[fgwilson99]

Hey there, I have an AXYZ 6010 router which is probable about 15 years old. The problem I'm always having with this machine is that at some point, without warning, the router will simply stop dead in it's tracks while I'm running a file. Each time this happens I open up the electrical box located in the back of the table and pull out the 20amp fuse to find that once again, it has blown. I replace the 20amp fuse, start the machine up again (and try to find home again which is lost as a result of the blown fuse), but sure enough some time down the road the fuse blows again. Does anyone have this same problem or know how to fix it for good so that I can run the router with some peace of mind?

Forbes

[Al_The_Man]

What is the current rating of your router, you may need to monitor the current over a period with a clamp on ampmeter and also look whether you need time delay fuses.
Al.

[fgwilson99]

I'm not sure what the current rating is, honestly I'm not sure how to go about finding that out either as I'm an electric simpleton. As for the fuses, I use Buss 20a. It's a multipurpose fuse and does the job, but it's only a matter of time it seems until it finally blows. I looked on the net to see what a time delay fuse looks like and it doesn't look like it would fit in the electrical box. Are there different shaped time delay fuses? ones that are shaped like Buss fuse?

Forbes

[Al_The_Man]

Buss is a generic/make of fuse, not a body style or type, there should be a part number on the fuse.
What is the label on the router marked?
Al.

[fgwilson99]

Well, there are some labels on each slot saying either 5A or 20A but it looks as if they've been put on there by someone other than AXYZ. What do they call the black box that holds the fuses? Is it receptacle? Whatever the name of it is, the slots read from left to right, 20A 5A 5A 5A. So there is one slot that takes a 20A fuse as far as I know. Someone at AXYZ told me that some routers take more than one 20A fuse but I don't want to try putting a 20A in a 5A slot and create a safety risk. The part number on the 20A fuse that I've been using is SFE-20, and then it says 32v on the other end. Again, they are Buss fuses. Any ideas? You think maybe a time delay fuse could do the trick?

[Al_The_Man]

For a start the SFE-20 is a 32v automotive fast acting fuse!.
If the router is not overheating or showing any problems, it could just be fuse fatigue when it blow periodically, it would be best to do a current check, but in the mean time, I would suggest a time delay fuse, this is not really a good application for those 3AG style fuse types
On a single phase motor with a grounded neutral, there should only be one fuse.
Is there any rating on the motor?
Al.

[fgwilson99]

I'm not sure what the rating is, but I wrote down the numbers on the motor. It's a Perske to start. Volts read 220, A(amps I'm guessing) reads 13.3, HZ reads 300 -360, HP says 5.5. So is there a place that you know of where I can get the right time delays, maybe online?

[Al_The_Man]

It sounds like a 3 phase motor? I took it to be a 1 ph Universal.
Again, I am surprised to see that fuse style in that application?
If you have any electrical supply houses in the city you live in they should be able to fix you up.
Otherwise Digikey is one option that ship overnight.
Al.

[ftptorrent]

The 20 amp fuse that you are replacing sounds like it is on the connection board on the left located near the bottom right but on that board. If it is blowing often, take a look at the traces on the back they are probably burning. Also these traces goto the bridge rectifier the terminals are probably burning also. If you can solder well, try to resolder them. This post is old but it might help you inthe future.

FTP

[wildwestpat]

Just seen this thread - can I suggest that fuse blowing can also be caused by contact problems in the fuse holder. Any slight resistance will cause the fuse wire to over heat and either weaken or actually blow without an overload. This can be checked using a high current lo-ohm meter designed for continuity testing or by running for a while under normal load switching off and immediately withdrawing the fuse and feeling the fuse contacts which should be cold. Hot contacts equate to poor (high) contact resistance and should be fixed.

Regards - Pat