[diyengineer]

The viper is receiving 109Volts input. It has proper 12V power, and the encoder is correctly attached to the servo. I have tried all 3 servos with no luck. In hyperterminal i can enable and disable power to the servo with the X and O command but i cant feel the motor actually turn on at all, or make any audible sound. Also a multimeter on the DC output verifies no voltage going out at all..
I wanted to start to program the loop parameter, but then found that none of the drivers are outputting power. I have NO jumpers in the banks, so im running it in "test" mode. I have also disconnected it from the breakoutboard. Hyperterminal can speak to all of them but no power output... Also i used the "M" command to see if my encoders were working and i can turn the pulley and the m command does not change any position...

sometimes i get a FAST flashing red, sometimes a slow flashing red LED. You never mentioned what they stood for in the PDF...

thanks for the help!

[diyengineer]

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ic3cbsBYPuQ"]YouTube - Cnc Rebuild Video #41[/nomedia]

Video.

Also.. After lots of investigating. The encoders were not wired correctly, well they were all the way to the viper driver, but i spliced them incorrectly into the serial connector (DB9). I will have to resolder/rewire and try again.. Hopefully it did not fry anything, encoder or driver... ****..

Viper encoder Pinout:
pin1 5V
pin2 B-
pin3 B+
pin4 A-
pin5 A+
pin6 not used
pin7 not used
pin8 not used
pin9 Ground

How NOT to wire it
Pin1 B+
Pin2 B-
Pin3 5V
Pin4 A+
Pin5 A-
Pin6 not used
Pin7 not used
Pin8 not used
Pin9 Gnd

I was basically feeding 5V into my B+ channel.. and i'm 100% sure i did that on each and every encoder. Do you think the encoders will be ok? The other channels were all mis matched, and ground was the only thing that was connected correctly.
That is what i get for working late and starting wiring on 2 sides of the machine at once and having them not match. (nuts)

Also shot an email to US digital asking them if i damaged the B+ channel. I read my 5V has 250ma of power.

[Larken]

From the video, it shows your encoder is not working.
When you turn the motor shaft, you should have the m command show a change, and it doesn't. BTW, it doesn't auto update, you have to keep hitting 'm' to read it again.

So, be sure to get the motor reading the encoder before you even apply the 105 volts, or you will just have a run away situation. You only need the 12volt and the encoder connected to do the test.

Arn't those Keling motors rated at 90 volts max ?

Larry K

[Al_The_Man]

Also.. After lots of investigating. The encoders were not wired correctly, well they were all the way to the viper driver, but i spliced them incorrectly into the serial connector (DB9). I will have to resolder/rewire and try again.. Hopefully it did not fry anything, encoder or driver... ****..

I was basically feeding 5V into my B+ channel.. and i'm 100% sure i did that on each and every encoder. Do you think the encoders will be ok? .

You may be lucky, it will depend somewhat on the nature of the encoder outputs.
109v supply for motors rated at 90v should not be a problem, in fact the typical design criteria is power supply rated at least 10% above motor rated voltage.
There is a drive in between.
Power-Supply Considerations For Servo Amplifiers
Al.

[diyengineer]

SO i figured out the settings pretty well.

P- 550
I- 4
D- 1100
LP- 4

They hold extremely hard.

All the encoders are also working well.

I tuned each drive and saved the information to the Eprom (slot 1).

With 105V input, do those numbers sound about right Larry?

I started the P @ 100 and worked up 50 at a time grabbing the shaft trying to turn it. at 550 it finally oscillated like crazy. then i worked up the D to 700 and it was solid. does it have to be twice the value of P? Will 700 be ok? Is to much not good?

I chose a LP of 4 because it was a number for the NEMA 34 frame recommendation in the manual.

The I i purely chose 4 because i have no clue how it effects the motor. I turned it to 20 and it had no effect when it came to holding. I kept it at 4.

Using these servos:
http://www.kelinginc.net/KL34-180-90.pdf

:stickpoke
take a peek at the servo link then my numbers and see if all looks like it should be. I'm sure they will require a lot more tuning once on the machine, but i want to get them as close as possible.

Thank you Larry

[diyengineer]

It seems that i am also missing one potentiometer on each board...

[Larken]

The L parameter is loop time or samples/second of the servo loop. the values can be 1-10 1 is fastest and 10 is slowest. Typically a heaver mass resonds better to a slower sampling time.

On your motors, the setting could be 3-6 depending on the mass of the load. You need to change this while the motor is stepped back and forth and look for the deadest responce (with least ringing). (it is harder when you have a gearhead and can't see the motor shaft)

Yes, your drives have Lowvoltage detection which removes one of the pots. (the current warn)

Also, I would put no higher than a 7.5 amp fuse in the drive since those motors fry easily. I use that motor on my routers, and have fried a few . The armature can't take a lot of heat and running at such a high voltage makes it worse.

Larry

[diyengineer]

Now i have the whole machine moving

I have a rough tune on the PID, but i need a way to truly tune it. I'm slightly lost.

The L parameter is loop time or samples/second of the servo loop. the values can be 1-10 1 is fastest and 10 is slowest. Typically a heaver mass resonds better to a slower sampling time.

On your motors, the setting could be 3-6 depending on the mass of the load. You need to change this while the motor is stepped back and forth and look for the deadest responce (with least ringing). (it is harder when you have a gearhead and can't see the motor shaft)

Yes, your drives have Lowvoltage detection which removes one of the pots. (the current warn)

Also, I would put no higher than a 7.5 amp fuse in the drive since those motors fry easily. I use that motor on my routers, and have fried a few . The armature can't take a lot of heat and running at such a high voltage makes it worse.

Larry

[diyengineer]

Can you please post all the Error numbers and what they pertain to.

Thanks!