[TheButcher69]

Can someone please help me?

I'm trying to wire my new motor to my new switch for my lathe. The lathe runs forward off reverse. Off was always center on old turn style switch. The lathe is from Harbor Freight. SKU# 31316, Motor type YCYS7144A, Specs: 550W, 110V, 8.8A, 1700 RPM, 60 Hz, IP44, 300uF, 35uF, E, S1.

I have a single phase AC induction motor which has 4 terminals to connect wires to. This motor is a direct replacement from Harbor Freight. Under this terminal block there are:

2 - White wires going to terminal Z2 (Please note the 1 white wire looks yellow but is white.)

1 - Black wire goes to terminal U2

1 - Red wire goes to terminal U1

1 - Green wire goes to terminal Z1

NOTE: Z2 & U2 have a metal bar going across (you can see in the picture)
U1 & Z1 also have this metal bar going across.

I need to wire this motor to a DPDT toggle switch rated 20A 250v.

The toggle switch has 6 terminals. The 2 terminals in the middle are common. I was told that by the electric store I bought it from.

Below is what I mapped so far.

[TheButcher69]

I did wire black (hot) & white (neutral) to the center DPDT switch & I first connected Z2 (I connected to neutral side) & Z1 (I connected to hot side) on DPDT switch & the motor ran clockwise. I then reversed the leads but the motor still ran clockwise. I did the same with the U1 & U2 leads & it did the exact same thing. Both times you can hear the switch in the motor kick in.

[Al_The_Man]

You need to reverse either the start winding ends, or the run winding ends to reverse direction, the run winding is connected directly across the L & N, the Start winding has the Cap, switch, start winding all three in series across the L & N.
It is often easier to reverse the run winding WRT to the start series string.
If you have two caps, one is start and one is left in for run usually.
Al.

[TheButcher69]

You need to reverse either the start winding ends, or the run winding ends to reverse direction, the run winding is connected directly across the L & N, the Start winding has the Cap, switch, start winding all three in series across the L & N.
It is often easier to reverse the run winding WRT to the start series string.
If you have two caps, one is start and one is left in for run usually.
Al.

Hey Al thanks for jumping in! What is L & N? Also WRT? Sorry if it a dumb question but I came so far I don't wanna burn it up. OH! it is a 2 cap motor.

How do I find the polarity of the windings? So I'm sure to connect the right motor wires to the hot side & the neutral side.

I know Z2 & Z1 go together & U1 & U2 go together. I connected them separately to the switch & they both ran in the same direction inspite of which way I connected either pair Z2 neutral - Z1 hot or U1 neutral & U2 hot. I take it Z2 & Z1 are the start winding because both caps are wired into Z2.

Someone said I'd need to run a jumper from the lower neutral to the upper neutral on the neutral side of the DPDT switch. Is that correct?

[TheButcher69]

Here's a diagram of how I connected the wires from the motor to the DPDT. NOTE: I reversed the bottom 2 both ways & the motor still turns counter clock wise no matter what. I don't see the purpose of both winding in this motor because connecting Z2, Z1 & U1, U2 start the motor the same way & I can hear the switch inside kicking in.

I just remembered there are metal tabs across the top of the terminals connecting Z2 & U2 & the same for U1 & Z1. My old motor didn't have these. Could this be preventing the reverse direction?



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[john-100]

Hi

I think you need a 3 pole version of your switch

on the motor , one winding is Z1 to Z2 , the second U1 to U2

you need to apply the power the same way to one of the windings

and be able to reverse the other

the links on the motor terminals are intended to be

U1 + Z1 and Z2 +U2 or for reverse Z2 + U1 and U2 + Z1

live to U1 via the switch and neutral to U2



with a 3 pole switch , one pole switching the live to the motor

the next two poles connect U1 to Z1 and U2 to Z2

or for reverse U1 to Z2 and U2 to Z1

hope this helps ( I'll have to find out how to add pictures !)

[TheButcher69]

Hi

I think you need a 3 pole version of your switch

on the motor , one winding is Z1 to Z2 , the second U1 to U2

you need to apply the power the same way to one of the windings

and be able to reverse the other

the links on the motor terminals are intended to be

U1 + Z1 and Z2 +U2 or for reverse Z2 + U1 and U2 + Z1

live to U1 via the switch and neutral to U2



with a 3 pole switch , one pole switching the live to the motor

the next two poles connect U1 to Z1 and U2 to Z2

or for reverse U1 to Z2 and U2 to Z1

hope this helps ( I'll have to find out how to add pictures !)

