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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    1290

    laminating MDF

    I plan on making a small 12x12x2 router from mostly MDF. I'm thinking about laminating .75 thickness pieces to .5 thickness pieces.
    I have a larger Aluminum CNC which I can use to cut out the parts on and use alignment holes drilled into the MDF when I cut them, to help keep the parts aligned.
    Should I just use normal wood glue to laminate the pieces together? Is there anything I should be watching for when laminating MDF?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1237
    I was looking at laminating with Formica the Walmart 10mm poster boards for a small one. The Formica is cheap if you buy broken pieces. A 6' piece is under $20 even if you buy new. A Formica/MDF sandwich should be light and stiff. If you get a chunk of the faux black granite you could brag you have a (faux) epoxy granite router.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    55
    I'm thinking about laminating .75 thickness pieces to .5 thickness pieces
    Wouldnt .75 be thicker then .5?

    Not sure on your sizing, but anyhow. Using a good quality MDF glue will work great. We have a Yellow MDF specific glue here the I use, super strong.

    Make sure you get even coverage and hold tightly. Sand the faces before glueing.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    1290
    Just for weight reasons I'm using the .5 stuff instead of doubling up on the .75 stuff.
    but... I tried sourcing 1/2 mdf today and it seems 5/8 is more common than 1/2.
    The small size of the router I probably do not need to laminate to a thicker size but I just want to be sure.
    Here is a dxf of what I'm thinking of.
    http://www.carlsoncomputers.com/newrouter.zip

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Glue two pieces of 5/8" together. A vacuum press would be the best way, but a lot of clamps would also work. Just use regular would glue, and clamp it up fast. And make sure it's flat.

    I'd glue them together first, and cut the parts out of the 1-1/4" material.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    55
    Good point Gerry, Definatly glue before cutting.

    I have read that 2 x 1/2" pieces laminated together would actually be stronger and less likely to flex then a single 1" piece of timber, has anyone found this or tried testing it?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    8082
    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    Glue two pieces of 5/8" together. A vacuum press would be the best way, but a lot of clamps would also work. Just use regular would glue, and clamp it up fast. And make sure it's flat.

    I'd glue them together first, and cut the parts out of the 1-1/4" material.
    I get pretty good results by stacking 4" solid concrete blocks on it. Two layers at times.
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1290
    I planned to laminating the parts after they were cut out. But I did incorporate alignment holes so I should be ok.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1290
    This is the only bit that I have to cut out my designs.
    http://www.freudtools.com/p-63-up-spiral.aspx
    ger21, what speed and feed rate should I be using for best results?
    I have a Porter Cable router with speed control, but my router is feed limited by the 1/2-10 single start screws.
    Thanks for the help!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Start with 10,000 rpm and 150ipm. If you can go that fast.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1290
    no I'm able to go that fast, how about a speed for 60ipm.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    I don't think you can go lower than 10K rpm, so just use that and cut at 60ipm.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1290
    You are probably correct 10k getting lower than 10k and maintain torque might be an issue. I have the CNC4PC speed control so I will give it a try.
    Thanks for the help.

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