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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller
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  1. #2041
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    27
    I do not have it hooked up because I've been switching wires try to get it to work. The drawing shows red, silver and black. I have red silver and white. I hooked it up as white was black and nothing. Then tried switching red and white, nothing. So I don't understand what's happening there. If it is not set up the router will not be able to work is what your saying. Well I'll contact the company and ask them.
    Thanks for your time.

    nytwin1

  2. #2042
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    520
    Roman monitors this thread pretty closely, so I would expect him to give you an answer soon.

  3. #2043
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    20
    i carry on desperated!!! After various modifications, place the sensor in differents posistions, my problem persists..... now i put the sensor in a big area, because i thought was that the problem, but the problem is the same....
    https://docs.google.com/a/cittec.es/...5yNFNSb3M/edit
    https://docs.google.com/a/cittec.es/...R0Zk8tRWc/edit


    Any suggestion??

  4. #2044
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    817
    Quote Originally Posted by garciasa View Post
    Any suggestion??
    As I mentioned, you should only have three or four bars at the minimum end. You need to get the sensor closer to the shaft.

  5. #2045
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    20
    i tested it in a lot of ranges!!!! whether it is too close of the sensor doesn't work, i mean, start to run to full speed, and after 5 seconds stop.. and if i separate it 1mm or so, works, but i can't get less bars, the black paint could be the problem??

  6. #2046
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    817
    Quote Originally Posted by garciasa View Post
    i can't get less bars, the black paint could be the problem??
    If you have tried it at all distances, the only thing left to check is the paint and the alignment with your sensor. Some pics of your painted shaft would be helpful. I found the best distance with my sensor was as close as I could get it without rubbing.

    To rule out the sensor, you can remove it and test against a white piece of paper, then test it against something black while watching the bars on the LCD.

  7. #2047
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    20
    Some pics of my painted shaft...
    https://docs.google.com/a/cittec.es/...VUMGZ1dWM/edit
    https://docs.google.com/a/cittec.es/...M0d1JidDA/edit
    https://docs.google.com/a/cittec.es/...VUMGZ1dWM/edit

    i've get few bars adjusting again the sensor, but same result, i don't know..... it's a little bit strange, but always it's failing in 12.000 rpm or above (it fails in the same point that it failed when i'd got installed in the other position (thin shaft), is it possible my superpid is failing?? my router has got a problem?? (the proxxon has been working until i installed the superpid)....


  8. #2048
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    817
    Quote Originally Posted by garciasa View Post
    is it possible my superpid is failing?? my router has got a problem?? (the proxxon has been working until i installed the superpid)....
    Your black looks too shiny, especially since it is open enough to allow ambient light in. Any extra reflected light into the sensor when in the black range is bad because you won't be able to get a low enough reading. Remember, the Super-PID uses the difference between the sensor high and low to generate a pulse train to determine the RPM. If this difference is not big enough, it will lose the pulse train at higher RPM's. Like I've stated, you can test the sensor against a white and black background while watching the bars on the LCD. If the sensor behaves correctly, it is your mounting or paint.

    Until you get the low reading to be at just a few bars, and the high reading to be full or close to full bars, you are going to continue to have the same problem.

    {edit} I just watched your second video closer and it looks like you are getting enough difference between high and low. I'd make sure that the line between black and white is really clean and there are no spots where the paint might be scratched off. Painting the black with a matte (no gloss) might help too. Turn the shaft really slow and watch the bars to see if they only jump when transitioning from black to white. They should not move much in between changes otherwise it confuses the PID. I had a section of white paint that had chipped off on mine and it started doing the same thing as yours is doing. Also make sure that each color covers as close to half of the circumference of the shaft as you can.

    In your second video, it looks like there is a section that spikes the sensor really quickly but I couldn't tell if you just spun the shaft really fast. If you get a fast spike (or drop) somewhere in the middle of your paint band, that's the problem. Personally I'd clean up both the white and black with quality paint and a good sharp masking job. I found that "white out" and a black "Sharpie" does not work nearly as well as good paint. IMO, that is one of the most important things to get your PID working reliably, and it is pretty simple.