Thanks John! I got it work some what with what I have but here's where I'm stuck.

What am I doing wrong here? I put the switch in the upward position the motor turns counter clock wise. I put the switch in the downward position it turns clock wise. I put the switch in the center (which is suppose to be off) the motor hums but doesn't turn.

The center poles are common.



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[Al_The_Man]

Looks to me like you may be using a two pole switch instead of a 3 pole as John is showing?
Al.

[john-100]

Hi ,

with just a two pole switch you are not switching off the power to
the coil Z1 - Z2
( thats why you need the extra pole to the switch in my diagram )

just an on off switch in the supply to the circuit you have now ,will work

but a 3 pole double throw, centre off switch will be easier to use

John

ps always stop before reversing direction
the motor will not be designed to change direction while running

[TheButcher69]

Thanks ALOT guys! Now all I have to do is find that switch in my area. Happy New Years & may it be healthy happy, & safe!

[TheButcher69]

Hey John I was thinking I would be better off using this DPDT switch & getting another switch for the power for safety reasons since toggles are so easily turn on.

But would I need a simple on/off switch 2 terminals SPST or a SPDT 3 terminals?

I'm studying your diagram but my brain is fried after 3 days trying to learn this stuff.

Ok I think I would need just a SPST switch rated for my amps & volts or equal to the original switch that was in it. Would this diagram be the correct way to wire it?



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[john-100]

a single pole on off switch across terminals 1C and COM3 is all you need

but for added safety how about a " no volt release switch "

if you lost power to the lathe while its running , it will stop it restarting when the power is restored
unless you pushed the start button again !

basically its a combined switch and relay

when you push the green button the solenoid holds the switch on while the mains supply is available
with the version with the extra terminal A1 ,you can add normally closed emergency stop switches and / or interlock switches
the info is for one from RS Components , but I think the likes of Little Machine Shop has one

using the no volt switch you would connect the switched Neutral to COM1 and U2
and the switched Live (Hot) to COM2 and U1 in your last diagram

[TheButcher69]

a single pole on off switch across terminals 1C and COM3 is all you need

but for added safety how about a " no volt release switch "

if you lost power to the lathe while its running , it will stop it restarting when the power is restored
unless you pushed the start button again !

basically its a combined switch and relay

when you push the green button the solenoid holds the switch on while the mains supply is available
with the version with the extra terminal A1 ,you can add normally closed emergency stop switches and / or interlock switches
the info is for one from RS Components , but I think the likes of Little Machine Shop has one

using the no volt switch you would connect the switched Neutral to COM1 and U2
and the switched Live (Hot) to COM2 and U1 in your last diagram

That would be a nice thing to have John but they gave such small space I don't think I could fit that with a toggle & wiring. But I'm sure I could make a new house for it when I get more time. So I wouldn't need a jumper wire from com2 to com1? Just wire the motor to com1 & the hot wire to the on/off switch?

[john-100]

do you have the space to fit a rotory switch like item 3378 fron Littlemachineshop.com ?

its 2.3" long and 1.9" diameter

basically it a rotory version of the switch I first suggested
you can always add the no-volt switch later


John

[TheButcher69]

do you have the space to fit a rotory switch like item 3378 fron Littlemachineshop.com ?

its 2.3" long and 1.9" diameter

basically it a rotory version of the switch I first suggested
you can always add the no-volt switch later


John

John that very similar to my old switch I was trying to describe! Thank you for posting it!

[john-100]

If the switch you have is the old " drum switch " that used to be used

the next diagram may help

John

[TheButcher69]

If the switch you have is the old " drum switch " that used to be used

the next diagram may help

John

Honestly John I have no idea if it were a drum switch. If I were to guess I'd say probably because it does resemble your diagram. I'll say this you really know your electrical! I'm fairly good with DC & I know I shouldn't have a problem with AC but for some reason I do. I think alot has to do with the possiblity of being electrocuted.

[Bob La Londe]

I know this may be a bit late to help, but I recently acquired this same lathe. In my search for how to fix some of its problems somebody gave me this link to the original manual in PDF format.

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/man...1999/31316.pdf

I glanced through it and it looks like switch wiring is included in the manual.