[snakebit95]

Anybody removed the entire spindle / quill assembly from a Boss 5 rigid ram? I am contemplating sending the spindle out for a taper regrind and new bearings. Would like to hear any key points / watch-outs before I start. If somebody has an exploded diagram or cut-away of the head, that would be most helpful too.

Thanks,
Wayne

[PrecisionSpindl]

A spindle rebuild cost can be given if you forward a copy of the spindle diagram and parts list. (The spindle taper would be reworked along with any other surface that needs bringing back to OEM specs and new bearings installed.)

Precision Spindle & Accessories Inc.

www.precisionspindleinc.com tel. 519 671 3911
[email protected] fax. 519 652 5994

[snakebit95]

A spindle rebuild cost can be given if you forward a copy of the spindle diagram and parts list. (The spindle taper would be reworked along with any other surface that needs bringing back to OEM specs and new bearings installed.)

Precision Spindle & Accessories Inc.

www.precisionspindleinc.com tel. 519 671 3911
[email protected] fax. 519 652 5994

Thanks, but I already have a place that is going to do the regrind / rebuild for a good price.

[TOTALLYRC]

My understanding is that all the rigid rams come apart in a similar fashion.
I would just remove the spindle and leave the quill in place.
This is how it was done on my BTC-1. My spindle wouldn't fall out so I had to use the block of wood and the hammer(shudder).

Remove the set screw that is on the back side of the bearing retainer and unscrew. Be very careful as the bearing retainer is cast iron. You must not hit it with a hammer(don't ask how I know).
The proper tool is a hook pin(pin hook) spanner?? I used 2 dowel pins that fit the retainer holes and a large pair of channel locks to grab the pins.
The next time I buy the right tool or I make something better.

Once the bearing retainer is unscrewed the spindle may drop so be careful.
I put a block of wood and some rags to catch the spindle in case it fell out.
I also cranked the knee up so the drop distance would be minimal.

If the spindle does not drop out you will need to use a block of wood and a hammer to kick it the rest of the way out. You could also rig a way to push it out as well. You need to put the block of wood on top of the spindle and hit downwards. Never even tap the bearing retainer!!!!!!!

On my machine I had to remove the stuff that does the tool holder removal so that the end of the spindle was exposed.

One thing to remember is that the bearing retainer is supposed to seat on the bearings outer race to hold them in place. It will not bottom out on the end of the quill. I believe that the factory spec ~.003 clearance between the quill and the bearing retainer when it is tight.


Mike

[gus]

rather than hammers, if you still have a vise on the machine carefully line up the back jaw with the spindle nose and grasp it carefully with the vise and simply lower the knee. actually the weight of a Kurt vise set on the table is probably enough

[snakebit95]

My understanding is that all the rigid rams come apart in a similar fashion.
I would just remove the spindle and leave the quill in place.
This is how it was done on my BTC-1. My spindle wouldn't fall out so I had to use the block of wood and the hammer(shudder).

Remove the set screw that is on the back side of the bearing retainer and unscrew. Be very careful as the bearing retainer is cast iron. You must not hit it with a hammer(don't ask how I know).
The proper tool is a hook pin(pin hook) spanner?? I used 2 dowel pins that fit the retainer holes and a large pair of channel locks to grab the pins.
The next time I buy the right tool or I make something better.

Once the bearing retainer is unscrewed the spindle may drop so be careful.
I put a block of wood and some rags to catch the spindle in case it fell out.
I also cranked the knee up so the drop distance would be minimal.

If the spindle does not drop out you will need to use a block of wood and a hammer to kick it the rest of the way out. You could also rig a way to push it out as well. You need to put the block of wood on top of the spindle and hit downwards. Never even tap the bearing retainer!!!!!!!

On my machine I had to remove the stuff that does the tool holder removal so that the end of the spindle was exposed.

One thing to remember is that the bearing retainer is supposed to seat on the bearings outer race to hold them in place. It will not bottom out on the end of the quill. I believe that the factory spec ~.003 clearance between the quill and the bearing retainer when it is tight.


Mike

Thanks for the explanation Mike. The only reason I was going to remove the spindle / quill as an assembly is that Wells-Index requested that the spindle / quill be returned as an assembly to properly rebuild / regrind the taper. I figured it was going to be quite a bit of work removing the quill since I have had the top off the machine a few times and it looks pretty complicated in Z-Axis area. Wish I had a cut-away drawing to minimize the hardships.

[snakebit95]

rather than hammers, if you still have a vise on the machine carefully line up the back jaw with the spindle nose and grasp it carefully with the vise and simply lower the knee. actually the weight of a Kurt vise set on the table is probably enough

Gus,
That is a great idea. When I swapped the Z-axis belt years ago, that is exactly what I did. I used the table to support the spindle.

[gus]

IIRC the ballscrew is 4 bolts on the top of the quill. nuthin else there, but not so easy to get to at least one of the bolts

[TOTALLYRC]

rather than hammers, if you still have a vise on the machine carefully line up the back jaw with the spindle nose and grasp it carefully with the vise and simply lower the knee. actually the weight of a Kurt vise set on the table is probably enough

Hi Gus,
on my(your) machine the hammers were most definitely needed.
The weight of the vise would not of budged it although the knee pulling it down may have done it. It was really tight. Since the gripper died and I was installing a replacement spindle I was not too worried about the spindle bearings. When I make a new gripper for the old spindle I will most certainly put new bearings in it.
I did use the knee to reinstall it as the new one was a tight fit as well.

Mike

[jacampb2]

Did you ever get this pulled? I've done it and it's not to bad a job, I'll post up instructions later when I can do it from a real computer and not my phone.

Later,
Jason

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

[snakebit95]

Did you ever get this pulled? I've done it and it's not to bad a job, I'll post up instructions later when I can do it from a real computer and not my phone.

Later,
Jason

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Not yet. I am waiting on a break between work. I have been keeping it pretty busy. Anything you have would be much appreciated. Thanks!!

[jacampb2]

This is from memory, so it may not be 100% correct, but, I got mine apart before I had the manuals for the machine, and it is not a bad job. If something I say doesn't make sense, spend some time looking at it and you will get it.

First, remove the quill wiper and metal ring from the bottom of the quill. I believe it is four socket head screws. Block the spindle nose/quill end up on the table to keep it from falling. Remove the front plate on the head-- see picture bellow. Remove the limit and home switches. Remove the guide bar (for lack of a better term) red arrow in the picture, two socket head cap screws. Remove the flat plate on top of the quill, yellow arrow, IIRC, this plate keeps the quill from rotating by engaging the guide bar and if memory serves, it also trips the reed switches. I believe it is 4 socket head screws in from the top, it may be five. It is a PITA to reach the back ones, but you can turn the quill in the bore and there is just enough room to remove them.

And-- I am pretty sure that that is it. Lower the table and the quill, spindle will come with it. I did have the top of the head apart while I was doing this, but I don't recall any thing up in the drive train that would need removed. I had to pull my quill because the bore was scored from lack of oil. I don't really think that it was any more difficult than just dropping the spindle.



Later,
Jason

[snakebit95]

Outstanding!! I was really dreading this job because I thought I was going to need to pull the top of the head off. This made my day!!

Thanks again,
Wayne

[jacampb2]

Outstanding!! I was really dreading this job because I thought I was going to need to pull the top of the head off. This made my day!!

Thanks again,
Wayne

Good deal, one thing I forgot to mention, was the lower the quill is in the bore when you start, the easier it is going to be to get those top screws. My machine was not in running condition, so I just manually ran the quill down by removing the stepper and spinning the ball nut by hand via the belt.

Later,
Jason