[l u k e]

Haas did an inspection on the 08 VF2 I purchased and rated it 9 out of 10 because of the rust. The machine only has 3 cutting hours on it, so it's a bummer that the rust is as bad as it is.

I've spent some time working on the rust with steel wool but it's not going real well and I'll never get it done with this approach. The steel wool won’t even touch the rust on the weigh covers anyway, plus it's all but impossible to get all the rust out of the tee slots. I got the table top pretty clean compared to the rest of the machine, but I'm not completely happy with it.

If I'm ever going to clean this machine up I need to do it now, otherwise it's not likely I'll get to it later down the road. I've used a technique in the past for removing rust from steel called electrolysis rust removal which is truly amazing to say the least. I know it would work well for this but I would have to do some disassembly in order to use the process. I'm just unsure of what I would be getting into by taking this thing apart and not sure what parts I would have to buy for proper reassembly (If any, gaskets? Wipers?)

The company I purchased this from did attempt to use naval jelly to remove the rust but really made a piss poor attempt of it; they did succeed in stripping some of the bluing from the chip tray but not much else. I live in Arizona so the moister is minimal, putting the effort into this wouldn’t be totally in vain. I’m just not sure if I’m overly worried about the rust or not, what do you guys think, any suggestions?

Chip tray>





Spindle covers, it kind of looks like oil or something in the picture, but it is rust. >



Tee slots>



A few more >>









Also, should this hole have a plug in it? What is it for?>

[tpractice]

I'm not sure I would remove the waycovers and have them processed as the waycovers have two main functions, keep debris and coolant away from what is behind them and to slide freely. If the covers are damaged during dis-assembly or installation, the covers could bind and fold up.

I would remove any "raised" rust areas with scotch brite and finish with some steel wool just to make sure that the covers are allowed to move freely and again not bind.

As far as the hole in the bottom of the spindle head, I believe cables and/or air lines are run through those hole for the P-Cool option and an air blast setup. Since it's a path to the inside of the spindle head assembly, it should be plugged.

BTW, good find on the VF-2 with 3 hours.

[ImanCarrot]

You don't need to dissasemble everything to do reverse electrolysis- simply slap an old towel soaked in the electrolyte on to the part to be de- rusted, stick a smaller copper plate on top of it- that's your first contact, the second is the part you're de- rusting.


Such a simple idea, unfortunately not thought up by me so Kudos and respect to Mr Frank Ford. Here's the link:

Look for "Killing Rust While It Sleeps"

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Mach...stremoval.html


KURUST is quite handy too- I've used that a few times- it's like a thin paint you apply and it kills the rust. Turns it black though. Worth checking out though.

[l u k e]

I'm not sure I would remove the waycovers and have them processed as the waycovers have two main functions, keep debris and coolant away from what is behind them and to slide freely. If the covers are damaged during dis-assembly or installation, the covers could bind and fold up.

I would remove any "raised" rust areas with scotch brite and finish with some steel wool just to make sure that the covers are allowed to move freely and again not bind.

As far as the hole in the bottom of the spindle head, I believe cables and/or air lines are run through those hole for the P-Cool option and an air blast setup. Since it's a path to the inside of the spindle head assembly, it should be plugged.

BTW, good find on the VF-2 with 3 hours.

Thanks for the advice and I'll plug up the hole..

[l u k e]

You don't need to dissasemble everything to do reverse electrolysis- simply slap an old towel soaked in the electrolyte on to the part to be de- rusted, stick a smaller copper plate on top of it- that's your first contact, the second is the part you're de- rusting.


Such a simple idea, unfortunately not thought up by me so Kudos and respect to Mr Frank Ford. Here's the link:

Look for "Killing Rust While It Sleeps"

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Mach...stremoval.html


KURUST is quite handy too- I've used that a few times- it's like a thin paint you apply and it kills the rust. Turns it black though. Worth checking out though.

Wow that's a cool idea using the towel I'll check it out along with the KURUST. BTW the link didn't work but I can probably find it.

EDIT: It was easy to find, thanks again.

[haastec]

Not to burst any bubbles, but regarding the 3 hours on the machine; are you looking at the page that shows power on, spindle, and feed time? If so, be aware that all three of those displays can be zeroed out by highlighting each one and pressing the origin button.

