[CFLBob]

In case someone someday should stumble across this looking for the answer, Automation Technologies helped me resolve it.

Both SW4 and SW6 need to be "up". In the documentation I got from their web site, I see no mention of SW6 at all.

[Signal9]

FAQs

Here's the setting I use on my 5056D from Hoss's website.

[dimitrislamia]

Hello everyone...Hoss great job m8, thank you for all the info!

I have a similar mill but a different brand, i have realy hard time to unscrew the spindle cups, i have unscrew the hard one (top) but everything i came up to(some mild steel plate with a hole to spindle to pass through and 2 pins from an allen key that fit's ok) have failed, is there a specific key for the job or it is a service tool only?

[KriegKuts]

Does anyone run their mill without the upper spindle bearing carrier installed? Its the part with the 2 gears and 2 large bearings on it. I installed new bearings in my spindle and with the bearing carrier installed, it was running hot and had bad vibrations. With the carrier removed and just the spline attached to the belt drive pulley, it is running super smooth and cool up to 5400 rpm. I am going to keep it installed that way unless anyone has any reason not to.

[109jb]

Eventually the unsupported splined shaft will fatigue and break.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[hoss2006]

What he said, those bearings are there for a reason and it is more necessary with a belt drive as lateral tension is constantly being applied from the belt tension. Upgrade those bearings if they are running hot at 5400. Replacements good to 7800 listed here.
G0704 Belt Drive DVDROM
Hoss

[KriegKuts]

The problem is that these are the replacement bearings. I turned down the gears on the shaft and I guess I didnt turn concentric to the spline/bore because i got quite a bit of wobble. I will try again.

Worst case, I will install the upper most bearing and build a spacer for the spindle shaft to engage with.

Ultimately, If I get a few years out of it, I will just buy the $90 spindle if it does indeed snap.

[CFLBob]

I just built up my 4th axis using the RDX table that you used, Hoss, the 1990-0015 from Wholesale Tool.
Attachment 362334
I thought the 7/16" Tee nuts and bolts from the mill would fit it, but they're too big. I've been comparing dimensions of the slots to tables of standard Tee slot designs online and they don't seem to match anything. Do standard 3/8 clamping kits work on this?

Noticed I can't fit a hardware-store thickness 3/8" nut in the slot, although the slot is plenty wide enough for a 3/8 bolt to fit through it - .430. On the other hand, a 5/16 hex nut fits in the slot just fine. Anybody use a square 5/16 nut in something like this?

[hoss2006]

You could always mill your own custom fit t-nuts, been so long since I messed with that that I don't recall what I used.
Hoss

[CFLBob]

You could always mill your own custom fit t-nuts, been so long since I messed with that that I don't recall what I used.
Hoss

Roger that. I was just hoping someone would chime in with "I have that table - a 3/8 set works fine", or I need a Metric set, or something.

I see some square 5/16 nuts that are .547 to .562 across the flats and the slot is 0.68, so those ought to be fine. The slot is .43 wide, so they won't fall out, and a 5/16 bolt has tons of clearance.

I just re-watched your video where you made an adapter plate to mount a large 4-jaw on the table as the main (only?) way to hold work, and that's a good idea. I may end up there, but I'd like some way to hold work down to get started.

[phomann]

I just built up my 4th axis using the RDX table that you used, Hoss, the 1990-0015 from Wholesale Tool.
Attachment 362334
I thought the 7/16" Tee nuts and bolts from the mill would fit it, but they're too big. I've been comparing dimensions of the slots to tables of standard Tee slot designs online and they don't seem to match anything. Do standard 3/8 clamping kits work on this?

Noticed I can't fit a hardware-store thickness 3/8" nut in the slot, although the slot is plenty wide enough for a 3/8 bolt to fit through it - .430. On the other hand, a 5/16 hex nut fits in the slot just fine. Anybody use a square 5/16 nut in something like this?

Hi Bob,

These are the nuts I made for the TM20VL mill. I believe they are the same size as the Grizzly.

TM20VL Mill T-Nuts

Cheers,

Peter

[CFLBob]

Thanks, Peter. Nicely done.

[DonKes]

I used a square nut on my 0704, but I don't remember what size. It was rather large.

I chucked the nuts in the lathe and turned then down until they fit in the bottom of the slot.

Don

[CFLBob]

I used a square nut on my 0704, but I don't remember what size. It was rather large.

I chucked the nuts in the lathe and turned then down until they fit in the bottom of the slot.

Don

I found a "hardware store" 3/8-16 nut was too thick, but a good width to use in the slot. I could shave them back on the lathe pretty easily so they fit. The easier way is that a 3/8 bolt head slides in there with plenty of room to spare and is really a good size.

I end up with studs sticking up instead of a Tee nut in the slot. I don't think there's anything bad about that.


Bob

[DonKes]

I found a "hardware store" 3/8-16 nut was too thick, but a good width to use in the slot. I could shave them back on the lathe pretty easily so they fit. The easier way is that a 3/8 bolt head slides in there with plenty of room to spare and is really a good size.

I end up with studs sticking up instead of a Tee nut in the slot. I don't think there's anything bad about that.


Bob

Exactly what I did.

Don

[Stigoe]

Anyone had trouble getting the spindle bearings off? I have a Weiss WMD25LV and no matter what I try, I can't manage to separate the spindle from the spindle carrier. I've put the retainer cap back on and even if I hit it with a sledgehammer, it won't budge. It's limited how much force I'm able to hit it with since I'm also protecting it with a piece of wood and I'm holding the wood at the same time as I try to hit it... In addition, my spindle and bearing carrier has a hole, like for a wedge, so is there any chance that the spindle could be two parts screwed together?
Attachment 363052

[hoss2006]

Have you removed the retainers from both top and bottom? If you are replacing the bearings there isn't any need to be protective of the bearings.
Hoss

[Stigoe]

Have you removed the retainers from both top and bottom? If you are replacing the bearings there isn't any need to be protective of the bearings.
Hoss

Are you talking about the two internal "nuts" which needed a pin wrench to be removed, top one being locked with two screws and drawings for a spanner to loosen it in your DVD? If so, then of course. :-) If not, no idea which retainers you are talking about.

[hoss2006]

Are you talking about the two internal "nuts" which needed a pin wrench to be removed, top one being locked with two screws and drawings for a spanner to loosen it in your DVD? If so, then of course. :-) If not, no idea which retainers you are talking about.

Yes that one at the top and the big one at the bottom.
Hoss

[Stigoe]

Yes, they are both removed and I can see straight onto the bearings. I can't see anything that should prevent the bearings from coming out, but they are still stuck. The spindle is still rotating without any noticeable binding. I guess my bearings are more of a press-fit than slip-fit...