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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    91

    need help(marquetry works)

    any idea abt marquetry works, any idea apprecietable.
    i hav laser cutter i would like to cut veneer using this but i dont have idea or the proper procedure to remove the cut veneer after laser cutting tending the veneer to damage.

    other procedures like pasting , polishing reqiures etc care, so anyone having idea plz put forward some tips

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    67
    Hi - I am new to laser cutting too but have found placing the veneer on a bit of paper helps - cut the veneer but not the paper. Pick paper up with cut veneer then use very fine tweezers to pick up.

    PVA glue is ok but you have to clamp evenly.

    Heres one I did recently:




    Dave

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    91
    First of all many many thnks for the supportive answer u have given me.i would like to get much more information in this field.
    if u r a proffesional marquetry guy please provide me certain tips briefly
    i hav certain question,

    1 . certain complicated designs gets damaged when pasting on base board and hw should i paste the veneer to base board without any damages ,
    2. how can i press it for even fixing of veneer to base board
    3. sanding procedure
    4. polishing procedure..

    i
    3.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    67
    Hi - I am not professional, just hobby.

    You could use a sticky paper tape - stick to face of veneer and then cut though it, then stick to base board and when dry remove tape. Two things to remember here is make sure paper tape is very thin or ensure full face of veneer is covered evenly before clamping else you could get bubbles under veneer.

    Glue and clamping - traditionaly veneer is stuck with animal glue and a hot iron which does not really need clamps. Newer glue such as PVA need clamps so two boards to sandwich the baseboard and some heavy bricks or metal will do.

    Sanding - depends on how the veneer is supplied. Start with 120 grit then 320, then 400, then 500 but don't overdo it. Make sure you sand evenly accross the picture.

    Polish - depends on the finish you require. I use a shellac and finish off with a wax. Does depend what the item is going to be used for.


    Hope this helps

    Dave

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    91
    thks 4 help, i will try what u advised ... hope we get more ideas when we combine n try.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    27
    Hi Loyedp,

    I Use with glue for wood and after sandpaper.
    The result is not bad..

    have a look.







    Atelier FEDERICO - http://federico.pro

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1258
    Quote Originally Posted by myrko View Post
    Hi Loyedp,

    I Use with glue for wood and after sandpaper.
    The result is not bad..

    have a look.
    Excellent.

    Love the design and the finish. Great job!

    Zax.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    67
    Very nice work ;-)

    Dave

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    83
    Thats very cool!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1025

    excellent work

    looks very good matches the decore in the room

  11. #11
    Absolutely excellent work Guys.
    You have both set targets which will take something to equal.

    Tweakie.
    CNC is only limited by our imagination.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    67
    Thanks Tweakie

    Dave

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    69
    I think that Dave's words "I am not professional, just hobby" have to be replace with "I am not amateur, just professional" - your clock is awesome ! As well Myrko's table ! Myrko; how deep is your engraving on the table / what is the thickness of your cutted pieces ?

    Regards, Hannu

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    67
    Thanks Hannu,

    i was please with it as it was 2nd attempt (first one was damaged due to over use of sandpaper ;-) ).

    Myrko's table is stunning and I suspect a lot of work went into that too!

    Dave

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    27
    Thank you,
    It is difficult when large parts, can properly align the engraving and inlay part because the inaccuracy of the machine and induction heat on the material creates an uneven gap from 0.1 to 0.8 mm between them.
    This example illustrates some limitations of this technique.

    notexpert,
    The etching depth is 1mm. lasted 2h45min to a power of 200W to 300mm / s.
    The veneer is walnut wood used. The table is made with a carpenter's workbench recycled table. This is my personnal table ( my first test of big parts).
    Atelier FEDERICO - http://federico.pro

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    14
    I've found the joewoodworker website is a great place for tips on veneering. They also sell supplies for vacuum bagging. I've found vac bagging with epoxy to be the best method for glueing veneer, it gives great overall pressure.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    14
    Also for tips on laser marquetry, check out my instructable:
    Laser Marquetry from a photograph

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    115
    very nice

    Tina-Gweike laser company
    email: [email protected]
    Skype: lysunshine521

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    16

    Re: need help(marquetry works)

    Here is a very detailed tutorial on laser marquetry and inlays on Instructable website:
    ww.instructables.com/id/Laser-Marquetry-Inlays/
    I posted that one, hope it helps.

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