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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2392
    Those motors are only small, size 17 and 4.4kg-cm (61 oz-in).

    They MAY do for a 10" by 9" machine (or any small machine) but you would need fine thread rod to get any decent torque, and you won't get a lot of speed.

    I think before commtting to those tiny motors it would be worth looking at larger motors (at least size 23) because they won't cost that much more.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    0
    Roman
    thanks for the reply
    I was almost hearing you say that as I posted!
    will look at the 23s and see what's cooking there

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2392
    I guess that's like the CNC version of the "the force".

    "Feel the force"... "Feel that you need bigger motors - empty your mind and see those bigger motors... "

    "... then feel that you need more speed and more cutting power... and a vacuum dust extractor"

    Well it's something like that.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    0
    @Roman yes I feel the farce oops force

    few steps forwards and a few steps backwards today
    started the actual building

    Y support rails (Mk I as it turned out)

    had to get larger tubing - worked sooo much better
    built the Y supports and Y table

    then found that the trucks on the Y table were lifting off at one end
    had to "adjust the spacing" at one end with a couple of washers

    now runs fairly freely in both directions

    lots of extra holes in the Y table as, with larger tube, the trucks are closer together, so the holes were all in the wrong place
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMAG0121.jpg   IMAG0122.jpg   IMAG0123.jpg   IMAG0124.jpg  

    IMAG0125.jpg   IMAG0126.jpg   IMAG0127.jpg  

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2392
    That's looking pretty solid!

    I take it that is the base and moving table part? I'm not sure how big the table will be on top of that carriage but you might have a bit too much overhang for good rigidity.

    If so, you could space the bearings further apart and reduce the moving table travel. Sometimes it's better to have a bit less travel and a lot more rigidity.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    0
    yup indeed
    exactly as you describe

    added the drive rod etc today
    had to make more mods to the table due to the increased support rail size
    may well go back and redo the table once the dust has settled
    (or perhaps add a thin sacrificial MDF layer that I can mill flat)

    but for now it does at least move backwards and forwards when you turn the screw

    have glued and screwed all the wooden parts
    tomorrow, when it's all dry, I'll araldite the drive nut in place
    it's actually just a very thick nut - intended to connect two screwed rods together
    seems to have almost no backlash

    the actual table won't be much wider then what you see, so no worries there

    they do say you do learn from your mistakes - I have learnt a helluva lot on this project! :devious:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMAG0128.jpg  

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    0
    ok, looking at motors again
    will need them soon as the build is moving along nicely!

    I'm minded to get these NEMA 23 steppers (after feedback from Roman!)
    with these couplers

    thoughts, opinions, contributions, donations, ...

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2392
    They're nice motors and with double shafts so you can add handles, that's always useful.

    With the couplings I'd prefer one piece couplings, the 2 piece ones like those can get slop and backlash especially after some wear.

    Re the nut and gluing it in place it's good to have some adjustment. Like glue the nut to a piece of flat stock, then screw the stock onto the table in a way that the holes are a little enlarged so you can loosen the screws and align it and tighten the screws back up. Otherwise if you commit to gluing the nut and you get some binding it's going to be harder to fix.

    I like to have alignment clearance on the stepper motor screws, and on the leadnut if possible.

    PS. It's a shame you don't have more people commenting on your build. I think (like in my build thread) once you put "small" or "desktop" in the thread title most of the wood guys won't even look at the thread. They all like massive machines they can cut doors and walls on.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    8082
    Quote Originally Posted by RomanLini View Post
    They're nice motors and with double shafts so you can add handles, that's always useful.

    With the couplings I'd prefer one piece couplings, the 2 piece ones like those can get slop and backlash especially after some wear.

    Re the nut and gluing it in place it's good to have some adjustment. Like glue the nut to a piece of flat stock, then screw the stock onto the table in a way that the holes are a little enlarged so you can loosen the screws and align it and tighten the screws back up. Otherwise if you commit to gluing the nut and you get some binding it's going to be harder to fix.

    I like to have alignment clearance on the stepper motor screws, and on the leadnut if possible.

    PS. It's a shame you don't have more people commenting on your build. I think (like in my build thread) once you put "small" or "desktop" in the thread title most of the wood guys won't even look at the thread. They all like massive machines they can cut doors and walls on.
    Hey, I look at them all. Anything good can be scaled up.

