[discojon]

Solderer to pin 4 on the inside.

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[kolias]

Solderer to pin 4 on the inside.

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Will do that, thanks

[rickzva]

Here's what mine looks like. It's an easy fix. I'll solder a wire to the pin 4 terminal and attach it to the spindle body when I screw it back together.

I wonder how many people think they have a grounded spindle and don't know the pin needs to be wired. I learned something important today.

[rickzva]

You already have created a Ground loop and don't even know it

You are making a ridiculous statement, you live in the USA, the seller lives in China and they don't use a Ground, so of course, he would not know any better than to say what he did, the input wiring you have shown is also not up to code for a VFD connection

The #4 Pin is a Dummy Yes !! and you have to fix it, you said you read the manual, then I suggest that you read it again, before you make such a ridiculous and dangerous statement, here is what your manual will tell you a snip from your manual

I'd like to know what is wrong with the input wiring. I'm really trying to learn so rather than just ask you outright I'm trying to figure it out myself.


I'm using 14 guage wire. It's coming off a 20A circuit so I suppose the code might require 12 gauge, but the spindle is rated for 8.5A so I think it's ok.


Wire coloring. I'm using standard 14/2 wire but colored one wire red so I'm not using a white for a hot lead.

The bare ground is connected to the ground terminal.

There are three input terminals: R, S, and T. I am using R and S but I think the code might require that R and T is used. This is where I think the problem is.

Rick

[mactec54]

rickzva

There is no code related to R- S- T Terminal Connection, R and T on these VFD Drives gives a better balance, some manufacture will say which Terminal you should connect use for single Phase connection

The cable you are using, Romex cable, is fine for in wall wiring, but is not suitable for wiring anything like this, you used a good cable for the VFD to Spindle connection, the input should be treated the same way, it does not have to be shielded but it should be a quality cable of the right Gauge, there are other ways the supply power can be wired to a VFD, but most use a suitable cable

The input Amps can be more than double of what the output is needed for the spindle, so it could go as high as 17 amps, if your spindle is 8.5A, your 14G wire would be under what is required, you have a 2.2Kw Spindle the amps would be 10A amps at 220v, 9A if you use 240v if you don't set the VFD Parameters correct

[kolias]

If I'm not mistaken R=L1, S=L2, T=Neutral(White)

[mactec54]

If I'm not mistaken R=L1, S=L2, T=Neutral(White)

No Neutral is not used if you are using 240v in NA, if you connect Neutral when using 240v in NA you will damage the VFD, Only ( 2 ) Input Terminals can be used for Single Phase

For 120v Single Phase you will have ( 1 ) Hot L1 wire a Neutral and Ground R=L1 Hot T= Neutral ( E ) Ground/Earth

For 240v Single Phase you will have ( 2 ) Hot wires L1 and L2 and a Ground R=L1 Hot T=L2 Hot ( E ) Ground/Earth

This is how it is for North America

Other countries use different voltages, from 200v 220v 230v, for Single Phase, there connections have ( 1 ) L1 Hot wire a Neutral and ( E ) Ground, there connections for this VFD would be R=L1 Hot T=Neutral ( E ) Ground/Earth

[kolias]

Solderer to pin 4 on the inside.

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I will be doing this work tomorrow and wonder, did you pull out the wires from terminals 1-3 to free the female part from the cap?

Looks like the heat shrink tube covers the terminals too.

[rickzva]

I will be doing this work tomorrow and wonder, did you pull out the wires from terminals 1-3 to free the female part from the cap?

Looks like the heat shrink tube covers the terminals too.

I left the cap in place and just soldered a wire to the fourth pin on the underside of the cap.

[kolias]

Rick, where did you attach the other end of the wire you solder to the fourth pin?

I have attached some pictures of the work I did (I had no green color heatshrink sleeve so I used red). Checking continuity now I have a ground between pin 4 and the body of the spindle. The screw holding the ground wire could not sit properly because the underside of the spindle cap is cone shapped so I wedged the ground terminal to the conned surface and tighten as much as I could. Later I will connect the water pump again to check if I have any leaks

[discojon]

You guys seriously are making this way to difficult. Shouldn't make more that 10 min tops. Yea that is done correctly.

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[kolias]

discojon you must be a genius LOL, but my fingers are too big for such a job plus my soldering skills not the best around. I hope it will hold the way I did it

Anyway your idea was top notch!

[Dan911]

Ok, not looking for a debate, only asking a question and trying to make this clearer for myself. I know VFD's is your field.


R and T are inputs and used for 220v.

If using the same connection for 110v than this will require a neutral on one of these connections correct?

I'm perfectly aware of the difference between ground and neutral. Neutral is a return path for supply current and may not always be 0 volts. That's why not needed for 220v, the 2 hot leads use each other for that.

BUT the neutral bar is grounded at the main source. So wouldn't connecting a neutral to R or T have the same ill effect as a ground?