The true hours of the machine are displayed on a hidden screen only accessable by entering the debug mode.

[l u k e]

Not to burst any bubbles, but regarding the 3 hours on the machine; are you looking at the page that shows power on, spindle, and feed time? If so, be aware that all three of those displays can be zeroed out by highlighting each one and pressing the origin button.

The true hours of the machine are displayed on a hidden screen only accessable by entering the debug mode.

Can you walk me through to that screen and I'll check again. I was shown by someone else so I'm not sure what screen we were looking at. By the looks of the machine there is no tell-tell signs that anything was ever cut in the machine, it’s in brand new condition with the exception of the rust where it sat un-prepped for storage. I would like to verify the hours though.

[Edster]

I think your worried too much about this. I'd just hit the bad rust spots on the waycovers with a scotchbrite pad, and start making chips. Stone the table before you mount your vises or subplate. I have a 94 fadal that had some rust and corrosion on the way covers from the previous owners toilet water coolant. After a few years of use with good coolant most of the corrosion is gone. I can still see a little of the pitting but no rust.

Have fun making chips with the new machine :cheers:

[nwrepair1]

Are the way covers stainless steel? If so, do not use steel wool. It leaves micro bits of regular steel imbedded in the stainless and will rust quickly. Naval jelly uses phosphoric acid to remove rust. It is easier to spray phosphoric acid and use a good stainless or brass brush to remove rust. You can get acid cleaner at a welding supply.

[l u k e]

The electrolyses rust removal technique didn’t work very well on the stainless covers so I opted to just remove them to sand blast then refinish with an air sander. Thanks for the tip on the steel wool.

[l u k e]

I think your worried too much about this. I'd just hit the bad rust spots on the waycovers with a scotchbrite pad, and start making chips. Stone the table before you mount your vises or subplate. I have a 94 fadal that had some rust and corrosion on the way covers from the previous owners toilet water coolant. After a few years of use with good coolant most of the corrosion is gone. I can still see a little of the pitting but no rust.

Have fun making chips with the new machine :cheers:

Yea I was going to just skip it but I'm not quite ready to make chips yet anyway. Plus it bugs me some just looking at it.

[eaglezsoar]

Wow that's a cool idea using the towel I'll check it out along with the KURUST. BTW the link didn't work but I can probably find it.

EDIT: It was easy to find, thanks again.

The site you referred to indicated that the plate was made of steel.
You use copper, does it make a difference? I am very interested in this method of
removing rust because I have never heard of it and I can see a great value for the
process. Thanks for bringing this to our attention.

[l u k e]

The site you referred to indicated that the plate was made of steel.
You use copper, does it make a difference? I am very interested in this method of
removing rust because I have never heard of it and I can see a great value for the
process. Thanks for bringing this to our attention.

I have only used steel as an anode, not sure about a substitute. There are a ton of other sites on the subject, I just never heard of the system for large flat services using a towel. (Just search for " electrolysis rust removal process")

I've used this several different ways and it's truly amazing. I once cleaned out an old lawn mower gas tank that was completely caked with years of rust, when I was done it looked perfect.

[RotarySMP]

As some as you start making chips, those way covers are going to get constantly rubbed with swarf. The rust will be a gonna in no time. If you use cutting lube, the rust won't come back. Self correcting problem.

I painted the inside of the enclose on my little CNC lathe, as it is mild steel and I didn't want it to rust. What a waste of time that was, as most of the paint is gone, and the steel has been rubbed shiny.

[l u k e]

Perhaps it’s a waste of time but I'm going ahead with it anyway. There were heavy deposits of rust that I didn't see until I pulled the covers off so I'm glad I did. I don’t like the deposits of rust on the table either. I live in AZ where rust is easy to control if you don't let it get away from you. Once the machine is back in use full time it should be a problem. In all when I’m done I might have 8 hours into it, so it’s not that big a deal.

[l u k e]

Not to burst any bubbles, but regarding the 3 hours on the machine; are you looking at the page that shows power on, spindle, and feed time? If so, be aware that all three of those displays can be zeroed out by highlighting each one and pressing the origin button.

The true hours of the machine are displayed on a hidden screen only accessable by entering the debug mode.

I finally checked it, looks like just shy of 4 hours.>

[Edster]

Just like new :cheers: