[guerd87]

Hi everyone. Im nearly at the stage in my build to get the router and mounts ready. I know that the Hitachi and Porter Cables are favored but I was thinking of using my current router I have here. Its a Ryobi 1200w Plunge router - could save me a few hundred $$$'s if I dont need to buy a new one.

http://www.ryobi.com.au/Products/Pow...ERT241200.aspx

Has anyone used or seen one of these on a CNC? You can strip them down a bit but not round like most others. I have collets for 6.35 & 12.7mm, will I be able to find many bits using this size? (Edit: just realised thats exactly 1/2 and 1/4, so should be pretty easy)

It weighs a fair bit, my steppers should be ok though (650oz/in on a 63v Powersupply) What do the stripped down Hitachi's weigh? the specs say in its stock form it is 3.8 kg (ryobi that is)

Noise is another issue, I wouldnt want to be standing around it for a long period of time without earmuffs on, are the Hitachi's quiet or is everyone doing the same thing?

Cheers and thanks for any replies,
John

[CarveOne]

My Hitachi M12VC weighs 6 pounds (2.72 kilograms), without the base. I have seen a noise spec. of 79.5 dB for it. No wood router is going to be very quiet because of the nature of the device but this is a lot better than 90dB or worse. I haven't run the Hitachi yet, but the 1.5hp Ryobi router I currently have on my machine is as noisy as any router I have heard.

You can use the non-round routers in two ways. Bolt them to a horizontal plate on your Z axis assembly, or make a clamp that fits their particular shape.

To make a template, apply a layer of box tape to the router where you want to have a clamp plate located. Apply a coat or two of carnuba car wax to the tape where the clamp plate will attach, and buff the wax. Cut a hole in a piece of 1/4" birch plywood (or similar) to the rough shape of the router body so that there is about 1/8" gap around the hole when the plate is placed over the router in the position that you want it to be located. Support the plate securely with the router inverted on a table top. Now mix up some Bondo or Featherlite automotive body filler and backfill the gap between the plate and the waxed tape that is around the router body. Let the filler harden. Remove the plate, sand the excess filler flush with the plate. Now you have an accurate template to use for marking the material that you will use to make your permanent router clamp plate(s). Just be sure that the router can be easily removed from the plates. You don't want them to become a permanent part of the router. Remove the tape from the router.

Your motors should be fine. It depends on the gantry weight and drive system.

CarveOne

[guerd87]

Thanks for that

I will try making the bracket next week after I finish working all weekend. I think this router is around 1.6hp, hopefully it will work out ok. What model Ryobi is your current one?

I am building a JGRO as a testing and learning machine, after JGRO is complete I want to start on either a Mechmate/Joes 4x4/8 - Thats why my JGRO is using 650oz Nema34's running 63v ^_^

Great idea about using the wax and bondo

John

[CarveOne]

Thanks for that

I will try making the bracket next week after I finish working all weekend. I think this router is around 1.6hp, hopefully it will work out ok. What model Ryobi is your current one?

I am building a JGRO as a testing and learning machine, after JGRO is complete I want to start on either a Mechmate/Joes 4x4/8 - Thats why my JGRO is using 650oz Nema34's running 63v ^_^

Great idea about using the wax and bondo

John

It's like the ZRR163K model on the Ryobi factory reconditioned site. I bought mine at a traveling tool sale a few years ago. Can't argue with the $39.99 usd price.

The Bondo/box tape method is a good way to get an accurate tracing of just about anything that can't be easily traced in other ways. Inside or outside curves.

CarveOne