    CarveOne
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by RomanLini View Post
    They're nice motors and with double shafts so you can add handles, that's always useful.

    With the couplings I'd prefer one piece couplings, the 2 piece ones like those can get slop and backlash especially after some wear.

    Re the nut and gluing it in place it's good to have some adjustment. Like glue the nut to a piece of flat stock, then screw the stock onto the table in a way that the holes are a little enlarged so you can loosen the screws and align it and tighten the screws back up. Otherwise if you commit to gluing the nut and you get some binding it's going to be harder to fix.

    I like to have alignment clearance on the stepper motor screws, and on the leadnut if possible.

    PS. It's a shame you don't have more people commenting on your build. I think (like in my build thread) once you put "small" or "desktop" in the thread title most of the wood guys won't even look at the thread. They all like massive machines they can cut doors and walls on.
    thanks for the feedback
    I'll look again at couplers

    as for the nut - the plan is to glue it to a piece of flat stock that is in turn bolted to the table with adjustments - so I got that bit right!!!

    PS
    I do appreciate all the feedback you've given - cheers!
    Not planning on anything that big, initially PCBs, then possibly 3D printing
    but I can already see the second machine and I haven't finished the first yet!

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by CarveOne View Post
    Hey, I look at them all. Anything good can be scaled up.

    CarveOne
    welcome to the party, pull up a chair, grab a beer!

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1806
    I'm enjoying your thread and trying to use it to get some ideas for a small router I am building. Every time I think I have the design nailed, changes are made. Hopefully now all is in lockdown if I don't find more mistakes like I have int he past two days. Hope to start cutting parts this week!
    Art
    AKA Country Bubba (Older Than Dirt)

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Bubba View Post
    I'm enjoying your thread and trying to use it to get some ideas for a small router I am building. Every time I think I have the design nailed, changes are made. Hopefully now all is in lockdown if I don't find more mistakes like I have int he past two days. Hope to start cutting parts this week!
    cheers!

    know how you feel
    I decided to go with a tried and tested design
    yet I'm still having to make changes to fit what I can get

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    0
    had another good day in the garage
    steps[forward] > steps[backwards]

    big issue is using US plans with metric materials
    I've now taken to offering parts up before cutting/drilling
    making some headway

    I've ordered 3 off NEMA 23 steppers - should be here any day
    that means I can drill the remaining support holes and go for the final (mechanical) push
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMAG0129.jpg  

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2392
    It's finally looking like a machine! Congrats.

    It is a good feeling when it starts moving under it's own power. Then comes all that annoying alignment...

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by RomanLini View Post
    It's finally looking like a machine! Congrats.

    It is a good feeling when it starts moving under it's own power. Then comes all that annoying alignment...
    thanks : proud :

    I've been trying to keep it square, flat, aligned as I go, but I expect I'll find out just how far out it is once I start aligning it properly!

    The black block it's standing on is an old "granite" kitchen work top - so that's been my reference flat surface

    sooooo pleased I managed to borrow a mitre saw
    made cutting the wood so easy, and far more accurate than I could ever achieve by hand

    already I'm seeing limitations in this machine, Mk II is already forming itself in my mind. Mk I could well find its first job is reproduction!!

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    0
    a very nice man with a very nice van just knocked on my door!
    now the possessor of 3 NEMA-23 steppers!

    just need more than 5 minutes in a row to fit them!

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1955
    Hi, I like your machine, its progress, and the learning I am doing from it.

    That being said, I have a tendency to read the build logs section and forget about the builds that are posted in this section. Maybe someday I will figure out why some are posted here and others in the build section.

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    331
    Because people (like me) screwed up and posted in the wrong place.

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    0
    been working on the electronics recently (easier to fit in the lulls in the day job)

    now - a question for you

    I have three driver boards each 2" by 4" to be mounted in and old PC case
    the power chip on each has a heat sink

    new shiny PC power pack will supply the volts and amps

    am I better blowing air over the heatsink and letting it find it's own way out of the enclosure?
    OR
    sucking air past the heatsink directly to the outside world?

    (if pushed I could, of course, do both!)

    supplementary
    the heatsinks are plain finned aluminium
    is there any merit in painting them (matt) black to aid heat dispersal?
    OR
    will the paint make it worse?

    answers on a postcard please!

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