[jeffrey001]

Thanks BPR for the info.

Just sent email to them to see what they have to say about the new model.

Will keep you informed if getting something I can share.

Jeff

[SWATH]

Ok I got most of my tooling ordered here is what I ended up with:

Glacern:
6" premium vise 2
ER40 fractional collet set 3

Maritool
ER40 R8 collet chuck 10
drill chuck 1
R8 facemill holder 1
3" facemill 1
ER40 wrench 1

End mills
0.125 TIALN 4fl ballmill carbide .5" 2
0.125 TIALN 4fl carbide .5" loc 2
0.25 TIALN 4fl ballmill carbide .75" 1
0.25 TIALN 4fl carbide .75" loc 1
0.375 TIALN 4fl carbide 1" loc 1
0.5 TIALN carbide 4fl rougher 1.25" 1
0.5 TIALN carbide 4fl 1" 1
0.5 TIALN carbide 4fl 3" 1
.25 60deg chamfer mill 4fl 1

drills
#47 carbide drill .0785 2fl 1
#28 carbide drill 1.405 2fl 1
#15 carbide drill .18 2fl 1
#4 counter sink .125-.3125 carbide

key cutter
5/16x.938 1
.5 45deg chamfer cutter 8fl HSS 1
square carbide inserts 6

ENCO
52 pc 5/8 clamp set


Now I'm thinking about indicators. I'm really looking into the Haimer 3d universal (anyone know where to get one of these?) or something similar and then perhaps the Wildhorse 3D probe/tool offset probe.

Software will consist of RhinoCAM Pro, Mach3, and G-Wizard.

[SWATH]

Ok I finally found a place I could order a Haimer and ended up getting the 3D Universal analog. I thought the dial would be better when indicating vises or something where you could actually see the dial move instead of watching numbers jump, and it was considerably cheaper but with the same accuracy. I ordered it from transconn.com and didn't have to go through a credit check just to buy something like another company I tried. They actually had a barely used demo model that I got for dirt cheap.

I also got a touch screen monitor to hook up to it when it arrives. Here are the last things on the list I need to get:

1. Mach 3 Full license
2. GWizard (although the demo I have seems quite buggy)
3. Tool offset probe/height setter and touch probe
4. stock material

On the note of stock material I was going to mess around with wood at first just to get the hang of things but would move to cheap 6061 aluminum just to fine tune my code then start cutting 4130 or 4140 HT steel alloy. Does anybody have a favorite place to order stock material from? I was thinking onlinemetals.com but I would like to find a cheaper place.

Also if anyone knows of a good electronic tool height setter and possibly a touch probe let me know!

[mcphill]

[QUOTE=SWATH;870851 Does anybody have a favorite place to order stock material from? [/QUOTE]

I just got a 4' stick of 4"x6" 6061 from Speedy Metals Online Industrial Metal Supply . Took about a week before they shipped, but was the lowest price I could find after a bit of online searching...

[mcphill]

Is this the one you got?

TAC Rockford - Zero Master Analog

How much did you pay, if I may ask?

[SWATH]

Is this the one you got?

TAC Rockford - Zero Master Analog

How much did you pay, if I may ask?

No that one is metric only. I got this one:
Haimer GmbH - 3D Sensor Universal

The Universal is the same one but in inches and a little bulkier. The retail prices are $350 for the analog and $685 for the digital.

I got a demo model for $260

[SWATH]

So far I got most things on the previous list in and I am impressed with everything. I also just got the Haimer 3D Universal in last night and it is really cool.

I'm looking for a tool offset indicator and was originally going to go with an electronic touch probe but am thinking about this for the price:

Pro Touch Off Gage

It seems like it would be a great one to have and for only $60. The only thing that sort of bothers me about it is that the touch cap where the tool contacts is Aluminum instead of hardened steel or carbide. Would this be a problem getting an accurate measurement especially over time if you carbide tools start to wear the top surface?

Also does the Mikini bed need to be trammed? If so I was thinking that their tram gauge would also be useful:
Pro Tram System

I'm thinking I might be able to use one of these two things as a horizontal indicator to adjust the Haimer for spindle concentricity as it recommends.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Better to have a little wear in the indicator, than to be chipping your expensive carbide tools....

Regards,
Ray L.

[mechie]

I facemilled a 6" round x 1/2" thick piece of tool steel bolted to the table. A quick check of the perimeter using a Mititoyo digital caliper said the two sides were parallel within .000035" if that is to be believed. I don't think the Mikini has a way to tram it, but you're not going to get better than that if you could.

[BPR]

So far I got most things on the previous list in and I am impressed with everything. I also just got the Haimer 3D Universal in last night and it is really cool.

I'm looking for a tool offset indicator and was originally going to go with an electronic touch probe but am thinking about this for the price:

Pro Touch Off Gage

It seems like it would be a great one to have and for only $60. The only thing that sort of bothers me about it is that the touch cap where the tool contacts is Aluminum instead of hardened steel or carbide. Would this be a problem getting an accurate measurement especially over time if you carbide tools start to wear the top surface?

