[rwskinner]

Very Nice setup Ron!! Love the pulley design. I started to split mypulleys and bolt the stack together so I could change ratios if I wanted pretty easy but I decided not to. I left enough room for that in case I decide to later.

I like the pockets as well. Makes them look very professional!
BTW, I went with a 4" and 2.25" Pitch line on mine.

Richard

Richard,
I think a 3/16" broach will work just fine for your pulley's. That is the size I am using on my conversion with the same motor you have, and it fits the slot just fine. After reading Gary's thread, I think I goofed by using a J6 belt but I have room to change to J8 pulley's if I encounter slippage. You're conversion looks GREAT. Have fun with it.
Ron Endecott

[endo47]

Richard and Pete, thank you for your kind compliments. I have not started my own thread due to lack of time to work on this project, but I hope this will change soon. Richard, I think GD placed his set screw "in the grooves" and his appears to be working nicely. I thank you all for your inspiring work.
endo47

[rwskinner]

I picked up 1-1/2 old Southbend Lathe tool post grinders from a fellow Zoner and started fixing them up. Not a bad little project. I still need to finish grinding, clean up and paint but it seems to work great.

I'm not much of a welder but I scabbed together a belt and wheel guard from some flat plate I had laying around. I cut strips out of the plate the formed them for the belt and wheel guard portions then welded.

I took one of my messy shop with welding stuff scattered....

Here goes....

[gd.marsh]

Richard,

Nice job on the wheel /belt guard .. looks great.
I am exceedingly envious of the room in your shop. I've gotten so packed into my 2 car garage that I can hardly turn around anymore ...

Gary

[jid2]

^^^ Me too - some day. I'm dealing with the 2 car garage as well, but mine needs to be able to pull the cars in every night. No way my wife is giving up her parking space, and I'm not leaving my race car out in the driveway...

I'll be excited once I get to the belt drive section of my build, because it's scheduled for the end!

[Maglin]

You did a great job on that belt guard. And I am really envious of your work space. I need to get my race car out of my garage to free up space to work.

[rwskinner]

Just waiting on the broaches. They are suppose to be in Wednesday but of course I'll be out of town.

I couldn't stand it so I re-did that spindle pulley.

[hoss2006]

Beautiful!
Hoss

[rwskinner]

Thanks Hoss!

[rwskinner]

Thanks, it gets small in a hurry. 30' x 50' and I usually park the motor home in there but it hasn't been in there all summer. My wife told me to build a 40x60 but I didn't think I needed anything that big. Anytime a woman tells you to go ahead and get the full deal you ought to go for it, but I was being too tight.

The main shop is 30'x50' then I have a 30"x 25' extension, insulated and cooled on one side, and I'm thinking about another 30'x25' add on.

Richard

You did a great job on that belt guard. And I am really envious of your work space. I need to get my race car out of my garage to free up space to work.

[cornbinder23]

Exceptional work Skinner!! My what a nice shop and list of toys you have!!
Your conversion is looking great its going to be a beast when its done

JTCUSTOMS

[pete from TN]

Hey man sweet shop dude!! I got a lot of the same machines just not the same ROOM!!.... My shop is only 25x30 basically a largish 2 car garage. The cars are never inside tho unless I am working on them. Since I got rid of the woodworking equipment I have tons of room now. I have the two lathes, the CNC, a large commercial Tig unit , a mig, bandsaws, grinders, sanders, press, upright compressor, drill press, welding tables, benches, roll around tool boxes, etc. etc. If I ever get that VMC I am always squalking about it will probably be a little more full then but right now I am pretty happy. I am doing a lot of Tig welding lately fabbing all sorts of stuff. Got a fellow that is supposed to be bringing his Harley over on Wednesday for me to tig weld part of his frame. The nice thing about your shop also is the high ceiling. Mine has a 9.5' ceiling which is nice and I have a HUGE storage attik above the shop that is where all my crap is kept. My wife is always telling me I should make some room up there and put some of my machinery upstairs but I am too lazy to build a set of reasonable stairs. It sure would be nice tho. The roof is like a crazy steep pitch so the head height in there is so high I can stand on an 8' ladder on the top rung and still not be able to reach the trusses at their peak. It is also fully insulated and altho I have yet to skin the walls with drywall or whatever once it is warm inside it does tend to stay warm at least for a little while. The bad news is it is on a concrete slab and no matter how much I seal off the shop the cold creeps in and the floor is damn cold in the winter.
I usually crank up my forced air kerosene heater for around 30 minutes and let it super heat the space until I can stand to go out there without a sweater. Then I turn that monster off and plug in the electric heaters and it usually will maintain the comfort from then on. It also helps If I do not try to go out there and work in the very early morning so the sun can warm up the ground a little. Either way it sucks in the winter because I am paying to be warm enough to work out there. Still beats working in that huge steel building I used to work in as a Pro-woodworker. That damn thing STAYED cold no matter what you did or how you tried to heat it. I used to go to work wearing thermals, two layers of clothes, heavy jackets, and warm mittens with fingers cutoff just to be able to work. THAT SUCKED!! I can't wait to move back to Florida where it is always warm in the shop and I can hopefully use a window AC unit to stay cool. I guess no matter where you live there is some kinda compromise with weather. haha peace

Oh BTW, nice work on the Toolpost grinder....

