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  1. #673
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    Jan 2005
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    1695
    Quote Originally Posted by pudzian View Post
    I bought a 24v 15A but while it doesn't arrive I'm using the 12v rail from an ATX PSU to test the steppers. Also, since I cannot use the steppers in bipolar parallel mode because it would draw 4.2A each I'm using them in bipolar series mode.
    Bipolar parallel will not draw 4.2A. It would draw whatever your drive is set to.

    Bipolar series with a 24v supply is a capital crime. If your motor inductance is greater than 1 mH, don't use it unless you enjoy watching your machine stall at low speeds.

  2. #674
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    Nov 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by H500 View Post
    Bipolar parallel will not draw 4.2A. It would draw whatever your drive is set to.

    Bipolar series with a 24v supply is a capital crime. If your motor inductance is greater than 1 mH, don't use it unless you enjoy watching your machine stall at low speeds.

    You are absolutely right. I have no idea why I wrote that since I knew that that is probably the main funtion of the driver: chopping current.

    About the bipolar series, I wired them that way because I was expecting to configure the driver to give the exact 2.1A that the steppers need using that configuration but since I can't (I have no idea of which resistors to replace to provide this axact current value and therefor I'm using them with a 1.5A configuration) I'm going to set them up to bipolar parallel and set the driver to the maximum 3A (3.5 peak).

  3. #675
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    Jan 2013
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    21
    did you see a big improvement on the board when using the 74hc? i replaced my caps with 100pf and grounded my heatsink screws and noticed a HUGE difference in noise.I also removed the fan plug and wired it directly to the 12v psu. i removed the resistsors but steppers didnt like it at all.
    I have some 74hc chips but i also have a new board and its a little different so i havent added the chip yet because i cant tell which lines to add the wires to.
    I have the 3 axis board and apparently everything is different except for the cap mod.
    I would also like to jump the isolators but there is some confusion on which way to jump them on the 3 axis boards(diagonally or straight up) so if anyone could clarify that would be great.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 014.jpg  

  4. #676
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    Jun 2011
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    i have a few questions for the guys running these drivers.
    i purchased(traded) for a 3 axis and 4 axis board. the dip switches i was told were set to properly run my motors(1-4 on, 5-6 off) and i was told not to mess with them. i am running a spectralight/sherline machine with the original round motors(see pic). i plan on running 24v 15a psu. but i believe the driver i got with the machines was only 12v(burned up driver when recieved) is this going to damage these motors? i was told no but i am just checking my source. i had to replace two can type capacitors on the 3 axis, one was leaking and another was installed backwards and bulged. i have not done any modifications apart from adding on leads to the input plug. what should i do to get this running correctly and reliably? i am currently getting ready to run with the 3 axis board.
    pics of both boards when i received them and a pic of one of my mills is attached.
    thanks.
    Kevin.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails driver boards.jpg   mill 1.jpg   mill 2.jpg  

  5. #677
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpen047 View Post
    did you see a big improvement on the board when using the 74hc? i replaced my caps with 100pf and grounded my heatsink screws and noticed a HUGE difference in noise.I also removed the fan plug and wired it directly to the 12v psu. i removed the resistsors but steppers didnt like it at all.
    I have some 74hc chips but i also have a new board and its a little different so i havent added the chip yet because i cant tell which lines to add the wires to.
    I have the 3 axis board and apparently everything is different except for the cap mod.
    I would also like to jump the isolators but there is some confusion on which way to jump them on the 3 axis boards(diagonally or straight up) so if anyone could clarify that would be great.
    The 100pf mod DID make a huge difference. Before that I could only run the steppers up to 240mm/m and after that I can use them with twice the previous velocity.

    I also tried to remove the optoinsolators but using a jumper wire between the 2nd and 4th pin of each one of them didn't improve the results. I still need to remove the current resistor but I'm not sure of which resistor is because I have several 10k resistors on the board.

    My steppers are rated for 4.2A but right now they are starving because this driver only gives them 3.0 at most. Anyway, at 12v I can use them at 600mm/m without problems. Not much I know, but still a big improvement. :-)

  6. #678
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    Jan 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by pudzian View Post
    The 100pf mod DID make a huge difference. Before that I could only run the steppers up to 240mm/m and after that I can use them with twice the previous velocity.

    I also tried to remove the optoinsolators but using a jumper wire between the 2nd and 4th pin of each one of them didn't improve the results. I still need to remove the current resistor but I'm not sure of which resistor is because I have several 10k resistors on the board.

