs. He also said that some have adjusted the right side of the base a little higher to allow better coolant flow and didn't see any difference in finish.

I also asked about if the blocks could cause any vibration and he said they didn't test for that yet.


With that being said, I'm not seeing any reasons as far as face milling goes. Maybe just a little when climb cutting, but very little cross circles. Now vibration.... maybe, but could have been my cam settings. Testing tomorrow




"But the minute that thing starts lowering you can see one dial start to move before the other and you can tell it's not level. Anyway, it is well worth it for the fun factor"



Are you saying that the table isn't square or the indicating device ?


Not sure if this test might help you, but found that my table might be a little off. Now this could be the cheap chinese indicator, but who knows. I not making medical supplies or require that precise of measurements at the moment ..





Did you shim the base of the machine too ?

.

[Magnum164]

Are you saying that the table isn't square or the indicating device ?



Did you shim the base of the machine too ?

.

No the machine/table is off. I just ran a cylindrical square on it and I'll post the results later and if shimming worked.

Right now I have not shimmed anything yet.. Will shim between the base and stand.

[twocik]

Results ?