[Nsomnia]

I have a 7x12 from Princess Auto (harbor freight)

It has the new style board for the 350w motor
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...040&category=5

I took it all apart and put it all back together and it was running fine. I removed the chuck guard safety switch and simply wired the leads back together to complete the circuit. I then realized I forgot to connect a ground so I took it back apart (plugged in of course :withstupi ) In the process the two safety switch wires touched a ground and shorted (twice). The leads connect the the 2 screw terminals beside eachther in the top right of the board.

When i got my ground attached it would not run and the fault light would not light up either. WHen I touch the safety wires and then touch a ground I feel a strong tingle still. I checked and replaced the fuse. I checked all motor and power cord connections as well as the grounds.

Following LMS's guide I tested all the components. It listed that the 4PDT switch should only have continuity between a few posts. It had continuity between ALL or nearly all terminals. So I replaced the switch. Still nothing.

I will test all components again and post updates but does anyone have any ideas or tests to do to isolate the problem? I really dont want to buy a new board as Im out of work for a month and that will kill 200 bucks out of my 1100 dollar this monthly 'free spending' money.

For example is there anyway to connect the motor without the f/o/r switch, emergency switch, fuse etc to test where the problem is?

Thank you.

[Nsomnia]

The LMS manual says the pot should have 3-5k ohms on the outside terminals I read no continuity between them so maybe the pot is fried. Howver the outer terminals to the center indicate smooth movement.

The mosfets all read the same numbers (although not to specs listed at LMS) also alot of components on the board have no continuity eg. resisters, transistors(?) and LEDS. Maybe i should jhust buy a new one and forget this confusing electric stuff (nuts)

[knudsen]

Welcome to the zone. Last week I slept a total of 12 hrs between Sunday and Friday.

Sorry I can't help with troubleshooting, short of a few generic comments. You can't really measure continuity of in-circuit components, as there are parallel paths and you will get unknown results. Most components are fairly durable in-circuit, but handling or measuring them with an ohm meter could damage them, especially so with FETs and CMOS.

Shorting out the wires probably damaged components on the board; not likely at all to damage passive off-board components such as pots, switches, etc., with the exception of the fuse, which you eliminated as suspect.

There is/was a fellow that repairs the boards or sells refurbs, so you don't need to wait. You might find info on that at mini-lathe.com or the yahoo groups... can't recall which. I know he's on the groups. If you can't find it, I can look into it maybe tonight.

Lastly, this may be just an opportunity to upgrade to a treadmill motor. Grab a throw away treadmill from the alley and use the motor, circuits and pot. Often these can be found behind the house if the chubby couple that is out on the porch drinking beer. I've not done this myself yet, maybe others have some insight, or google it.

See if the doc can give you some triazadone. Pretty good, better that others and you can take every night. Slow to wake up, but once up, it's way better than no sleep.

Good luck!

[stephenrc]

A place to get the controllers repaired in the USA:
http://www.repaircontrol.com

[Nsomnia]

Thanks for the help guys.

I ended up buying a new board.

The wiring diagram that LMS has shows for a six position switch, i have a twelve position switch. I assume thats because K5 and K6 are bridged in the diagram, and go to the F/O/R switch on my lathe.
When I replaced my switch with a new one thinking that was the problem I was very careful to transfer the wiring over to the new switch.

http://littlemachineshop.com/referen...iagram2513.pdf

However! When I went to wire the new board I realized something. In the wiring diagram K1 should go to pole 3 and K2 Should go to pole 6. When pole six is connected to pole three in the switch the circuit is completed.

My question thus is, should it not matter that k1 and k2 are switched, at worse causing the motor to run backwards or could this be the reason the origonal board did not work.

I dont want to plug it in until I know, but I dont want to switch k1 and k2 either to test, id be in the same boat.

I found 1 thread on the zone about wiring the board up but nobody with 12 terminal switch.

[knudsen]

That's a horrible drawing of a 3P3T switch. As far as I can tell from it, in fwd or rev, K1 and K2 are shorted together, and in off, K1 and K2 are open. So if I understand the drawing, it should not matter if K1 and K2 are swapped around, as long as they connect to the switch so they are shorted together in fwd or rev. I'm guessing that just removes the motor from the circuit when not in fwd or rev, so it won't creep or something.

The reversing of the motor actually takes place on the other part of the switch, where the wires cross for fwd and uncross for rev, backasswords, eh? The cross is the "X". So, no if you swap K1 and K2, it will not reverse the motor.

Did you go through any of these tests?

http://littlemachineshop.com/Referen...leshooting.pdf