[mxtras]

How should I isolate and/or level a Bridgeport?

I am preparing to relocate my mill and I want to do this the right way. Do I simply put the machine on isolation pads and shim from there or are there 'mounts' (that are reasonably affordable) that would offer vibration isolation and leveling capabilities that I should use?

Remember that the base of the machine won't allow access underneath for a jack screw for leveling - I guess this is the biggest concern. Other than resting the machine on the concrete and using shim to level, how should I do this?

Thanks

Scott

[mxtras]

Awww - come on, Machintek - I know you have the answer......don't be shy...

Scott

[machintek]

You could bolt a Bridgeport to the wall and it would still work. Staying out of the way of the chips may be a different story. In theory, all I have ever done is shim the base to stop it from rocking.
Isolation: I prefer the floor but I can see there rubber feet are handy, especially to sweep chips from beneath the base. BUT: short story: I shared a small shop in NJ with another machinist. We both had BOSS 9 (R2E4) machines. His was on rubber feet. we were both making microwave aluminum parts, hogging with fast helix 2 flute OSG end mills designed for aluminum work. We both pushed the machines, using identical feed and speeds. My theory is that his rubber feet allowed a greater amplitude of the vibration to get to his CRT. His CRT fell apart inside. Mine did not. The S1STD does not have a CRT so go for it, but at some point you may experience a finish problem from a sympathetic harmonic resonance.

George

[mxtras]

If you had your machine shimmed directly off the floor, then that's it for me, too.

Thanks, George. I knew you had some real-world, good advice....I just had to beat it outta ya. :boxing:

Scott

[mxtras]

I just ran across this old thread that I started a while ago and I hate leaving things unfinished, so here's a follow up.

I opted to place the BP on a sheet of brushed aluminum composite material to keep the oil under control and to keep it from making a big mess of the concrete. Also, the floor of this shop sweats pretty badly during certain weather changes and I thought that adding another layer couldn't hurt since this composite material has some insulating properties.

I then chose to tap the holes in the base. Without having to drill them, I tapped them 3/4-10 UNC and then used 5" long leveling screws to level and stabilize the machine. If you choose this route, 5" long is the minimum - this will give you maybe 1/4" of adjustment which was enough for this installation.

In the last pic you might be able to see that I opted to construct two hinged shields that are attached to the pole directly behind the mill. These shields should help contain errant chips and make clean-up efforts a bit easier as they will swing open to allow access to the sides of the mill. The pic doesn't show the arrangement very well but it's the best one I have right now.

Scott

[damae]

That shop is phenomenal! This is the result I imagine if your shop were featured on Trading Spaces, or if you hired an interior decorator! Very nice. Thanks for the tip on tapping the holes, by the way. That might come in very handy if I ever get around to leveling my machine!

[mxtras]

Thanks, damae.

I guess you are still plugging away on your family of mills? (Am I allowed to hijack my own thread? I think I am allowed to do that..) I will track down your recent threads to check for updates - it's been a while since I have seen what you have been up to with your collection. BTW - did you see my thread on moving this mill? I made a sarcastic reference to you in that thread and never got a rise out of you so I am assuming you missed it....or you're ignoring me..... Anyway - it's in the thread about the MXtras shop. Take a look and thanks again for the compliments.

:wave:

Scott

[damae]

Thanks, damae.

I guess you are still plugging away on your family of mills? (Am I allowed to hijack my own thread? I think I am allowed to do that..) I will track down your recent threads to check for updates - it's been a while since I have seen what you have been up to with your collection.

Sure, you're allowed to hijack your own thread. I'll even help you! I've been making progress on the BOSS3 mill and just posted some progress pics tonight. I got sidetracked trying to build custom pulleys (which I did end up making, but not using) and recently got the Y-axis mounted. The big news today was finally getting most of the grime cleaned up and then doing a test run of the VFD. By the way, I did catch your VFD thread and I like your mounting technique. You're pretty handy with a TIG!

BTW - did you see my thread on moving this mill? I made a sarcastic reference to you in that thread and never got a rise out of you so I am assuming you missed it....or you're ignoring me.....

