[toddbeau]

The 2200W motor should be on 220, that's more than 18A on a 120 circuit if you have it turned up. I have 220 close but my driver box isn't all that easy so I'll get to that when I have less going on, but I'm not expecting huge changes. I really wanted all this to run on a 120V 20A circuit. For the size of this machine I think it'll be fine, I'll refine path rules so to help work around the power problems.

[treyjugson]

$700-800 for something you have to baby to keep from bogging, FORGET IT. spend the money you'd save with a 56c/vfd for a beefier z motor/gas struts to handle the weight.

[toddbeau]

mine was 600, vfd didn't meet the power requirements. At some point you have to look at what this is, a benchtop tiny mill. For what's in it I can live with one more go round........you act like you're turning the cranks yourself

[lcvette]

My biggest issue so far is if I want to take a good sized cut, the initial bogging slows the motor so much that the endmill sees a huge increase in chip load. With the Tormach tts, this is beginning to become problematic with pullout, it seems to want to happen always at this initial bog. Once its recovered, it works fine, but without that constant torque for the initial cut, its a pretty big negative in my book. I just want to share my honest opinion here.

With that said, if I had it to do again, I would have gone with the adlee driver (and still might try it to see if it helps) or gone with a inverter duty AC motor and VFD. Just my assessment.

[1hander]

been looking at the adlee stuff....it looks pretty stout...i would opt for the 1000W setup...... but its definately pricey....

im already using a 980oz motor i think it is on the z.

.for the money it seems like .a couple of gas struts woud be cheap...and go inverter duty 3800 rpm ..10:1CT 56c and vfd..then a 2 speed pulley set up and it should eat all the frame can handle...

i want the brushless so bad .... my gut is telling me to go with what is proven and works for sure you know... but the adlee videos roughing steel sound great,,,no bogging that i can here of..

[Dr.Nos]

Thought i would update my results , Trying to eliminate the spindle drop in Rpm under load , Ive changed from the C6 spindle Step / Dir 0-10v control card , To a Digispeed 05 Pwm > 0-10v control .With the C6 card my voltage output was very erratic ,about 500rpm drop from 6000rpm when tool was under load ....With the PWM control through the Digispeed 05 the output voltage is very stable (same external power supply as C6) and at most 150 rpm drop .
When i first connected everything there was a 8sec delay from pushing the RUN button till the spindle started ,.. Using a Serial cable to run 11v for the 0-10v speed control ,..wire size was far to small , after making a cable with 20awg for the 11v , it starts instantly , I'm using the Fout to index rpm ,and its with in 4 rpm at every 1000 rpm .After using the Spindle calibration ,. The best result of Lemonade from the lemons i had been sold.

Hope this is some use to someone
https://youtu.be/voND7PzDV7w

[treyjugson]

3hp, less than 1/8 doc with a small endmill and it still bogs a bit, no thanks. Glad I didn't waste my money so thanks for sharing.

[neilw20]

Put a BIG flywheel on top of spindle. The CAM program has not generated tool paths with constant load. Stopping at corners?
It is all so much poor software driving the thing.
How do the chips look under a microscope?
What is with the 11v thing. Sounds more like a bad connection. Wire gauge is not going to affect the 11v feeding the electronics.
More like a bad/open/wrongly terminated shield putting spikes into the electronics, ie, extra, spurious step pulses.

[Dr.Nos]

All Im trying to show is the improvement Using Pwm control Vs the Step Dir control , on the previous videos earlier in this Topic .
Stopping at corners ....My bad i had the box ticked Attachment 275334
Can't say i know to many people who spend what little time we have at the end of the week building Cnc machines in our garage to be spending Saturday night looking at swarf chips under a microscope (bad enough when its on ya shoes and it gets in the carpet!!) .
11v .. well 11.6v to be exact .. Digi 05 needs to have a 11-12v supply input , to use as the 0-10v speed control signal . I use a spare terminal off my Led power supply ,.. And the only thing i had changed from my test set up , was a brand new 9pin serial cable that connects between cabinet and the power supply for the spindle ( the Digi 05 is mounted inside 2200 driver case ) ... Checking an online Awg cable calculator 28awg is not rated for 12v . So making a cable with heavier cable on the 11.6 v pins fixed this problem .. Once it was fixed i didn't look any further .


