[dave22]

About time for an update:

I ordered a mount plate for my Bosch from K2, the guy said lead time on it was at least a week. It's been 10 business days. Getting antsy.

Also ordered a PSU from Ahren. For some reason I thought this whole time it was an AC power unit, which I have a supply for through work. Oh well, Ahren is fast so I'm expecting that next week.

In preparation for its arrival I cobbled together a computer from a couple of other older computers in the spare parts pile. I used the Live! CD to install the EMC packages. (Only after I used an Ubuntu 10.10 Live CD that I already had to install Ubuntu, only to find out you can't easily install it from a repository. You have to roll the source yourself, also the support is only up to 10.04 for EMC.)

I picked up some pre-made male-to-female DB9 serial cables from the local electronics/wire store. After I bought them I immediately regretted it because I think I just read a thread on here saying I was going to have to move the resistors off of the motor pigtails where Ahren put them to the other end of the wire where it connects to the Gecko G540? Hopefully I can modify these to do the job? If not I do have some 24 gauge hookup wire I can make custom harnesses if necessary.

I still have to cut some threads on some more bolts and disassemble the z-plate assembly to add the bolts and remove the one bolt from the hole that the gantry R&P bushing needs.

I am also trying to narrow down my software requirements in addition to EMC. I would really like to use Google's Sketchup program for my CAD work, it just depends on how I can get their stuff into CAM. The Pro version allows you to export to .DXF and some other formats.

Try this link:Convert Sketchup SKP files to DXF or STL | Download Sketchup plugin

Saves having to pay $495.00 for the Pro Version

Hope this helps.

[ackbar345]

It has been almost a week since my last update. I am currently making up my wiring harnesses. A co-worker found some cable chain for me in a dusty supply bin at work, score!

I ended up exchanging those pre-made serial cables for some 18 gauge hookup wire.So right now I am twisting the wire, feeding it through the cable chain and soldering on the db9 connectors. How important is shielding? Is anyone else using bare twisted wire without additional shielding? The guy had some pre-made cabling with 18 gauge wire that was shielded with 4 wires, if I could go back a 3rd time I would probably get it. For some reason I thought I needed 5 wires.

I'm still pondering how to rig up the cable chain on the frame. I think I saw someone on this forum using a bit of angle iron as a workaround but I'd like to do something a little more elegant since the cable chain addition makes the whole system look sexy(IMHO)... anyone have links to good cable chain execution on a 80/20 frame?

I'm about to pull my Z cable through the two pieces of cable chain and solder up my last connectors and test them on the Gecko.

Oh, I also found a nice enclosure that was meant for an earlier project and is now being re-purposed to hold the power supply and Gecko 540. I cut out a hole and mounted the G540. I'll be adding a fan (or a couple of fans) later.

Pics to come later tonight/this afternoon.

[CarveOne]

snip

I'm still pondering how to rig up the cable chain on the frame. I think I saw someone on this forum using a bit of angle iron as a workaround but I'd like to do something a little more elegant since the cable chain addition makes the whole system look sexy(IMHO)... anyone have links to good cable chain execution on a 80/20 frame?

snip

I used steel angle because it's lower cost than aluminum angle, and because I can weld it easily. Aluminum works well, and it's lighter and better looking.

CarveOne

[ackbar345]

A few photos of what is going on currently.

Yesterday I put her up on "blocks" and I popped some of the legs off to slide tnuts and attach corner brackets for each of the legs. I ran into a small problem with the inside legs not being able to spin past the rack and I actually broke a corner off of one. Luckily I had a pre-tapped spare laying around so no biggie. I also came up short on the t-nuts, which I knew was going to happen, so I placed an order with MSC and they should be here early next week. These corner joints aren't mission critical and won't require major tear down to install, the end legs come off relatively easily.

As you can see I've got a green light on the G540 with all 4 motors plugged in, but still have the cable chain just kind of hanging around. I am kicking around the idea of designing something that will screw into the end of the extrusion to support the cable chain...

Ahren got my power supply out super fast, shipped on Saturday here on Tuesday. K2 finally sent me an email Friday saying my router mount had shipped. In their defense it was listed as out of stock on the website and the guy I talked to said there was at least a week turnaround time on it.

Agenda for today:
install power switch & fans for the power supply box. I already put a aluminum finned heatsink on the G540 that I stole off an old power supply.

I still need to salvage or acquire an e-stop button.

attempt powered motion.

[ackbar345]

Quick update:

I have motion on the X and Y axes, haven't tested the Z yet but that will probably be my task this morning. I had some problems initially with the X axis keeping the slaved X motors running together but some fine tuning seems to have worked those kinks out. I had to adjust the smaller gear on the R&P plate in a little so it wouldn't catch the rack clamps and I tightened up the belt while I was at it. This seems to have cleared things up nicely.

