[QSIMDO]

Any of you folks ever notice the quill wobbling in the head?

I have a manual, Aaron era model and while doing some boring today I noticed the quill shucking back & forth. Not a lot, but seemingly more that it should.

Anyone ever have this problem and moreover, how bad is the cure?

[arizonavideo]

No real cure, the quill fit is just sloppy in most of the China RF-45 mills.

Use the lock and if you need it to be tighter for drilling or boring drag the log slightly.

I did make a shim out of UHMWPE to put under the lock to allow me to set the lock tight and still move the quill, works good at removing the slop but I needed to hard lock the quill sometimes too so I had to remove it.

Now that it is CNC it is not much of a problem.

I would CNC the Z real fast just for that reason.

I could whip something up for you if you want to try it.

[QSIMDO]

Thanks, AZ, that's an interesting proposal.

For now though I think I'll contact Moglice and discuss it with them.
Very little needs to be taken up but I've been thinking of upgrading the bearings for the gears anyway so while I have the head off...

CNC Z, eh?
I'm going to keep that in mind.
Might save my old shoulder from all that cranking!

[HuFlungDung]

You might be better off to look into having the quill built up with hard chrome (not decorative chrome). Epoxy materials don't work very well in extremely thin applications, and they can also cause abrasion where you do not want it. You'd need to make a trial plug (about 4" long) out of something (like a piece of tubing or shafting) and hand fit it to the quill housing to see how much larger you could actually go. The chrome shop needs to know exactly what the max diameter dimension is going to be. You cannot polish hard chrome down without a whole lot of trouble, although maybe a diamond impregnated emery cloth exists by now?

[QSIMDO]

:idea:
Hey, I know!
I'll check into having the quill hard chromed!!

Hu, if that had been a train I'd be flat right now!

My only defense is it's Sunday and I really don't think on Sundays.

Thank you!:cheers:

PS
Check out Moglice though, it really is designed for just this purpose.

[Torsten]

:idea:
PS
Check out Moglice though, it really is designed for just this purpose.

Moglice works the same way, you would first have to bore out the Quill housing the Moglice needs to be of a minimum Thickness to work proper.

[arizonavideo]

The hard chrome guys around hear told me $150 for Chrome and it would have to be ground after for another $200.

I think he was quoting me the Government price but it was not a vary good deal.

The stang thing was my 15 year old RF-31 had the ways worn but the quill was almost perfectly tight. Made in Taiwan.

Seeing how much you need to add is not that hard being that their is room for a feeler gauge to fit in GAP.

Sorry but the quill is just not the good part of these machines. Fitting a quill tight takes time and skill, it is just easier to make sure it fits the first time by adding .003" clearance to the bore.

[smallblock]

The hard chrome guys around hear told me $150 for Chrome and it would have to be ground after for another $200.

I think he was quoting me the Government price but it was not a vary good deal.

The stang thing was my 15 year old RF-31 had the ways worn but the quill was almost perfectly tight. Made in Taiwan.

Seeing how much you need to add is not that hard being that their is room for a feeler gauge to fit in GAP.

Sorry but the quill is just not the good part of these machines. Fitting a quill tight takes time and skill, it is just easier to make sure it fits the first time by adding .003" clearance to the bore.

Think of it as a piston in a cylinder- first you need to check the bore to see if its round. Then if the quill is the problem you could knurl it on a lathe and polish it back to the needed dimension. Simple and cheap.

On my old 1994 Shoptask, after about 6 years of use, the casting had worn right at the end where the quill moved in and out. The quill had also worn. I pulled it apart and turned the quill down until it was round . Then I welded up a fixture to hold the mill head casting horizontally on the table and bored it out using the lathe spindle. I made a sleeve out of some pipe scrap and pressed it into the casting and then set it up again and bored it to fit the quill dimension. Took me about 6 hours of labor altogether, but no cost for parts and did everything on the Shoptask myself.

[M250cnc]

Heres a link to how i cured mine, you can only see the pics if you are a logged in member.

Warco Major CNC build log

From post 97

Phil