[Calico]

I just learn/start welding using this TIG, my TIG dosn;t have High Frequency.

the result is ... the tungsten was "eaten" fast, every touch I start it just eat the tungsten wire.

I know my skill is zero, but I think something wrong with my TIG, I think it's too small to weld the 6mm thick.
is it ?

see the attachment pleae

and help
I got this huge project waiting.
all info is in the photo, sorry my cellular photo quality just like my welding skill.

rud

[Calico]

oopsss that's my material I'm going to weld, sorry.
\
here we go

[Calico]

more
and help please ...

ruddy

[Kool Parts]

Ahhh, where to start.
By the sound of it you may have the leads hooked up wrong. The power lead to the tig torch should come from the negative -- side of the welder
Also maybe oxygen contamination in your argon flow. Push the tungsten in all the way and seal the end of the cup with your finger, The ball in the flow meter should fall to 0. If it doesn't you have a leak somewhere. And I would agree that that welder is on the small side for your skill level and the looks of your project. I would suggest a smaller project to learn on.
Gary

[motomitch1]

You will need to set it up using (AC )with High Frequency for alum.

(-DC) NO HF For steel

[Calico]

wow wait a second,
my torch is connected to Positif and the negative connected to the material I weld.

correct ? thisis what the seller said to me.

[powerr]

you connect the torch to negative and the work to the positive check out miller welds. if you look in the tech section you can download their tig hand book. i am just learning my self so i know where you are at

[Calico]

ok I got it HF for alum.
steel no need HF.

thanks

what about the polarity, did I connect it wrong ?

rud

[Kool Parts]

First off the material shown is steel, not alum. So there is no need for AC.
Second, for steel tig, the leads have to be DC- for the tig torch. DC+ for the ground.
Third you dont have HF but if you did you would use it for steel and stainless, but just to start the arc, that way you dont contaminate the tungsten.
Gary

[Calico]

my god, I'm so wrong about polarity.
how much argon flow aprroximately if I weld steel ?

ok my newbie question,
if I use welding for steel without argon, just a stick attach to the torch, do I need AC or DC ?
if it's DC the torch is connected to positif right ?

regards
ruddy

[Kool Parts]

Calico,
Here are a coulple of links that will really help out.
http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/PrinciplesSMAW.pdf
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/TIGhandbook/

Gary

[Calico]

now that's what I want...
very usefull.

thank you.

is there any video doing TIG welding ?
close up to the welding it self ?

rud

[Mortek]

For welding steel with tig. Argon flow 10 to 15 CFH (cubic feet / hour) . When stopping arc you should set post flow timer according to tungsten size and color. Tungsten should be shiney after post flow timer times out. Are you adding filler rod? The tungsten is the electrode only, like the flame in accetelene welding. ONly there to heat up the metal. the filler rod should be E70s-3 based on the steel tubing you are welding. You should use a strike block (carbon) to start your arc on so you don't put a tungsten deposit in your steel. This is nothing like stick welding.

[Calico]

Mortek,
I don't have the post flow timer on my TIG, and I don't think it's a problem.
yes I add the filler rod.
I don't understand the strike block, sine my TIG is not automaticly, so I have to "connect" the tungsten to the material for a second ot two before starting.
I don;t think we have that carbon/strike block here in indonesia.
do you have the photo of carbon block ?

I started welding for the first time yestarday, guess what...
I was wearing short pants and now my legs are become red and it's really hurt when I touch it, I wonder what medical treatment for this.
it's not that bad but it's bad

when I start welding, the result is not good of course, I meant beside my experieince, the weld is not solid, like it has a small holes and sometime it's not.

I can't find my camera...
here is my cellular camera, not good but ok,
it's harder to weld fillet position.
can you tell me what's wrong with my weld beside my skill ?

that's the first time I use argon to weld. and first time welding.

regards
ruddy

[Mortek]

the small holes are called porosity. It can be the result of several things, ie: not enough shielding gas (argon), dirty or contaminated weld (from the looks of your tubing there is a lot of rust, that will cause porosity), contaminating your filler rod by taking it out of the gas pocket before it solidifies (you must keep the molten end of your filler rod in the gas pocket at all times, it takes practice. Look for a light orange ring around your weld, that is the gas pocket) The mill scale on steel can cause problems with tig welding also. I would say your problem is the dirty metal and mill scale. Grind or sand these off and you will see an improvement.

Sounds like you just experienced arc burn, much worse than sun burn. You'll feel better in a day or two. Always cover your skin by wearing long levis and a long sleeve shirt. I have bleached a jersey shirt in one day of tig welding at 300 amps.

[Calico]

yes I agree it's the rust, that's what I tought.
but this welding is more difficult than I thought.

it dosn't looks neat, I think it's too much filler.

I must practice with clean metal.

I have question, I I want to change steel to Stainless Steel , I just change the filler right ?

regards
ruddy

[Mortek]

that's right steel use steel rod. Stainless use stainless rod. Aluminum use ac current or you can weld it with dc straight (electrode -) and use helium gas instead of argon, it is trickier though.

[tigpro]

keep welding man! you will get better in time. everyone has a hard time geting started but you have to start somewhere get some clean metal and sharpen your tungsten to a point. when you see the metal melt on both sides slide your wire to it. just a dot of wire sort of like poking it and pulling back just dont touch your tungsten with the wire.
(every time you touch the tungsten to the wire or the part you have to sharpen it again to get a good arc)

[traveler]

sounds like you are on the right track from the earlier posts. As to the polarity thing. DC current flows from the negative pole to the positive pole. The heat flows the same way as the current, so, if you hook up your system with the electrode positive (backwards) then the flow of heat and current is from the work piece to the electrode. The electrode heats up and burns up. On the other hand if the electrode is negative, then the flow of current and heat flows TO the work piece, creates a molten puddle an now your welding. This is true only with steel or stainless. Aluminum requires AC high frequency currently to weld. The high freq AC cleans the oxide that forms on the surface of Alunimun. As another helping hint. When you point your tungsten for steel or stainless finish grind the tip so the grind marks are parallel to the electrode. Think of this as the electrons looking for a place to jump off the electrode. When you grind marks are parallel they stay on to the electrode until they get to the tip. Try it both ways and I think you will see the difference. Bad grind, a fuzzy hard to direct arc- good grind, a sharp concentrated arc.

[MrHorsepower]

I agree that the rust has something to do with your porosity problem, your material looks very dirty(i.e.rust). It should be "grinder" clean for best results. Take your time and learn to do it right then you will start to figure out what you can and can't get away with. Also you will find that some parts of your body that don't normally get sun (like the inside of your elbow) are very sensitive to a tig sunburn, put on some protected clothing before you ruin the experiance for yourself.-Dave