[hoss2006]

Most likely, mine came out pretty easily but have seen where others have had to press them out, particularly the upper bearing.
Hoss

[photomankc]

Anyone had trouble getting the spindle bearings off? I have a Weiss WMD25LV and no matter what I try, I can't manage to separate the spindle from the spindle carrier. I've put the retainer cap back on and even if I hit it with a sledgehammer, it won't budge. It's limited how much force I'm able to hit it with since I'm also protecting it with a piece of wood and I'm holding the wood at the same time as I try to hit it... In addition, my spindle and bearing carrier has a hole, like for a wedge, so is there any chance that the spindle could be two parts screwed together?
Attachment 363052

I had a PM25 and yes, that bottom bearing set was a bear to remove for me. I damaged the bearing getting it out and had to replace it with new. Worked out well though as my spindle ran cooler with the new bearing. Had to do the whole freeze the shaft/heat the bearing to get it back on too. Mucho fun-o. I stuck with tapered rollers on the lower spindle and they have been great.

[Stigoe]

I put the spindle back together with the old bearings and I'll just have to see how they behave with higher speeds. If they overheat, I'll just have to see if I can find a workshop with a press.

I couldn't find any speed rating on my bearings. They're LYC 32005.

[photomankc]

Yeah do that. I think if I had just eased the pre-load a bit and just run good grease, I could have run the stock bearings for a LONG time. I took some care when setting up the new bearings to keep the pre-load as light as possible while still being solid and I had no heating issues after break in. Even running 5300 RPM for hours will not result in much more than a slightly warm head. Before 3000RPM would make it sizzle and the spindle was too hot to hold onto for very long.

[Signal9]

A couple hundred message in, I know Hoss show's how to change the ball nut using cardboard tube.

Here's another option if you have a 3D Printer.

https://youtu.be/e8wQgoEML68

[atalon]

Can someone point me toward how to speed up the Z axis? I finally got back around to rewiring it to bipolar parallel and adjusted the top motor mount so it doesn't stick during movement. It is a bit slow for my tastes though and certain the one in the videos goes faster.

It is the nema 34 906oz with the appropriate driver.

[Fastest1]

Can someone point me toward how to speed up the Z axis? I finally got back around to rewiring it to bipolar parallel and adjusted the top motor mount so it doesn't stick during movement. It is a bit slow for my tastes though and certain the one in the videos goes faster.

It is the nema 34 906oz with the appropriate driver.

Are you using Mach3? If so look under motor tuning.

[atalon]

Are you using Mach3? If so look under motor tuning.

Ah thanks, I must have turned it down while having trouble with it. Been a year or more since I messed with it last. Then I just need need to setup the backlash compensation and I should have a good start.

[atalon]

still getting stopping and buzzing when going up on the Z axis even at 40 ipm. What are you guys using for steps, ipm, and accel?

Well I should say I am still in phase 1 with the stock screws.

Also I just remembered I should be able to run the "set steps per unit" a few times to get that set better.

[Fastest1]

Turn your accel down by half and work your way up.

[hoss2006]

still getting stopping and buzzing when going up on the Z axis even at 40 ipm. What are you guys using for steps, ipm, and accel?

Well I should say I am still in phase 1 with the stock screws.

Also I just remembered I should be able to run the "set steps per unit" a few times to get that set better.

With stock screws you aren't going to get very fast rapids 50ipm was all I got with a 2:1 belt drive. Gotta love those low friction ballscrews. ;-)
Set accel quite low to give it more ramp up time to speed, make sure you're giving the dovetails plenty of oil.
Hoss

[atalon]

With stock screws you aren't going to get very fast rapids 50ipm was all I got with a 2:1 belt drive. Gotta love those low friction ballscrews. ;-)
Set accel quite low to give it more ramp up time to speed, make sure you're giving the dovetails plenty of oil.
Hoss

AH, thanks for the reply. I just need to get it running good enough to get the Z axis screw upgraded then. Already have the ball screws and bearings.