  9. #2049
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    20
    after repaint, and readjust again, that's the best adjusting i've achieved,


    But the problem is the same!!!

    is it not enough good calibration???

  10. #2050
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    817
    Quote Originally Posted by garciasa View Post
    after repaint, and readjust again, that's the best adjusting i've achieved,

    But the problem is the same!!!

    is it not enough good calibration???
    Your bars look great now, not sure why it is still acting the same. Could your sensor mount be vibrating or resonating at certain frequencies? The sensor should be secured in the tube with silicone. If it is loose, that could be your problem. If that doesn't fix it, I'm out of ideas.

  11. #2051
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    101
    Graciasa, I read back to what I believe is your original post on this issue, where you stated you are using the Proxxon IB/E tool. I didn't see where you confirmed you disabled the internal speed control that comes with this model prior to connecting the SuperPid to it. Pardon me gents if I missed that discussion and you have already done this.
    airnocker
    Everything depends on everything else

  12. #2052
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    20
    Yes airnocker, i bypassed the triac before connect the superpid...

  13. #2053
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    817
    garciasa, you might consider checking out the pot to rule it out as the source of the problem. When your pid has power and you move the knob quickly, the LCD should display "knob mode" and show the meter. You should be able to get all of the way from zero bars to full bars by twisting the knob.

    That's all I can think of.

  14. #2054
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    20
    Devastator, the pot works ok... from zero bars to full bars when i twist the knob....

    Anybody know if the kress 1050 is better/easier to install the superpid?? because i'm a little bit depressed with my proxxon

  15. #2055
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    I didn't read all the posts, but I recently had an issue with my SuperPID after replacing the sensor, where it appeared to work fine at lower speeds, but ran erratically at higher speeds. It turns out that the cable ties I was using apparently caused a broken wire inside the insulation, causing an intermittent contact.

    I'd monitor the 5V supply voltage while running and see if you're getting any variation.
    Gerry

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  16. #2056
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    20
    i did a test changing the 5v supply, at the beginning i get the 5v from USB, but then to discard problems, i supply 5v from dedicated power supply, but the behaviour was the same....

    I didn't check the wires, so i'll monitor the 5v but i think is ok...

    Thanks for tip ger21...

  17. #2057
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    817
    I might be wrong, but the Proxxon looks to be a poor candidate for the Super-PID. It uses a wave drive control unit and the motor doesn't even have brushes. Weird. The motor is probably only designed to be controlled by their control unit.

  18. #2058
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    20
    https://docs.google.com/a/cittec.es/...RCR0ZUV0E/edit

    I asked to Val (superpid staff) before buy and told me it shouldn't have problems, but the control unit, it doesn't look "special"... i attach a pic... (in this pic i remove the triac, but the 3 points are joined.... but i've tested to put the triac again with the 3 legs joined... but same result.. and the resistor that is up the triac, in this pic was remove to bypass the circuit totally ( only conversion AC to DC is working), but i've tested with the resistor again and same behavior...

    Quote Originally Posted by Devastator View Post
    I might be wrong, but the Proxxon looks to be a poor candidate for the Super-PID. It uses a wave drive control unit and the motor doesn't even have brushes. Weird. The motor is probably only designed to be controlled by their control unit.
    It could be good, at least i'd not waste more time in that, but Val told me there are people using proxxon with a superpid, but he doesn't know where they've connected the sensor , i guess should be work...

    Thanks devastator for all your tips

  19. #2059
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    817
    Quote Originally Posted by garciasa View Post
    I asked to Val (superpid staff) before buy and told me it shouldn't have problems,

    but Val told me there are people using proxxon with a superpid, but he doesn't know where they've connected the sensor , i guess should be work...

    Thanks devastator for all your tips
    If Val says it will work then I trust that. One thing you might check.....unhook the Proxxon power wires from the Super-PID and power them direct from the wall socket. The router should go full speed if the triac is disabled correctly.

  20. #2060
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    24221
    Here is a schematic of an original Proxxon controller and also a Pic controlled one, albeit without rpm control.
    Converting a Proxxon MF70 Milling Machine To CNC ? 3 « joebrown.org.uk
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

Page 103 of 121 35393101102103104105113

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