Well, that isn't good. 8020 Inc Standard T Nut Profile 15 S 8900 x 36 N was easy to center punch and drill.... but tapping... eh... crap.
Well, that isn't good. 8020 Inc Standard T Nut Profile 15 S 8900 x 36 N was easy to center punch and drill.... but tapping... eh... crap.
Maybe some dry ice, a ball-peen hammer, and some focused rage will get that out...
Hate when that happens!
grind one side flat.. get a goood centre punch layout out on it
get a1/8 bit and larger (high quality cobolt drills) and drill babie ....
drill ...it out... cobolt drills bit is your only way.... to drill thew it use lots of lub, and use several drill bit size one by one till u drill thur it. rest will crumble away.
unless you can grab the back side with viice grips and heat it with torch? and unscrew it?
It looks like you might have leaned it to far over when tapping. Usually what happens from over torquing is the tap breaks right at the hole opening. Try grabbing with a set of pliers and twisting back and forth.
Are you using some kind of tapping lubrication? Part looks a little dry.
Make sure you drilled a hole for steel and not aluminum. You want 50% thread http://www.nolansupply.com/tapdrillchart.htm
Just a little teaser but I have done over 300 holes now with no problems on the same tap.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XLGCt5UQGM"]YouTube- Easy Tapping Method[/nomedia]
What about hacksawing a slot in the end and using a screwdriver to get it out? Heating the bar will expand the "hole"
I love deadlines- I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by.
If you have enough threads exposed on the bottom side. spin a nut on it and very carefully tack it in place, set the welder as low and "cold" as possible. Should be able to turn it right out.
Hope that helps ya
Mike
Sounds like a good idea, but I've never had luck with that...
You could try to drill with carbide, but you need a very rigid machine to do that. If you can't drill it, try to shatter what remains with a punch and hammer, then extract the bits with pliers.
Every broken tap is different....
Paul
That welding idea is super clever.
Rob
You don't have any real problems. Grind it off from both sides and then use a small grinding point (even a dremel tool) will work to grind the web out. The rest will fall out or be easily picked out. A good carbide drill would more than likely drill it out but if you break it off you just have more to grind out.
I did about the same thing a few weeks ago with the last hole in a Z plate.
I ground it flat and tried a drill bit but all failed. I ended up clamping it to the router table and using a 1/8" carbide EM in a drilling peck operation. Slow but it worked fine.
No one near you that does spark eroding?
looks like you have enough out the bottom to grab with vise grips and back it up. No?
Grab the stub with vise grips and work it out. If that fails, try a tap extractor.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MT4NO=91718302
I say we leave it there and keep talking about it...
A little bit of follow up here... been delayed due to starting a new job, buying a new home, being lazy in general....
I got the tap out without much issue. I popped on some safety glasses and gave a few careful taps with a hammer that caused most of the tap to shatter. I was then able to clear out the hole with a small punch I had.
My friend that has been helping me in the past with this ongoing project happen to have a hand tapper sitting around. With that we were able to get all the holes tapped without issue. A few minor misalignment issues were handled and BEHOLD!!