[rwskinner]

Yes, I did that on my SX3 in order to keep the Spring washers lined up. It helped a lot on vibration and finish. I call it a top hat !!

Richard

I am planning to actually make the spring stack housed in it's own casing that will keep them clean and it will all act against the top of the spindle and it will only surround the spindle with a small flange to keep it aligned.
Pete

[pete from TN]

That is what I call it as well...haha peace

Pete

[gd.marsh]

Yep .. after suggesting it I also did some searching & realized there's WAY more to it than number of threads & type of material.
On my machine it is just the splines that are threaded but I've got a good 1"+ of threaded contact with the pull flange & plan on starting at 2200# pressure.
I'm with you on this thing .. if it don't work .. figure out something that will!

[Maglin]

You could turn down the splines at the top for say 2-3" to it's root diameter. Now you can make your PDB nut to go inside the pulley as well as hold it on with a shoulder. On the top of the nut would be where you make your groove for your PDB to put force on. I would make it fairly large so as to cover up the spring stack and also locate the springs on center. Since you are not using your quill you don't need the top splines on the spindle. This is how I was planning on accomplishing the PDB topper for the spindle.

If you have the spring stack act on this "top hat" then you might not even need to thread it on at all. 2000 lbs of force might just be enough to kept everything together. Then you wouldn't have to worry about getting it off the spindle when it comes time to take it apart.

[rwskinner]

Where did you all buy your Kluber Grease at?

Richard

[hoss2006]

Search the Kluber Shop Online
for the Isoflex NBU-15, you need
to create an account to see the pricing and order.
A 50 gram tube will go a long way.
Hoss

[endo47]

Could you use a thick spacer for your drawbar/quill spacer to gain the disc spring clearance?

[rwskinner]

Thaks Hoss, I ordered some. I thought it was available from other sources as well and just wanted the best price.

Endo, I guess I could but I wanted the spindle threaded so I'm dislodging my collet at the same time. I ended up trimming here and there and got a good 3/4" of threads and also opened up my spindle drive ID some so I could get another 3/4" or so down inside. The internal portion will only have a 0.150 wall but the section above the pulley will have lots of beef. Hopefully Maglin's idea will get me that additional thread.

I'll shoot a couple pics later. I just got finished turning and threading the spindle. I'm polishing bearing fits right now.


SKF bearings everywhere on this mill and then they used KBC bearings in the spindle. I've heard of them before but I don't know if they are any good or not.


Richard

[rwskinner]

Got some SKF Bearings ordered. The KBC are made by FAG Bearing but they only had like a 5100 RPM rating. The SKF are a couple thousand RPM higher.

Here are the threads on the end of the spindle, 7/8"-20. Looking at it, 0.760" above the pulley and another 0.750" in the pulley. There is just enough room for a thin wall nut.

[endo47]

Richard, VERY NICE!. Looks like you have a great plan. Thanks for sharing and looking forward to watching your progress.
Ron

[rwskinner]

What is a good material to make a new draw bar out of? I have to extend mine now.

Both pulleys are broached and the keyway milled. I made a custom key 0.375" wide by 0.275" tall due to the lack of wall thickness in the pulley and spindle adapter.

It's all pressed together and I test ran the motor at 5400 RPM all the way down to 50 RPM and smooth as silk.

There appears to be a tad bit of run out on the spindle pulley. I didn't measure it yet. I machined it all without removing it, except for facing the other side so maybe that is what I'm seeing.

I won't be back until Saturday. I have a long 17 hour job in Dallas tomorrow and then TG at my sisters. When I get back, it's time to start milling the mill's top cover nice and flat and put some ledges on it, then make some brackets.

Sure wish I could make all this on the RF45 instead of the SX3. It would go so much faster!!


Still to do:

A) Draw the brackets up in CAD.

B) Mill both sides of the top cover flat and then mill a ledge 0.125 deep down the sides for the brackets to sit on.

C) Mill the 1/2" plate side brackets. Both the motor mount and PDB will sit on these two brackets.

D) Make a Top Hat for my washers and PDB.

E) Make a longer drawbar.


Pictures in a few days.


Richard

[rwskinner]

Thanks. Those threads actually look good and feel good in person. The picture make it look a little ratty. I think it's because at 0.875" O.D. the splines did not totally clean up. There was maybe 0.005-0.010" of the splines left.

Richard

Richard, VERY NICE!. Looks like you have a great plan. Thanks for sharing and looking forward to watching your progress.
Ron

[gd.marsh]

Richard,

I bought a length of 7/16-20 hardened all thread & a couple grade 8 nuts .. Wound up only using one nut because I made a second one to match the taper on the inside of the piece I put on the cylinder ..

[Starleper1]

I've made drawbars from stainless, and they hold up really well. Preferably 304. You could probably get away with 303 though.

[Maglin]

Wouldn't some 1045 heat treated work out just fine for a drawbar? Really only need to heat treat the threads and the head where the cylinder is going to be acting on it. Then the center won't be so brittle/hard and have a little spring to it so it doesn't snap. It is what I was planning to make mine out of once the PDB is ready to go on.

Richard your nut job looks great to me. It's amazing how the camera really can make a good looking job not look so good. I think it looks great. How you went about it is how I pretty much envisioned it. Kept the updates coming. I need more time to work on mine.

[rwskinner]

Okay, a little bulky looking but It allows me to get my fat fingers in there. A tad over 7000 RPM at 130 hz.

I have to start on the PDB parts next. My Fabco cylinder is a 3 stage, 4" with quick return (Another Single acting cylinder for return) and it's a Top Mount so I have to machine new end plates for it.

I thought about removing the piston from the quick return and adding a spring so I don't have to have 2 way air.

[eartaker]

HAHA nice I like it... It reminds me of the Roman Aqueducts.

[rwskinner]

Yep. looks a little Roman to me as well.

You know, that threaded flange that goes on the spindle doesn't see the full 2500# or whatever on it, It only see's the pressure it takes to pop the collet loose from it's taper.

If it was not screwed on the the spindle at all, like Pete said, the sissor action would depress the springs, then the weight of the cylinder would have to unseat the collet.

So you can see this whole ordeal on how many threads and what type of material was way overkill.


Richard

[gd.marsh]

Yea, but that's half the fun in these projects .. Figuring that stuff out!
Looking good Richard .

[gd.marsh]

Richard,

Just re-read your last post about the scissor action depressing the springs and it got me to thinking .. that would depend upon the springs resting on top of the flange wouldn't it?
In my case they don't. The Belleville washers sit directly on top of the spindle so there would be no scissor action without the flange being threaded to the spindle.