Pete

[LUCKY13]

LOL, here I had to sale my 30X12 to save the house. So now I am in a room in the house. Oh well, atleast its warm in the winter & cool in the summer. For now I dont have enough of anything to need more room.


Yea, your pulley's look very nice. This shuold work great.



Jess

[pete from TN]

There was a time when I rented our home and I talked the landlord into letting me put my machines into a spare bedroom. I put sheets of 3/4 plywood over the carpet and taped around the edges and seams. Then I put my homebuilt wood mill stand in there and put my 12x36 lathe in there too as well as my bandsaw and press. I was pretty careful and machined all sorts of stuff in there for over five years and got my full deposit back when we moved. Actually the carpet looked brand new under that wood. Oh yeah we also put down some plastic sheeting under the wood in case fluids leached thru. That room's carpet was the cleanest in the house when we left haha... Hardest part was actually getting the RF45 and lathe in there. I used some heavy duty furniture dollies and a lot of patience but I got it in there. Used my Engine crane to put the mill on it's stand inside the room. Where there is a will there is a way....

I sure like having a shop now tho that is all mine... Way nicer!! peace

Pete

[rwskinner]

I'm going to have to do some trimming somewhere. The splines on the spindle only stick up out of my pulley by a 1/4". I see where I can easly trim another 0.375" off and that will allow 0.500" worth of threads and a little clearance on my Spindle Nut.

This is the nut/hub my PDB will pull against. I think with 1/2" worth of fine threads and a shoulder for the nut to butt against when tight, and a set screw ought to handle the pressure okay. Opinions?

My only "other" option is to machine some off the shoulder on the bottom of the spindle cartridge but I rather not do that unless I have to.

Richard

[gd.marsh]

Richard,

I would be nervous about 1/2" of threads with 2000+ lbs. pulling against it.
Suppose there's some information to be found on the net that will give you an idea of the pull strength of various threads per inch?

On a side note: I still haven't pulled my mill back apart to deal with the backlash issues but I now know for sure the Z ballnut mount is loose & is rocking up & down a bit. I'm a little surprised by that because I've got 3 bolts holding that mount to the Z slide. Only thing I can figure is that since the problem has been there from the beginning, I may have experienced a brain fart & failed to fully tighten the bolts before attaching the head.

You're pulleys do look great & I'll agree with Pete, you're going to LOVE the belt drive!

[rwskinner]

Yes, if the nut/hub was in aluminum I would really be worried. In steel I'd like to get a little more but I'm not sure without some serous machine work.

I'm setting my drawbar up for 2800# and planned on using fine threads, Like a 1.100" - 18 thread and making the nut out of either 4140 or stress proof steel. I was looking at the Bearing Retainer Nuts and they are only 15/32" thick.

With only the splines being threaded and not a full contact thread it continues to make things weaker.

How much is your nut threaded on?


I have two choices or combinations of the two.

1) On the bottom of my head, I have a 1/2" boss that the quill sits against. If I could flip my head upside down, I may be able to manage taking 0.250" off of that and my quill would ride 1/4" higher. That would be okay *If* the SX3 will go up 14".

2) Do away with the nut for my Top Pulley on the spindle and just use a couple of set screws on the keyway, OR, just turn my nut down until I only have about 4 threads to hold the spindle pulley on.

The RongFu really made things a tad more complicated. Have you seen the top of my spindle head cover? It's not nice and flat like all of yours. It has a 45 degree bevel all the way around that is a good 1/2" in and 1/2" down. Then it has a large boss for the top quil drive bearing and seal, and one for the motor as well.

Richard

[rwskinner]

Instead of the 1.100"-18 threads and only having the splines threaded, I was looking and there is enough meat to remove the splines on the very end and do an 0.900"-32 thread with full contact.

Opinions?

Richard

[pete from TN]

Mine is the same way except that raised portion is removable. It is still sitting on my shelf over here. I am planning to actually make the spring stack housed in it's own casing that will keep them clean and it will all act against the top of the spindle and it will only surround the spindle with a small flange to keep it aligned. That way you do not need to worry about threading the splines nor the strength and I personally feel that the fact that this will sit atop it may help to dislodge the toolholder a bit better. There are many ways to accomplish this scissors action on the PDB as you have seen I am sure. Good luck and peace

Pete

[rwskinner]

okay, I had no idea there was that much to figuring in bolt and nut strength.

I will be using 1144 Stress Proof Cold Drawn Steel @ 115,000 PSI, Equiv. close to Grade 8. Using a 0.900"-32 Thread, with thread engagement of 1 times the diameter, the clamping force is rated for 35,000#.

2800# looks like an easy job compared to the above ratings. Also, keep in mind that the first few threads carry the majority of the load.

I think I will gamble, get what additional room I can easily, thread the beast and try it. If it comes apart I can go to Plan B.

RIchard