Also initially I had a parallel cable that I got from my grandfather that I wanted to use and it SEEMED to work. This is where things get tricky. I'm not sure if it was a specialty cable or a printer cable or what but not all the pins were wired straight through. Instead only some of them were, INCLUDING pin 16! This meant that the G540 tested Green but nothing else seemed to be working. Finally I worked my way through all of the common problems in the G540 installation guide and tested my cable with a meter and found it was not wired straight through. A little rummaging in my OTHER grandfather's junk bins and I found one that worked.

Today I am still working on wiring my control cabinet, adding some fans and power switches. More importantly I will be attempting to add some limit/home switches. Also testing the Z axis.

[DIYaholic]

ackbar345,

Your build is looking good.

A few questions, if you don't mind.
1) What does your gantry weigh, including the Z-Axis?
2) What is the holding torque for the motors on each axis'?
3) What are the spec's for your Z-Axis acme screw?

I'm researching/designing a 3' x 4' R&P machine and would appreciate the info. Thanks in advance for the help.

Randy,

[gjhammer]

Your machine is looking great!

As far as the cable carrier supports, you may want to look at what I did, not sure how sexy it is though.


http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...6&d=1274243565

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...7&d=1274243565

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...5&d=1274243565

My build log is at:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wo...ild_using.html

[ackbar345]

ackbar345,

Your build is looking good.

A few questions, if you don't mind.
1) What does your gantry weigh, including the Z-Axis?
2) What is the holding torque for the motors on each axis'?
3) What are the spec's for your Z-Axis acme screw?

I'm researching/designing a 3' x 4' R&P machine and would appreciate the info. Thanks in advance for the help.

Randy,

1)I haven't put it on a scale, but it is heavy enough I wish I had someone else to lend a hand when I've taken it on and off the machine. Also I have to trim off about 3 inches from the 1530 extrusion and trim up the screw. They are both a little long.
2)Well, the NEMA 23 s are rated at 380 oz/in of holding torque @ 3.5 A. However, I am not sure it is getting the full 3.5A. I think I saw a formula some where to calculate this but I wasn't able to hunt it down last night when I started typing this reply. I am using a 48V 7.3A power supply. I am dual driving the X axis on rack and pinion. Single NEMA 23 driven Y with R&P and
3)a single NEMA 23 driven Z with a 5 start acme screw from McMaster-Carr.


@gjhammer : Your girl is BEEFY! I've definitely surfed your thread before but I'm not sure I saw the chain guide pics. That is definitely close to the route I want to go, though your cable chain is probably 3x the width of mine just judging from the pics. Mine measures in at ~ .5"x1", it came off of one of those crane/claw games you see in an arcade. How did you deal with it on the Y-axis?

[ackbar345]

OK so I got my first introduction to CNC movement on Sunday and Monday. By Monday I had the X and Y axis driving smooth and the Z axis mostly working but not even close to what I'd call "smooth". Through a lucky accident involving me being on the floor and the dog leaping over me to bark at a squirrel I dropped the keyboard and the panel in Mach3 that looks like a pendant control and lets you jog the device around popped up. Score!

I tried wiring up some home switches and seemed to be having some luck, except I need to find a better way to mount them than with velcro strips. It was just a temporary kludge so that I could make sure I was wiring them correctly and that they were going to show up in software.

Now the Z axis. It is make some grind-y noises when it first starts up. I don't know if it is these thrust bearings I am using. @lunchtrayrider - did you ever get that other kind of bearing from McMaster and test it out? Also, at first it seemed it would sometimes start to send the Z up when I said down, and down when I said up but if I'd stop for a second and then restart it, it would go in the correct direction. Now, after jamming it once, it seems to only want to go down? Also, I ran the X off the r&p on one side and now they seem to want to drive in opposite directions. Ugh. So much learning to do, I love it.

My priority this week is to calibrate the soft limits correctly and to figure out how to calibrate the home location. Also mounting the home switches properly would be a big help, a less kludgy but still temporary way to mount the cable chain while I test the unit and a nut of some kind that will let me screw two DB9 connectors together.

[ackbar345]

Mark it: 7:33 PM 1/25/11 . The exact time and date I realized I should have just bought the cables from Ahren and been done with it.

I'll be desoldering and properly twisting my wire pairs and resoldering all night if anyone needs me.

[DIYaholic]

Mark it: 7:33 PM 1/25/11 . The exact time and date I realized I should have just bought the cables from Ahren and been done with it.

I'll be desoldering and properly twisting my wire pairs and resoldering all night if anyone needs me.

Live & Learn! It's all part of the FUN we call "real life experience". Hope you got everything sorted out ok.

BTW, thanks for answering my questions regarding spec's for motors and what not.