You're right, I missed the thread entirely until today. First class write-up on how to move a Bridgeport! It's fit for the FAQ section of the bridgeport subforum. Seeing a 2000lb mill hanging up in the air, (not just 2" off the ground) was very cool.

... You may forget to keep an eye on vertical clearance and end up running the motor into the bottom of the garage door....not that that happened to me or anything - but I heard it happened to someone once.

Could I be that "someone" you heard it happened to? Stupid 7' garage doors! If you ever catch yourself wishing you'd ordered the 9' ceiling package on your house so you would have a taller garage, you might be a CNC addict. Was it Jeff Foxworthy who said that?

Anyway, keep up the commentary on your shop, mill, and machining adventures. I'm following with interest!

[mxtras]

Same with your write-ups.

I poked around a bit last night and saw your pulley project and other threads. Keep plugging away! I like your commentary. Good stuff!

It's funny how much you can catch the second or third time you read a thread - stuff you miss the first time around.

Oh - the door thing? Yeah, I admit it. It was me - bent the cheap POS door in the process.

:wave:

Scott

[Kevin Taylor]

I thought we were leveling a mill? I do a lot of work where I need to level the work to the spindle quickly so having the table level is a must I drilled the concrete floor for red head ancors that take 5/8-11 allthred use threaded rod long enough to got through the base and aprox. 2" extra place a nut aginst the floor then a washer cut tubing long enough to reach the inside of the base . set the mill on the studs takes two people and a forklift . Washer and nut the top of the base use the lower nut to ajust the level and lock down with the top nut after a few days weeks or years checking it from time to time you can grout between the base and the floor this end's the chips tool's ect from being lost under the base.

[Geof]

I thought we were leveling a mill?...snip...

Thank you for pulling this thread back on track. I think it is reprehensible how some people hijack threads. :stickpoke

[motomech]

Yea and for crying out loud Scott sweep that floor! the place is a mess! (wash my hands -dry my hands-wash my hands- wait did I remember to dry them? oh well wash my hands dry.....)
Incredible shop!

Geo L

[mxtras]

Here is a method for not only checking the level on a daily basis but leveling a machine accurately without the proper tools. More than likely if you have any machines you likely also have a precision level, but for those that do not this is a way to attain perfect level on a machined or precision surface:

Level the equipment the best you can with what you have. If it is a regular level, use it in one orientation then flip it around and put it back in the same spot - if there is any difference, split the error in half. After you get it as close as you can, wipe down the surface you wish to have level (wouldn't hurt to stone this surface, too) - I will use the Bridgeport for example - stone and wipe down the table. Then using an oil can or an oil bottle with a small hole in the top, apply a small stream of thin oil uniformly down the center of the table. Marvel Mystery oil works very well for this because it is thin and has a contrasting red color but way lube or even clean motor oil will work. The next morning (or several hours later if the oil is thin), look at the disbursement of the oil - if the machine is level (and the amount of oil you used is sufficient), the oil will have spread evenly over the entire surface, crowning at the edges. If it is not level, the oil will have pooled to the low side. Make a logical adjustment based on your visual interpretation of the oil and repeat the procedure - you may also have to adjust the amount of oil you use for this depending on the outcome. You want the oil to reach all of the edges of whatever it is you are trying to level. This method does assume that there are no wind currents blowing across the machine influencing the dispersion of the oil which will obviously skew the results. If done with reasonable consistency in a relatively clean environment, this method will get you as close as any precision level. Granted it takes a bit longer, but it does give extremely accurate results and it is something that you likely do anyway - oil the surfaces of your machines after cleaning. Longer surfaces can test your patience and may require more time to allow the oil to react but if it is a flat surface, the oil will tell the tale eventually.

Scott

[SUB84]

LOOKING FOR PARTS ON R2E4 (CRT board ) Repair or new ?

[mxtras]

Post a new thread in the Bridgeport forum - you will likely get results. Your reply in this thread is going to be overlooked.

Scott