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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > Open Source CNC Machine Designs > Please help me build my pvc pipe profiler (Now with diagram)
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    21

    Please help me build my pvc pipe profiler (Now with diagram)

    Hi guys,

    Sorry if this is in the wrong place but im fairly new to the zone.

    Im looking for some good people to help me with a project that im going to be making.

    I currently own a Swimming pool filtration company and we deal with alot of under drain systems for the swimming pool filters.
    The underdrain systems are built using 2 x 160mmOD PVC-U pipe ranging from 2ft per side up to 5ft per side, however most of the customers want to spice thing up a bit by making them bigger or changing the design, so we will just stick with those sizes for now. The two halfs are then glued into a 160mmID PVC T peice to make one unit.

    In each half there is a number of holes that some 1,1/2" sockets are then welded into. these holes are then also mirrored on the opposite side of the pipe for each end of the socket to stick out of.

    I would like help to try and come up with some design or use an already proven plan that may be available.

    What should the router/profiler do?
    The machine should be able to cut rounded holes along the center of the pipe (any kind of shape really). then the machine should be able to spin the pipe around and mirror the holes on the opposite sides, perfectly aligning with the opposite holes.

    we do a different range of underdrain systems so the pipe fitting must be able to accept a pipe from 1,1/2" up to 8"

    Hardware i have
    Nema 23 motors x 3
    drivers x 3
    controller
    supported round rail x 4
    bearings x 8
    ball screws x 4
    lead screws x 4

    all i really need to come up with is some sort of design. im guessing the design does not have to be wide, just wide enough to accept the largest bore pipe i will be putting ito her. And for length im going to keep it simplt and go for 5ft

    any help getting me started on this project would be greatly appreciated

    if my description makes no sence then i can draw a quick diagram

    Regards

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    359
    A sketch of what you are trying to make what be a good idea.

    From what you have said it looks like you need a 4th axis but if you are willing to rotate the part yourself then 3 axis will do.

    What sort of accuracy do you need, what sort of machinery do you have to make this machine, there is a very steep learning curve.

    You could be on a long road to your final goal.

    Sounds really interesting though.

    Phil

    Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    21
    Thanks for the reply phil, To rotate the part myself i think it would be hard to get the prt lined up correctly, so i have to option but to go for a 4th axis, which is not a problem.

    The accuracy needs to be fairly spot on give or take half a mil, as the sockets that get installed also have pipe glued into them, so if it the accuracy wasnt to good by the time you get to the end of the pipe it wold be sticking up in the air or pushe to ones side.

    the machinery we have at the moment is fairly basic, welders, chop saws, allthough i have just purchase a Blue marlin 3m x 1.5m plasma table so once the prototype is done i could then move onto doing a mk2 if all goes well. I do have some good frinds with cnc mills etc who own engineering shops but failing that im always into offering work to people with the same interests as me I.E the cnc game.

    im not a total newby to the CNC game as i started to build my own 8x4 plasma table but due to lack of time i just took it apart and saved the bits. so i know a bit when it comes to setting it it, buit not a pro lol

    i was thinking of useing something along the lines of Unistrut for the mk1 as we use alot of this in our shop for the pipework so that could be a good starting point i guess

    i will do a quick scetch up in corel draw of what im looking to do with the part and i will upload it in the next 10 mins

  4. #4
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    Sep 2009
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    21
    as promised here is a diagram of what i want the machine to do
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails underdrains.jpg  

  5. #5
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    Sep 2007
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    359
    Its easy to do a 180 degree rotation by hand accurately.

    Its whether you want the automation or simplicity.

    I looked at uni strut and don't think it suitable.

    Are all the parts going to be the same, or lots of variations.

    Phil

    Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    21
    Oh well if its easy to do a 180 rotation then there is no harm giving it a go. What did you have in mind about handeling the rotation?

