[Arbo]

CNC Router's can double as planers, they're just not quite as fast.

Well, there is slight cupping, so I need to figure out where to 'hold' it down in order to cut that out of it... can't just clamp it all down as when it's released the cupping would still be there.

[LouF]

Well, there is slight cupping, so I need to figure out where to 'hold' it down in order to cut that out of it... can't just clamp it all down as when it's released the cupping would still be there.

Cupping can be taken out with a jointer easy.


Lou

[Arbo]

Cupping can be taken out with a jointer easy.


Lou

Perhaps 'cupping' was the wrong term... it's a 1x12x8... across the 12", it curves a bit.

Unfortunately I don't have a jointer, planer, table saw or band saw.. most of my work area is my machine.

[LouF]

Perhaps 'cupping' was the wrong term... it's a 1x12x8... across the 12", it curves a bit.

Unfortunately I don't have a jointer, planer, table saw or band saw.. most of my work area is my machine.

I don't have them all as well just some of them..

[Ailmik]

I bought two of the vac-clamps so I would be able to dress my own timber, well and truly paid for themselves after several pieces of raw timber. Takes a bit of time but the timber comes out perfect. Just a little unnerving when the compressor cuts in.

Cheers
Kim

[Arbo]

So how does that work? How do you true out your timber using them?

[ger21]

I use cam clamps, which hold from the sides. by using scrap wood for spacers, you don't have to worry about hitting the clamps.
I'd put the convex side up and take off about half the cup, then flip it and flatten completely, then flip again to flatten the entire opposite side.

[louieatienza]

I use cam clamps, which hold from the sides. by using scrap wood for spacers, you don't have to worry about hitting the clamps.
I'd put the convex side up and take off about half the cup, then flip it and flatten completely, then flip again to flatten the entire opposite side.

Gerry, where do you source your cam clamps from? I've seen some, but they're either relatively pricy (Techno) or relatively crappily made (Grizzly)?

[Drools]

Louie, I can't remember if you have T-slot on your table or not but if you do you can use what I use.
I cut 2 pieces of wardwood long enough to span 2 of my t-slots, size would be 2"wide by 7" long. I use these pieces of hardwood as clamps. I put a piece of double sided 80grit sand paper between the stock and the clamp to make sure the stock stays in place. It has been working great for me, but I would like to find a good bit that would make the job go by faster. Even at 150IPM and a .5" EM it can take a few minutes to surface a 10"x24" board.
I use a couple of long bar-clamps to get a good pressure on the clamps and stock before tightening the clamps down.

[CarveOne]

I modified the 3D Finishing tool path to change it from Raster to Offset just to see if the different behavior stops all the short quivering/hopping actions I see when cutting the first of this particular Celtic cross design. It did, and the results look about the same as with Raster.

The total cut time was reduced by 15 minutes because now it follows the cross shape while rounding it over instead of going back and forth across the hump that makes up the cross shape. It spends more time running near the 100 ipm feed rate. This is how I will cut any additional ones.

I expected the Raster operation to sweep from one side to the other side of the cross design, and it does sort of do that. It works on one section for a short while and then goes to another section, and so on, working its way from bottom to top. It still looks like crap when the 3D Finishing tool path is completed. It looks a lot better after the Vcarve tool path operation cleans out the unwanted stuff.

Attached are a couple photos of it, as cut, no sanding has been done.

[CarveOne]

I use a regular old 3/4" Bosch router bit for planing my table and P box tops when they need it. If the Z axis is perpendicular it leaves very little to no ridges to sand off. A large diameter surface plane cutter needs much more precise perpendicularity or it leaves deeper ridges for the same error, just less ridges.
Take shallow cuts and fasten it down well so that it doesn't rip up the material and throw it through the wall (or at you).

[Drools]

I agree with you there C1, you will get small ridges if the Z is not penpendicular. I get a great finish when I plane my stock, it is just the time it takes that I would like to minimize. I don't cut to full depth each pass, my max cut has been .05 with a final cut of .01 so at 5 minutes a side you can get into 20 minutes of planing per piece of stock, thats not including time to flip, and reset Z-zero between cuts.
I do have a 12" 2 blade planer, (cheap C-tire one) it works well and I sometimes use to get close to the thickness I want then finish the stock on the CNC, however I usually only use it for softwoods.

[Arbo]

well, I used wood blocks on the sides of the cedar board to hold it in place, but not down, and planed one side nice a slow so it cut and didn't push down, seemed to work ok, the other side is running now. Cedar is strange, I get LOADS of big chips and rip outs, but the surface and edges of the cuts is nice and smooth.

[Ailmik]

Didn't want to clog C1's log. PM sent to Arbo. Beautiful job on the Celtic Cross C1.
Cheers
Kim

[Arbo]

Didn't want to clog C1's log. PM sent to Arbo. Beautiful job on the Celtic Cross C1.
Cheers
Kim

This thread should be retitled 'where the cool kids hang out'.

[CarveOne]

Didn't want to clog C1's log. PM sent to Arbo. Beautiful job on the Celtic Cross C1.
Cheers
Kim

Thanks Ailmik!

I sanded and stained the pocketed area and cross area since my last post. Later tonight I'll add some stain to the remainder of the wood and buff it off. Tomorrow morning I'll spray some polyurethane on it.

[Arbo]

Looking good C1.

Someone (Gerry I think) suggested paint thinner to wipe the surface to clean off some of the jell stain. I have xylol, tried that on some scrap, works like a charm. Are there any 'side effects' to doing such a thing? Need to give it a lot of time to evaporate/dry away before final coats?

[CarveOne]

This thread should be retitled 'where the cool kids hang out'.

I noticed that, but didn't want to ruin the party. Sometimes I learn something useful.

There is a Woodworking Projects forum over in the far lower left corner of CNC Zone here. There's not a lot going on there since it isn't so prominent.

It would be nice to have a new forum under CNC Wood Router Project Log called "Now that you built it, what'cha making with it?" or some other more appropriate name like "Clubhouse for CNC Projects" for various things we're making with our completed machines.

[CarveOne]

Looking good C1.

Someone (Gerry I think) suggested paint thinner to wipe the surface to clean off some of the jell stain. I have xylol, tried that on some scrap, works like a charm. Are there any 'side effects' to doing such a thing? Need to give it a lot of time to evaporate/dry away before final coats?

I'm the culprit who recommends paint thinner. As long as the gel stain is oil based any type of solvent that cleans it off without taking off or softening the polyurethane or other finish under it - and doesn't prevent other finish from sticking to the wood - and doesn't kill you - is probably ok.

Paint thinner will dissolve clumps of gel stain back into the solution. It dries off the surface fairly quickly after it is wiped off. Some solvents will "cut" the oil based products, but doesn't really mix well with it and dissolve it. It breaks it up into flaky looking stuff.

[ger21]

Gerry, where do you source your cam clamps from? I've seen some, but they're either relatively pricy (Techno) or relatively crappily made (Grizzly)?

I made them from some scrap pine. One end is round, with an offset hole.
Bolt it down to the table, and turn to tighten.