Randy

[ackbar345]

OK. That was a nightmare. I am using cable chain that is pretty small, about 1 inch wide. This isn't wide enough to allow a soldered DB9 connect to be fed through. If you are going to be in a similiar situation, take a second to think about what you are going to do and maybe write it down before you turn on your iron. Trust me. It will save you a lot of time. I am not a novice with an iron, but I made some really stupid errors and it cost me A LOT of time last night and this morning. Things can get confusing with chains and wires all tangled up. Take a few minutes with a black marker and mark the wires and connectors before you begin on both ends. Make sure your male and female ends are on the correct sides depending on your chain setup.

After all that I now have shielded cables and was able to add a little length which is nice and I'm a lot more confident in the soldering. I'm not sure that it is worth it. I did discover the reason my Z was being flaky (besides still needing some TLC and adjustments) was because one of the wires had come off. However, the reason the X & A were reversed were because I mounted them as mirror opposites. I figured out that I needed to set the A to the opposite polarity in software, by setting the pins to LOW. Now things are working lovely. I'll try to shoot some vid with my nano here in a bit.


My mount from K2 came in earlier this week. I failed to take into account that this mount is for a "standard" setup and not for the high z setup I am using. I am thinking I can perhaps modify it as is without additional purchase. My plan is to measure and see if I can simply add 4 holes and mount it to the 80/20 1530 with 4 flat head socket bolts (counterbored flush?) and T-nuts.

Next up:

Better mountings for my cable chains & limit switches.
Setting up soft limits n the software.
Motor tuning.
Trim Z & screw length.
Modify router mounting plate.

[ackbar345]

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSZNn5vx1ZE"]YouTube - CNC X Y Z axis tests[/nomedia]

[ackbar345]

nm. just paste in the youtube embed code, duh.

[ackbar345]

:banana:

[DIYaholic]

ackbar345,

Congrats on movement of your machine!

I must admit that I was VERY DISAPPOINTED, after watching both videos, that Franklin did not make another cameo appearance. Was he asking too much money to appear in the sequel? Those darned hollywood types!

Randy,

[eigstein]

your grind-y sounding z axis may be coming from the thrust bearings . we can't tell from the u-tube, but suspect you ran the threaded rod through the thrust bearings and did not use the piece of drill rod as shown in ahren's sketch ups . the drill rod makes a seat for the bearings and keeps them in line . ahren has never explained this in enough detail . if you think about it . you have 6 thin rings sitting on the edge of a screw . bad things can happen .

[ackbar345]

your grind-y sounding z axis may be coming from the thrust bearings . we can't tell from the u-tube, but suspect you ran the threaded rod through the thrust bearings and did not use the piece of drill rod as shown in ahren's sketch ups . the drill rod makes a seat for the bearings and keeps them in line . ahren has never explained this in enough detail . if you think about it . you have 6 thin rings sitting on the edge of a screw . bad things can happen .

@ DIYaholic - Yeah, my dad took him out to the hunting club for the weekend. I'm sure he'll attempt to be in future videos, cam whore.

@ eigstein - It appears the grindy noise and errant motions were due to a shoddy soldering job on that connector. All the cabling has been redone with shielded cable and with superior soldering (through extensive practice) this time. Also I re-tuned the bearings on the carriages, trimmed the excess off the Z and screw and installed the bushing bearing on the bottom of the screw. Seems to be running well at the moment.

I think I have the soft limits mostly worked out and the home switches seem to be working though I still need to mount them in a more permanent position. This morning I am working on wiring up the relay for the router.

[JayCop]

Ackbar man that thing is looking sweet. I have a few questions about your machine.

How tall are the legs?

What are your router mounts, mounted to? (The linear carriages?)

Can you upload the sketchup file? Please pretty please

[ackbar345]

Ackbar man that thing is looking sweet. I have a few questions about your machine.

How tall are the legs?

What are your router mounts, mounted to? (The linear carriages?)

Can you upload the sketchup file? Please pretty please

First I would like to direct attribution specifically to Ahren of cncrouterparts.com for all parts that are taken from his website. Many of his parts drawings are used in the rendering of my machine. He retains all rights to his drawings.

Second I would like to direct attribution and thanks to lunchtrayrider and Arbo (both of these forums) as I drew inspiration from both of their designs and valuable knowledge from their and other build logs on this site.

Third, to the members of this site who helped me through a couple of tough spots during design and construction.


http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19254565/cnc.skp

I am releasing this file under the Creative Commons 3.0 license. A summary of the license can be found here: Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 United States — CC BY 3.0 Full text can be found here:
Creative Commons Legal Code

In answer to your question, the legs are 8" tall. The router mount I bought from K2. I had to modify it. I had my machinist (Jergen's Werkstatt, Garden City, SC) pop 4 counterbored holes in the plate that lined up with the 80/20 extrusion slots. This allowed me to use the flat headed version of the socket head cap screw (see this nifty chart from the intertubes) and some economy t-nuts to fasten it to my extrusion. I think, but I am not certain, this is a result of using the Ahren's high-z plate.


I believe this to be the most up to date and accurate version I have of the sketchup file but it is given without warranty and with no guarantees of safety or function.