[hoss2006]

Was it windows 7 32bit?
There's lots of support over here.
Set Search Parameters
Hoss

[kopper36]

Was it windows 7 32bit?
There's lots of support over here.
Set Search Parameters
Hoss

Thanks Hoss. I did do some reading there last night but did not find anything specific to the issue. I will read and search some more. Prolly just stick with the XP though.

[1hander]

well hoss

my luck finally ran out, i was putting the ac bearings back into the spindle... i used 4 spacers under the bearing so the retainer would screw all the way back in...
me and my kid spent 30 minutes per bearing with a brass punch set and ball peen hammer ..slowly drivig them in...my bearings fit really tight...the old ones had to be BEAT OUT...
they were super tight going on to the spindle and the lower was really tight going into the quill housing... but we gto the acs back in there and they were super smooth..i was thrilled...then i put the upper retainer and tightened it slowly to get the center race to go a bit further and get some preload...and darnet if we didnt run out of thread..with .0045 slack left in the spindle...

i notied that the upper retainer does not have a lip or groove to press down onto the upper ac's center race only..not sure if its just mine...or if i overlooked a spacer somewhere

at any rate...i needed one more 1mm spacer under the lower ac bearing...and from what i can tell i need a spacer under the upper retainer so that when tightened it press only on the center section for preload..

i knew there was no way the spindle was coming back out without destroying the bearings because of how tight they were...and sure as heck the lower one blew apart as i expected and the upper was ruined from hitting the top of the spindle....not a big deal as ive ordered more..hard part will be getting that lower race off the spindle.

[hoss2006]

Why didn't you just add an extra 25x36x1mm shim on top of the upper bearing?
The lower bearing can be a press fit though it's best if it's no worse than a tight slip fit for just such a scenario.
The upper bearing must be a slip fit so that preload can be applied by the upper retainer, if it's tight, lightly sand the spindle so the bearing slips on/off by hand.
Hoss

[1hander]

i stayed up late last night after i found the other bag of shims ...LOL.... and just for grins.. i put the whole thing back together to see if a shim on top would make a difference...but it didnt ..it seems the upper bearings inner and outer race was bottomed out..on both the shaft and on the inside of the quill...so i was basically pressing it up against that small shoulder on the spindle,,,there was no more room for the bearing to go and further down on the spindle...,,,strange...

the bottom bearing was really tight going on the spindle and the quill...but i figure a bit tight is better than loose...and its just a bit more work getting in with punch... the top one is a snug slip fit into the quill but really tight going onto the spindle..
i had already used some sandpaper with my son helping ..im guessing it just needs a bit more work so the bearing will slip onto the spindle... ill do that before the new bearings show up... next time will be a done deal... the upper bearing is till smooth but i bought another to be safe.

[1hander]

you were absolutely right hoss..after looking closer the bearing still had a good 3mm before bottoming out on the shoulder...i was just too scared to hit it any harder and damage the bearing,,,but i made progress today..i put a collet in the spindle with an endmill in it and tightenedf the drawbar then put the end of the drawbar in my 1/2 inch drill...and used the trigger lock to keep it spinning with the drill in my lap and the end of the spindle supported and spnnig on a cardboard box..used some 500 grit and sanded it till the bearing presed on by hand with a good bit of pressure...and could still be pulled off by hand with a bit of muscle,,,

i should have sanded it in the first place,,,thanks for the tip...
next time it should be a breeze to get the bearings in...

[techsavvy34]

Can anyone that's installed a one-shot lube system on the g0704 tell me which size metering valves they used? I'm guessing you want to use smaller ones on the x and y and bigger ones for the z axis. I just don't know what sizes to use out of 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.

[hoss2006]

I didn't use a fixed size on mine, IIRC they were adjustable something like these.
Push in Style Flow Speed Control Fitting 1 4 OD 1 8 NPT | eBay
Hoss

[hoss2006]

The vacuum chuck has been awesome, made several parts so far with it and much less chatter from the tools what with the plate supported so well underneath now.
Think I might make a bigger master chuck with some 1/4 holes for removable alignment pins like I had on my 20x12 tooling plate on the X2, made doing multiple parts a snap and ensured squareness to the axis'.
Hoss

[davidlee64]

Hoss2006, you need to quit giving me more ideas ! :cheers:

[hoss2006]

This 8x12 vac chuck with locating pin holes should do nicely.
Hoss

[gd.marsh]