    My steppers are rated for 4.2A but right now they are starving because this driver only gives them 3.0 at most. Anyway, at 12v I can use them at 600mm/m without problems. Not much I know, but still a big improvement. :-)
    Now we need to find out how to incorporate the chip mod and see what happens. im stuck at 15.2 in/m or 386mm/m before i start losing steps. but that my be the power supply and i have current set pretty low.

  7. #679
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    Jan 2013
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    21
    Ok just finished installing the 74HC14 and what an amazing difference!!! im at 24 ipm 1/16 with no missed steps! would like to know which way to jump the isos though on the 3 axis board.
    Thanks everyone!

  8. #680
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    Jan 2013
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    21
    Ok just finished installing the 74HC14 and what an amazing difference!!! im at 24 ipm 1/16 with no missed steps! would like to know which way to jump the isos though on the 3 axis board.
    Thanks everyone!

  9. #681
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    Jun 2011
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    Re: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

    i have a few questions for the guys running these drivers.
    i purchased(traded) for a 3 axis and 4 axis board. the dip switches i was told were set to properly run my motors(1-4 on, 5-6 off) and i was told not to mess with them. i am running a spectralight/sherline machine with the original round motors(see pic). i plan on running 24v 15a psu. but i believe the driver i got with the machines was only 12v(burned up driver when recieved) is this going to damage these motors? i was told no but i am just checking my source. i had to replace two can type capacitors on the 3 axis, one was leaking and another was installed backwards and bulged. i have not done any modifications apart from adding on leads to the input plug. what should i do to get this running correctly and reliably? i am currently getting ready to run with the 3 axis board.
    pics of both boards when i received them and a pic of one of my mills is attached.
    thanks.


    Kevin.
    Nsr customs.

  10. #682
    Registered
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    16
    After reading this thread and others across the web...

    I have the 5 axis board. My mission was to test a 4 channel cnc with a 5th axis for rotary. This seemed to be dream board tb6560.

    This is the series of challenges so far with this thing.
    Got one board and hooked it up to a 34 volt 10 amp power supply.
    It ran great on X A and Z. The Y channel slaved with A did not turn. A would turn but was jumpy. And the channels would leak. Running the Z would leak to the X.
    Tried a different computer and same thing. Went back to the original computer and powered up. Jogged the x and it turned then suddenly BAM!
    The B channel blew out a chunk of meat on the bottom. B channel was not activated in mach. Looked at the board and sure enough there was a very tiny hair line solder bridge along with gobs of solder flux all over.

    Contacted Mega supply from ebay and they gave me a refund on returning the board while they sent me a new one. I am happy.

    The 2nd board. Hooked it up with a 24V 15 A power supply and tried it on the original computer.

    Tried an old P4 XP machine with a configurable parallel port and X Y Z and A channels work. Not test on the B channel. However it is not smooth running. Also the mach has to have the spindle activated to get the motors to lock. When using the stop button in mach it also deactivates to spindle and unlocks the motors. I have no desire to research Mach to find some spindle setting to bypass this.

    I have a Gecko g540 that runs one cnc mill just fine. I also have a hobby cnc board running the other mill. So I have all I need in boards. If someone does not have the money to get a gecko G540 or other like system I would suggest getting the Hobbycnc board. It is low priced yet works well. It has run my mill for about 2 years without a single complaint.

    So far the second board sent to me by Mega supply runs. But it is not something I would use. Likewise I do not have the time or motivation to make any mods. I am sure some one could obtain this board from me handle the mods and and be happy experimenting with it. If you want it pls PM me with a reasonable offer with shipping and it is yours as is. I will send the hook up tabs, the parallel cable and the cd with the basic settings manual.

  11. #683
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    Oct 2011
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    27
    Hi guys,

    after messing with the blue version of the board, and getting it to work pretty well after adding the buffer, etc., I found this guy who hacked the newest improved version of the board, the red board :

    Contrôleur pas à pas Toshiba TB6560 et pilotage micropas: Pertes de pas et problèmes de fréquence d'horloge - Civade.com

    (use google translate if you can not read french, or post your question and I will answer as best as I can)
    It does work quite well after the capacitors are replaced as he describes. A much easier fix to do, and a great bargain, I think. If you are looking to buy that board, it is the red board version "V".

  12. #684
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    Jan 2011
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    8
    I am sorry I don't follow this site closely and didn't see your question. You probably have it figured out by now but you are on the right track. I also removed the 74HC14's and I jumpered from the input of the 74HC14's to the output of the opto isolators. The are three isolators wired backwards that are detailed in other posts that allso need to be corrected. Mine has not missed a lick since I fixed it.

Page 57 of 74 747555657585967

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