    I would say 60 percent of there are the same and if they are not its only athe case of a larger hole of different hole centers. so i would like x-y full automated

  7. #7
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    Sep 2009
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    come on guys, i know there is more talented cnc designers and builder out there who can share their information

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    57

    possible solution

    I'm thinking that since this is only for pipe then a simple unistrut fixture could work. The pipe would be supported on one end inside a stepped aluminum cup with steps for each sized pipe. It would be drilled and tapped for a retaining bolt or bolts to hold the pipe in place at each stepped location. The cup holder would be mounted on a rotating shaft that goes through a suitably sized bearing designed so there is acceptable play. The other end of the shaft could have a lever attached for rotating the pipe 180 degrees. Suitable fixed stops and anchors for the lever would accurately line up the holes. I don't see a need for a 4th axle control when the rotation points are fixed and a mechanical solution could be spot on accurate. I would also use sliding supports incorporatied onto the unistrut to support the length of the pipe. Perhaps V shaped supports with bearings to allow for rotation. On the CNC controlled router I would also attach a V shaped upper support that rides along the top of the pipe while cutting. Since the holes are for fittings then a simple vertical cut with a long enough cutter to reach deep enough to the sides of the cut would keep the movements simple and only along two axis once the router is plunged and cutting at the top center of the pipe.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    4
    Just curious - since it's PVC pipe, which cuts easily, why not plunge cut completely through the pipe, and cut both sides simultaneously? Might require a custom cutter to achieve the length, but should be doable, and speed production. Or am I missing something?

  10. #10
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    Sep 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alchymist View Post
    Just curious - since it's PVC pipe, which cuts easily, why not plunge cut completely through the pipe, and cut both sides simultaneously? Might require a custom cutter to achieve the length, but should be doable, and speed production. Or am I missing something?
    Thanks for your reply.

    Not everyone knows how to make these systems in our company and following a plan may be a bit difficult.

    The reason it must be CNC is because when the lads come off the job knowing that they need the underdrain then all they have to to is press a couple of buttons on the machine or pc and off it goes. obviously with a little training on how to show them which buttons to press. in time the cutter will have all the options pre programmed into it where is just the case of finding out what client it is along with spec and away it goes.

    Not only that a client may wish to have some extra little holes in the pipe to fit little extras to it.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    485
    Wouldn't it be easier to make a fixture to hold the pipe and do it in a drill press? Use a hole saw to cut the holes. How many of these do you make a year? A drill fixture would be a lot simpler to make and one could be made for each diameter of pipe.

    Don't know CAD but could make a sketch if you want.

    cary

  12. #12
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    Sep 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by packrat View Post
    Wouldn't it be easier to make a fixture to hold the pipe and do it in a drill press? Use a hole saw to cut the holes. How many of these do you make a year? A drill fixture would be a lot simpler to make and one could be made for each diameter of pipe.

    Don't know CAD but could make a sketch if you want.

    cary
    thanks cary but ive explained why it needs to be cnc in the post above also we already have the drill prees opltion aslo........very slow!!

  13. #13
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    Jan 2010
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    I don't think you can CNC the holes as fast as a hole saw. A properly made jig will eliminate operator error, unless they are doing it wrong on purpose! If thats the case even CNC won't stop it!

  14. #14
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    Sep 2007
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    359
    Quote Originally Posted by packrat View Post
    I don't think you can CNC the holes as fast as a hole saw. A properly made jig will eliminate operator error, unless they are doing it wrong on purpose! If thats the case even CNC won't stop it!
    Do you have any idea how much the jig would weigh to hold the pipe thats 5 foot long on a drill press ?

    Phil


    Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    122
    Why not build a gantry type machine large enough to hold your largest peice. Use a V block that alows you to mount pipe between 6" and 8" pipe. Then your Z would need say 10" of travel. This would alow you to run completely through both sides. This would only require two axis of motion.

    To operate you would have a stop built on one v block. This would be the side glued to the TEE. Then the operaotr would lay pipe on V block making sure to butt it against the stop. Clamp it down. Enter length then press start. It would then drill the holes per program calculated offsets.

    I would use a annular cutter like the mag base drills use.

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