[hoss2006]

Getting some use out of the old g0704 motor, using it to make a small wind turbine to charge a 12v battery when I move out to the Alaskan bush lol. Blades are cut from a 4" pvc pipe.
Hoss

[skyguynca]

I am converting my Z axis to linear guide rails. I am leaving the X and Y axis as dovetail.
However my question is about the stepper motor and driver.

From the begining I have been using a KL23H2100-50-4B and I was using the KL 6050 driver with a 57vdc power supply I made.
My best rapids before the Y extension and treadmill motor upgrage was 200 IPM

When I did the Y extension, and the ATC/Powerdraw bar it went down to 100 IPM

Since I was doing the linear rail upgrade for the Z axis I also upgraded the driver to the 8060D, and a 80vdc switching powersupply I purchased.

Yet I am still only getting 120 IPM rapid for the Z axis.

Why so slow? you were getting 260 to 290 with the 48vdc power supply and the 6050 driver.

Any ideas?

[hoss2006]

Could be your pc, I tried upgrading mine once and the rapids went to crap, put the old pc back on and the rapids went back to fast. You might think about using a smoothstepper if you aren't now.
Hoss

[skyguynca]

My pc is an older one, I am running Vista. If I lay the Z axis flat, I can rapid about 200 IPM, but standing up I am at 120 IPM. Any faster than 150 IPM I have hardly any torque, when raising the head I can reach out and put my hand on top of the head and stop it with light to moderate force. At 120 IPM even with heavy force I can not stop the head from raising. I was thinking of using some balance weights to offset the head weight, but then I loose that weight for cutting into material.

I was hoping with the increase in volts and current I would get better performance in Z but none is noticeable. I was thinking about getting a NEMA 34 970 oz stepper but with bigger shafts I will have to remake not only the mount but new couplings and bearings.

Thanks
David

[trottrr50]

Hoss, I am using your "heavy duty digital package" so for the z axis I am using the KL-8070D Digital Stepper Driver and the KL34H295-43-8A NEMA 34 STEPPER MOTOR 906 oz-in. In the KL-8070D manual there is a discussion of 8 wire motors (i.e. the KL34H295-43-8A) having the option of hooking the motor up on either series or parallel configuration. It states that the series connection would be used in applications where a higher torque at lower speeds is needed and the parallel configuration n would offer a higher torque at higher speeds. I am thinking that I really want higher torque at lower speeds.

I also seem to remember that you tested a configuration using one og the nema34 motors in one of your videos but now I can’t find the video.

Which hookup would you recommend?

[skrubol]

What voltage power supply do you have?
The biggest reason for wiring an 8-wire motor in series is if your driver doesn't have the current to drive it in parallel. That driver can run up to 7A, and the motor only needs 6.1A in parallel, so sticking with parallel is probably your best bet. Also the torque charts on the automationtechnologies website show the motor being stronger across the range in parallel when run from 48v.

[trottrr50]

What voltage power supply do you have?
The biggest reason for wiring an 8-wire motor in series is if your driver doesn't have the current to drive it in parallel. That driver can run up to 7A, and the motor only needs 6.1A in parallel, so sticking with parallel is probably your best bet. Also the torque charts on the automationtechnologies website show the motor being stronger across the range in parallel when run from 48v.

I am going to run this machine with the KL-600-48 48V/12.5A Power Supply running at 48v. I did not look at the torque curves. I agree they make it fairly obvious that parallel is the way to go. Thanks for your suggestion skrubol.

steve

[skyguynca]

Has anyone had problems with corrosion in the limit switch wires? I have tried several different coolants but after a few months of running I start getting false triggers from the limit switches. The switches themselves are sealed units, but when I check the wire connection at the switches there is corrosion, and cut the wire back and find one to two inches of corrosion inside the shielding and the wires are crap. I tried different automotive sealers and marine sealants also different coolants. Cool Mist seems to take the longest to cause enough corrosion to be a problem.

What is everyone else using to seal your soldered wires at the limit switches?

David M.
San Jose CA