Techsavvy34,
I used metering valves on my ZX45 & after changing things around a few times I wound up with 3's across the board .. I'm using a manual pump oiler & give the machine about 3-4 pumps during warmup .. & then one pump every 30min or so .. my machine seems happy with that .. If you are using push-on fittings make sure your tubing is cut SQUARELY at the ends & make sure it's pushed all the way into the fittings. With high pressure flood coolant you will wind up with oil in your coolant but I have let my mill sit for months without any smell or strange things growing in the tank. I use OakFlow DSS 700 coolant & I couldn't be happier. I've tried several but this is the best so far. ZERO rust issues since I've began using this stuff. It leaves a very light film (not sticky) on everything that I think really helps with rust issues. I wash my entire machine & enclosure down with a garden hose connected to the coolant tank at the end of the day. Push all the chips into the chip auger & I'm done.
gd.marsh

[1hander]

thanks again for the tip hoss...got the bearings in today...and got it all put back together...

but i did have to sand the upper bearing shoulder some more, i guess the specs were a bit diff from one bearing the the other...but its super smooth ..i actually used oone of my old RC static shaft balancers and was just able to ge the the spindle on it to do a minotr static balance...drilled out 3 little 1/8 divits on the same side as the collet screw guide...two above one under...at .0035 deep ..but first i measureed the depth of the drawbar hole in the spindle at the bottom and drilled an exact depth 5.5mm hole 180 deg from that one... it balanced statically pretty well...i used a dremel to vibrate the balance stand to look for the heavy side...then just did it over and over sgain to sneak up on it..

i know its uneeded ...but even with a basic balance like this..i should be able to run faster..now i need longer 40mm bolts for the Z ball mount..then its time for electronics...

[hoss2006]

Sounds good, balancing should help seeing how they only intended these for 2250 rpm typically.
Hoss

[1hander]

i gotta question hoss...

so i have the gibs adjusted for .00025 of lash in the x and y.... i clamped a piece of square aluminum stock...i made a 1 inch depth/.045 climbing cut with a 4 flute 1/4 inch end mill...2000 rpm ...there was no chatter of any kind...
the only thing i noticed is that when i was turning the x handwheel...it wanted to keep pulling itself along all by itself....

then i did a 1/4 inch deep full width cut and used the z wheel...this time instead of cutting straight the y axis moved by itself and the cut was noot straight....do the gibs need to be alot tighter to stop this from happening or is it something that will be kept from happening by the stepper motors.

i also noticed that the z axis after i got everything back on...even with the gib properly tightened if i just gave the handwheel a slap, the z would keep spinning and lowering by itself..

is there a way to adjust the gibs later according to amps drawn by the motors

i know these are super newb questions....sorry

rick

[lcvette]

Once you're cnc'd the motors won't allow the axis's to pull like that. For manual machining, most people conventional cut to avoid the climbing effect.

If your non moving axis is shifting on it own during cuts, you could tighten the Gibbs up to avoid it out lock it down to ensure the cut is straight.

[1hander]

cool i was hoping that would be the answer...i was scared crapless thinking i did something wrong....
thanks all tyou guys for tolerating me and my questions,,,and for helping me along..
im doing lots of research to keep the newby questions low...
.i checked the runout on the spindle and the needle was swinging between 0 and .00019...im guessing thats good..

[hoss2006]

i gotta question hoss...

so i have the gibs adjusted for .00025 of lash in the x and y.... i clamped a piece of square aluminum stock...i made a 1 inch depth/.045 climbing cut with a 4 flute 1/4 inch end mill...2000 rpm ...there was no chatter of any kind...
the only thing i noticed is that when i was turning the x handwheel...it wanted to keep pulling itself along all by itself....

then i did a 1/4 inch deep full width cut and used the z wheel...this time instead of cutting straight the y axis moved by itself and the cut was noot straight....do the gibs need to be alot tighter to stop this from happening or is it something that will be kept from happening by the stepper motors.

i also noticed that the z axis after i got everything back on...even with the gib properly tightened if i just gave the handwheel a slap, the z would keep spinning and lowering by itself..

is there a way to adjust the gibs later according to amps drawn by the motors

i know these are super newb questions....sorry

rick

For manual milling it's a good habit to use the gib locks on the axis' that aren't making the cut, conventional or climb.
Vibration can cause the other axis to move especially if you have some backlash.
If making a cut with climb milling it helps to ride the brake, slightly tighten the gib lock on that axis.
Hoss

[1hander]

thanks hoss

i was just doing what i know on the manual mill... but i guess that answers my own question, this aint gonna be a manual mill lol

[diyengineer]

I need to modify my gib lock handles. I have the dro scales slightly in the way.