Neutral is the return path

A Ground connection would cause a dead short, so everything that is Grounded in you machine Etc, would be live, if the Breaker did not trip, and if you touched any part of your machine you would be Zapped

You will find the Neutral is only connected to Ground at the Main Power entrance to a Building, any sub box from that point, which most have, the Neutral is not connected to Ground, ( By Code anyway ) You would connect Neutral to the T Terminal depending on the VFD Manufacturer some it would be connected to the S terminal

I know a neutral is a return path, it seems you just parroted that from my post.

My next question my help other DIYers in NA that had there home built before the 90's and the neutral is used as a ground for 220 volt. What's your suggestion for wiring there VFD? New service?

[mactec54]

I know a neutral is a return path, it seems you just parroted that from my post.

You are starting you BS again, you asked the question, check what you posted, here is what you posted, ( If using the same connection for 110v than this will require a neutral on one of these connections correct? ) I gave you the answer

My next question my help other DIYers in NA that had there home built before the 90's and the neutral is used as a ground for 220 volt. What's your suggestion for wiring there VFD? New service?

Its as simple as to check the code requirements for doing such an install, you will find for it to be legal there electrical system would have to be upgraded

[evguru]

My next question my help other DIYers in NA that had there home built before the 90's and the neutral is used as a ground for 220 volt. What's your suggestion for wiring there VFD? New service?

If Neutral is being used as protective ground, then it would be wired to the protective ground terminal.

Not really a safe practice though. An imbalaced load between the two 110v circuits can raise neutal above ground potential if the bonding at the panel isn't good.

[Al_The_Man]

Hearing from your words, I'm very sad. Huanyang grand ,AS I CHINESE, I never heard, i don't know why so many people talk it.
Only 45 days ,it's broken , my god.

One of the reasons most buy the Huanyang is the price, but the manual and support leave alot to be desired, this is whay many get into trouble.
If one is going to pay slightly more there are higher quality ones with factory support such as Hitachi etc.
Al.

[boydage]

Hi guys. Gee I am seeing a debate about simple wiring and not so much about the many parameters the VFD holds. These parameters and setting the unit up are the discussion in this thread are they not?

I believe if one is unable to wire up the input and output of this unit they should probably get someone in who can, in the matter of safety? Yes? Far out!

But what I did want to say, was the fact I have a Huanyang Chinese unit and a 2.2kw air cooled spindle. I have used it for way over its duty cycle at times, cutting dry, alloys, steels, hard-woods (which are rougher than metals), and have absolutely no issues. The setup is fantastic at a DIY price. In fact I am running a business with my router. I am pleased I bought it.

Regards Boyd

[Al_The_Man]

There are three input terminals: R, S, and T. I am using R and S but I think the code might require that R and T is used. This is where I think the problem is.

Rick

I have used R & S for these VFD's have not found any difference between using any combo.
The manual say the 'If single phase The source meets two Wilfully' what ever that means, I believe it means pick any two!! when translated from the Chinese, just about all the Utube videos showing running and setting up show many users using R&S.
Al.

[mactec54]

Can these VFDs run at constant speed?
Do I have the settings wrong, or am I misunderstanding how the VFD works?
It is my understanding that a VFD's are able to maintain the set rpms by adjusting power. However, when my setup is lightly loaded down the rpms drop. The current increases but the rpms are not maintained.

My Setup:
Spindle: Water Cooled, 1.5KW, 110V, 400Hz, 24000rpm, 8Amp
Inverter: Huanyang HY01D511B, 1.5KW/110V, 110V Input and Output
Source: Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/MYSWEETY-Cool...5kw+water+110v
Using the pot on the front of the VFD. Can get all the way up to 24,000 rpm. Other than this constant speed issue, everything is working fine.

Parameters I'm using:
PD001 = 0
PD002 = 1
PD003 = 400
PD004 = 400
PD005 = 400
PD007 = 10
PD008 = 110
PD009 = 14
PD010 = 7
PD011 = 120
PD014 = 10
PD015 = 10
PD070 = 1
PD072 = 400
PD73 = 120
PD141 = 110
PD142 = 8
PD143 = 2
PD144 = 3000

You amps should be much higher when running on 120V try to increase 120v=12.5a for 1.5Kw, so try it at 10 amps and see if it is any better, you can expect it to drop in RPM if you are taking to big a cut, try with lighter cuts to find the ideal running without the drop in RPM, more torque can be added but this would be a risk you would be taking

[Westcliff]

You amps should be much higher when running on 120V try to increase 120v=12.5a for 1.5Kw, so try it at 10 amps and see if it is any better, you can expect it to drop in RPM if you are taking to big a cut, try with lighter cuts to find the ideal running without the drop in RPM, more torque can be added but this would be a risk you would be taking

I'm using this for a different application, not a CNC which it seems like it would work fine for.
So, turns out I will not be able to hold a specific rpm regardless of load. I don't fully understand it but it has something to do with the fact that this spindle motor is an induction motor and is self commutating. Looks like if you want to be able to control RPM directly you will need a motor with an encoder/sensor. I believe that while this system for most purposes seems to be constant speed, it is actually constant power or possibly constant torque. While spinning at 7k rpm i can slow the spindle down to around 5000-5500 with my fingers (not recommended!).

Thanks for everyone's help in this forum though. I would not have gotten this far without your comments. You guys saved me from most of the headaches from this VFD.