"People who make no mistakes ......Make nothing "

[Fastest1]

The digispeed consumes approx 1.1 volt IIRC, so you gave it 11.6v to compensate and get a full 10v?

[Dr.Nos]

At first i was using a trim pot on the input side of the voltage , Scaling it down to 11v ,..Using a trim pot at the 0-10 v wasn't very successful tuning min max rpms.. .. In the end didn't use them , I just set spindle speeds off pulley min/max and then ran the spindle calibration .

[Barry Flannery]

Hello,

I'm wondering if anyone has experienced a problem similar to this with the 2.2kW BLDC motor and the latest controller board.
https://www.automationtechnologiesin...tor-and-driver

I am unable to run the motor in forward direction and it just makes a "clicking noise". It will run at a fixed 700rpm in reverse mode but makes a rumbling noise. It does not appear that the fault is mechanical (not 100% certain but shaft spins free by hand). It seems as though there is a phasing problem and the motor is not being driven fully synchronously or as though one of the phases is fighting another and causing a sudden "thud" as the field changes.

I have a video of it here:

What I've checked:

-Motor spins free by hand - does not appear to be a severely damaged ball bearing
-Hall effect sensors oscilloscoped and all pulsing perfect square waves as 120 degree spacing (when machine is running in reverse at 700rpm)
-I scoped the output phases with respect to ground and saw sine waves on all three outputs. There was movement when the machine was moving at 700rpm.

My motor had signs of visible damage on the corner (definitely was dropped on concrete floor from height) of the unit when it arrived but the shaft seemed fine so I did not worry about it. I am now beginning to suspect that my problem is related to the electronics.

Any help would be appreciated,

Barry

[Signal9]

I would contact the seller of the motor. Especially if you think its been dropped.

[slowhitEJ1]

Just got done reading from post 1, and there's a TON of information. So far, is there ANYONE that's happy with the results? If so, what have you done exactly to get there? I did see one video without bogging, but there seemed to be about 10 pages after that of people still having problems.

Also, I have a C10 BoB and ESS,and I'm wondering if this will work, or if I need to purchase a different BoB? Is there a best BoB to use??

Lastly, has anyone thought of using something like an arduino to get the signals back to their computer? Just curious because I know they can send/receive analog, PWM, and digital signals.

Thanks in advance

[slowhitEJ1]

So I've also read a little about the Adlee Setups, and their AM370-H.. Anyone have any experience with those? They're a little more costly, but seem to be well worth it. Thinking of picking it up over this 1100W version just based on this thread and the videos.

[Fastest1]

So I've also read a little about the Adlee Setups, and their AM370-H.. Anyone have any experience with those? They're a little more costly, but seem to be well worth it. Thinking of picking it up over this 1100W version just based on this thread and the videos.

Are you looking for more power with the Adlee or more control of the rpm?

[slowhitEJ1]

Both.. I've got a taig and just received one of Dalecnc's iso15 spindles. Since they have HTD pulleys, I'd have to swap out pulleys on every speed change, so ice like the bldc for that reason, and more power would be nice too

[phomann]

So I've also read a little about the Adlee Setups, and their AM370-H.. Anyone have any experience with those? They're a little more costly, but seem to be well worth it. Thinking of picking it up over this 1100W version just based on this thread and the videos.

Hi,

I've recently put an Adlee 750W motor/driver on mt TM20VL mill. It's 750W and 6000rpm. A huge improvement over the stock motor. I'm yet to have the motor bog down. It will pull the TTS tool out first.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...ml#post1789726

Cheers,

Peter

[slowhitEJ1]

Hi,

I've recently put an Adlee 750W motor/driver on mt TM20VL mill. It's 750W and 6000rpm. A huge improvement over the stock motor. I'm yet to have the motor bog down. It will pull the TTS tool out first.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...ml#post1789726

Cheers,

Peter

Awesome. I think I'm definately ordering the 370 soon.

[phomann]

Why not order the 750W one rather than the 370W motor?