[hoss2006]

Am surprised you need a double female parallel cable to connect computer to breakout board. Those are a little difficult to find these days.

The necessary cables needed are available at places we buy our mill electronics like Cnc4pc.com or Automation Tech.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Hoss, what is your opinion of using limit switches for homing? I'm defiantly going to install some for use as limit switches. I was looking at these and these on fleabay.

Those appear decent quality, hard to tell how large they would be to mount on the 0704.
I use one switch per axis to act as home and limit.
Projects
Hoss

[109jb]

Am surprised you need a double female parallel cable to connect computer to breakout board. Those are a little difficult to find these days.

If using a C10 breakout board then you need a male to male parallel cable.

[aarggh]

Hoss, what is your opinion of using limit switches for homing? I'm defiantly going to install some for use as limit switches. I was looking at these and these on fleabay.

I have a number of those same switches, and they are really good quality I've found. Much better than the cheaper Chinese copy ones. They are quite bulky though.

cheers, Ian

[Ripthorn]

I've got a question for those who have done the CNC conversion. I bought Hoss's plans last week and have fabricated the standoffs and the motor mounting plates. For the Y axis spacer block, I don't have a boring head, but noticed that the tolerances for mounting the bearings is very tight. Do I have to have a boring head to do this? My funds are just about exhausted and I have everything else I need to get my X and Y axes CNC'd, so I would like to find an alternative that uses what I have. Unfortunately, I don't have a 4 jaw chuck for my lathe, just the 3 jaw. Any thoughts from the more experienced folk? Thanks!

[hoss2006]

I've got a question for those who have done the CNC conversion. I bought Hoss's plans last week and have fabricated the standoffs and the motor mounting plates. For the Y axis spacer block, I don't have a boring head, but noticed that the tolerances for mounting the bearings is very tight. Do I have to have a boring head to do this? My funds are just about exhausted and I have everything else I need to get my X and Y axes CNC'd, so I would like to find an alternative that uses what I have. Unfortunately, I don't have a 4 jaw chuck for my lathe, just the 3 jaw. Any thoughts from the more experienced folk? Thanks!

Do you have a piece of round stock that you could bore out on the lathe with your 3-jaw then machine the flat sides on the mill?
Hoss

[lcvette]

You could make a boring head relatively easy, do you have a boring bar for your Lathe? You could also chuck up a piece of aluminum and face it down in the Lathe and fasten the piece to the aluminum after finding the drill hole center. Just don't try turning it super high RPM.. Lol. Might be a problem. The other thing you could do is bore the hole in a piece of round stock and then machine the part out of the round stock with the hole already bored in it. Lots of creative ways to do it especially if you have a Lathe, just need to have the determination to make it happen.. I always say it is pretty amazing what can be accomplished with a mill and a Lathe even if they are only manually operated.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[Ripthorn]

I don't have a piece of round stock that has that large of a diameter. By my rough calculations, that would need to be about 3" diameter, would it not? However, I did realize that I have a very small Sherline rotary table. I might be able to zero that up, mount the piece in it, and mill with an end mill. I don't know if the rotary table is big enough, however. I suppose I could make a crude boring head just for this one job (after it's CNC'd, i can just do canned cycles). I'm thinking a drill rod shaft with a shoulder turned on it. The cross member would mount via a screw. The cross member would have a hold drilled with a set screw for holding the boring bar, and a slot where it connects to the shaft with a fine pitch screw for fine adjustment of hole size. I'll have to test it in some scrap to see if it would work.

I guess I really just need to play around a little bit...We'll see what I can do.

[hoss2006]

As long as you can hold down in 2 places a rotary table would work too.
Could always make a larger tooling plate to mount on your rotary to support larger pieces.
Hoss

[Ripthorn]

Just as an update in case anyone cares. I was able to get the spacer machined using my tiny rotary table. Everything just fit. The first side I miscalculated and got it a couple though larger than tolerance. The second side was bang on.

[lcvette]

Nice!! Way to be creative and get the job done!!! Looks like it will work well for you.. !!

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[hoss2006]

Just as an update in case anyone cares. I was able to get the spacer machined using my tiny rotary table. Everything just fit. The first side I miscalculated and got it a couple though larger than tolerance. The second side was bang on.