Also does the Mikini bed need to be trammed? If so I was thinking that their tram gauge would also be useful:
Pro Tram System

I'm thinking I might be able to use one of these two things as a horizontal indicator to adjust the Haimer for spindle concentricity as it recommends.

If the aluminum top gets worn or damaged, they sell a replacement for only $5. In fact the reason its made of anodized aluminum is so it won't damage your sharp tool edges! I am amazed at the prices of Edge instruments, where most tools or instruments for this profession are usually the opposite.

[dirtridn2010]

So far I got most things on the previous list in and I am impressed with everything. I also just got the Haimer 3D Universal in last night and it is really cool.

I'm looking for a tool offset indicator and was originally going to go with an electronic touch probe but am thinking about this for the price:

Pro Touch Off Gage

It seems like it would be a great one to have and for only $60. The only thing that sort of bothers me about it is that the touch cap where the tool contacts is Aluminum instead of hardened steel or carbide. Would this be a problem getting an accurate measurement especially over time if you carbide tools start to wear the top surface?

Also does the Mikini bed need to be trammed? If so I was thinking that their tram gauge would also be useful:
Pro Tram System

I'm thinking I might be able to use one of these two things as a horizontal indicator to adjust the Haimer for spindle concentricity as it recommends.

Hi Guys. I gotta ask. What is "trammed" it is not a term i'm familiar with. please enlighten me. I'm in Australia, It's not a term we seem to use. Regards Peter (dirtridn2010).:wave:

[jeffrey001]

Tramming a milling is to be sure that the spindle or Z axis is square or perpendicular with the table.


Look at this video:


[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfANyiS8Hs4"]YouTube - BRIDGEPORT MILL Tramming or Indicating the Head to Zero[/nomedia]

Jeff

[dirtridn2010]

Tramming a milling is to be sure that the spindle or Z axis is square or perpendicular with the table.


Look at this video:


YouTube - BRIDGEPORT MILL Tramming or Indicating the Head to Zero

Jeff

Thats great. Thanks jeff, I'm very familiar with the practice, just not the term. Regards Peter (dirtridn2010)

[SWATH]

I got a question guys. How is this thing wired? I'm doing the electrical wiring for where it is going to be right now so this has been something I was wondering about. I know I need to run a 220v line to it but how is the computer and monitor powered? By an exterior wall outlet or does it receive power from the main 220v line? Does it have its own on-board outlets? If not how many wall outlets should I put nearby and do they need to be behind it or off to a side? What wire did you guys run to it, 2 wire or 3 wire, and what gauge? Does anyone know the wattage?

[mcphill]

I got mine without the computer. It had no external wiring done at all. It needed a 3-wire 220 outlet - ground and two phase lines. I ran a 4 wire line, including a neutral. With the lines, I am able to use one of the phase lines and the unused neutral to create a 110V outlet in the chassis. I use this outlet to power my computer and monitor, all with only a single wire connecting the machine to the wall outlet.

[SWATH]

That helps a lot Mcphil, thanks for the speedy response. I'm a little confused though, I emailed Phil asking him what style plug the machine needs and he said it doesn't use a plug, it is instead hardwired to an on-board 20amp service panel. Is this not the case?

[mcphill]

Well, it doesn't come with a plug, or any wire. You have to power it yourself. I asked the same question when mine was on the way ; )

I chose to install a plug and a 220V socket in the wall, so I can unplug it if I want to. It doesn't "have" to have a plug. It also only requires a 3-wire AC connection. It is left up to the end user, basically, to choose how to wire it.

Also, I feel the schematic is wrong, as it appears to indicate a hot/neutral/ground connection. This is possible in an industrial setting with a 220V hot, but in a residential situation, it is two 110V hot sources that are out of phase creating the 220V...

[dirtridn2010]

Well, it doesn't come with a plug, or any wire. You have to power it yourself. I asked the same question when mine was on the way ; )

I chose to install a plug and a 220V socket in the wall, so I can unplug it if I want to. It doesn't "have" to have a plug. It also only requires a 3-wire AC connection. It is left up to the end user, basically, to choose how to wire it.

Also, I feel the schematic is wrong, as it appears to indicate a hot/neutral/ground connection. This is possible in an industrial setting with a 220V hot, but in a residential situation, it is two 110V hot sources that are out of phase creating the 220V...

Are there any CNCzone users that have a Mikini 1610L in Australia.
I am trying to see a machine or two and talk to people in Australia that have a Mikini. I can be contacted on [email protected]

[mcphill]

I am sure Phil would be happy to hook you up if he has sent some there - have you asked him?

[dirtridn2010]

I am sure Phil would be happy to hook you up if he has sent some there - have you asked him?

I have actually, i'm just waiting for the info.