Nice work, figured the rotary would do the trick.
Hoss

[jbar]

Turn switch 4 to off, it sets it to half current mode when the motor is idle, it won't get as hot.
Hoss

Can you guys share where you have all the dip switches set?
Also what output voltage from the power supply?
Also, I'm copying a post that says there are two methods to hookup the C10 breakout board to the KL-5056d drivers. Which are you using?
OK.... I found this wiring diagram on CNC4PC's site which is completely different then what i posted above from Keling's site... which is right and which should i be using? extremely confused now.....

http://cnc4pc.com/Tech_Docs/1_C10R10.PDF

it appears that on CNC4PC's diagram, they have the following listed for their wiring:

from 5056 driver:

DIR- to external 5v power Supply GRD
DIR+ to C10 Board Pin 3
PUL- to external 5v power Supply GRD
PUL+ to C10 Board Pin 2


Keling's diagram states:

from 5056D driver:

DIR- to C10 Board Pin 3
DIR+ to comm between pin 2 and 3 on C10 board
PUL- to C10 Board Pin 2
PUL+ to comm between pin 2 and 3 on C10 board

[hoss2006]

Read #6 here it will help a bit.
FAQs
Hoss

[jbar]

[QUOTE=hoss2006;1817122]Read #6 here it will help a bit.
FAQs
Hoss[/QUOT

Do you have your power supply voltage cranked down below 48v or are you running 48v?
Are your pins 2 & 3 connected to the dir - and pul - or the dir + and pul + ?? I'm guessing negative since you have the COM set to 5V...?

[hoss2006]

For the digital driver I had it turned down to 45V.
Either way will work depending on what you set the COM to
COM = 5v, Dir & Pul -
COM = GND, Dir & Pul +.

Kelings pdf uses a 5v COM.
http://www.kelinginc.net/KL-5056WithC10.pdf
Hoss

[jbar]

For the digital driver I had it turned down to 45V.
Either way will work depending on what you set the COM to
COM = 5v, Dir & Pul -
COM = GND, Dir & Pul +.

Kelings pdf uses a 5v COM.
http://www.kelinginc.net/KL-5056WithC10.pdf
Hoss

I used the Keiling method of hooking up to the Dir - and Pul - and setting the 5volt/ground switch on my C10 board to 5 volts. Works. Still need to set individual motor speed in the Mach 3 software - any tips on that would be appreciated. Next Im going to work on the motor mounts per your plans. Thanks for the help.

[hoss2006]

I used the Keiling method of hooking up to the Dir - and Pul - and setting the 5volt/ground switch on my C10 board to 5 volts. Works. Still need to set individual motor speed in the Mach 3 software - any tips on that would be appreciated. Next Im going to work on the motor mounts per your plans. Thanks for the help.

keling has a pdf on that too.
http://www.kelinginc.net/Mach3setup.pdf
you'll use 8128 in motor tuning though since these are metric ballscrews with a pitch of 5.08.
Hoss

[jbar]

keling has a pdf on that too.
http://www.kelinginc.net/Mach3setup.pdf
you'll use 8128 in motor tuning though since these are metric ballscrews with a pitch of 5.08.
Hoss

Reference the pdf above, Engine Configuration Ports & Pins table: Question, what are column 4 (Dir Low Active) and column 5 (Step Low active) for? I see they are checked with green checks.

I see you reference 'ballscrews with a picth of 5.08' That must be withPhase 2 or Phase 3. I was going to start with Phase 1 and then use the CNC's mill to make parts for Phase 3. But, if I don't mind spending the extry money now, ......should I consider jumping straight to Phase 3 and skipping phase 1 & phase 2 ??? I read your webpage - G0704 DVDROM and it seems like it might be possible. Couldn't I mill my Phase 3 parts before I take the mill apart?

[hoss2006]

You might want to spend some time and read thru the manual, it will explain everything you might have questions about.
Product Manuals - Newfangled Solutions
The video tutorials are also a great help.
ArtSoft USA - Video Tutorials
If you plan to go to ballscrews eventually and have the money now it makes sense to go ahead in that direction.
Making the phase 3 parts are easier as with most parts if it's already cnced but they can be made manually.
You can email me if you need more detailed info. [email protected]
Hoss