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  1. #81
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5516
    Looking good! Can't wait to see it in action.....

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663

    Home Switches

    After puzzling over how to mount home switches, one day looked at plastic sheets cutoffs I have and thought ...hhhmmm.

    Turns out the plastic sheeting is EXACTLY the size it is noted as.

    I wanted to mount the switches to the aluminum extrusions as simply as possible, and have the switches mounted so they would make contact with a substantial part of the carriages.

    Turns out a piece of 1/4-inch plastic spaced the switch off the aluminum extrusion so the lever on the switch contacts the main portion of the 1/4-inch steel carriages directly in the middle. The lever itself is 1/4-inch.

    Used some turn-in nuts that fit into the slots on the aluminum extrusion rails and button head machine bolts to attach the switches to the aluminum extrusion.

    Because the X- and A-axis are slaved there needs to be a way to align the axes on the home switches. Given the manner in which the home switches are attached, all that needs to be done is loosen the button head bolts a bit and give the piece of plastic a little tap to move it.

    The Z-axis home switch will be mounted similarly, however, have to remove the stepper motor [which means taking apart the cable chain mount and cable chain] and get longer machine bolts to mount the stepper motor, plus have a bolt made with a head the is longer than normal along the shaft axis so it comes in contact with the switch.

    I am beginning to think that a CNC machine should be designed from the home and limit switches out ..... I am certainly developing expert status over taking portions of this machine apart and putting back together.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails PICT2593a.jpg  

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663

    Home Switch Mounted

    Home switch mounted on X axis.

    Y- and A-axis are both mounted to. Tomorrow finish wiring and test.

    Make mount for Z-axis switch and wire that too.

    This is the last major item of mechanical/electronic nature in the build. Then its level the frame and table, and then calibrate. The leveling and calibrating happens next week.

    Still have to install Super PID on Porter Cable 690, but that is icing on the cake. Also make auxiliary fan[s] for Porter Cable 690. And the dust shoe. [Does it ever end??!!]

    Even with Tulsa Turbo building the rails and carriages, this took way long than I ever expected. Though along the way I did learn and achieve a modicum of proficiency with two pieces of software, one being Cam Bam.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails PICT2595a.jpg  

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    What's the auxiliary fan for? The 690 moves a lot of air on it's own. Far more than an 892 does.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663
    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    What's the auxiliary fan for? The 690 moves a lot of air on it's own. Far more than an 892 does.

    Am concerned that with Super PID running 690 at lower RPMs there will not be enough air to cool it properly.

    Is this a valid concern?

  6. #86
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    I guess it depends on how hard you push it. I've had mine drilling 1/8" holes through 3/8" aluminum (shallow pecks) for about an hour at 5000rpm, and it didn't get warm.
    If you try to take deep cuts at 5000 rpm for long periods of time, it may get a bit hotter.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663
    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    I guess it depends on how hard you push it. I've had mine drilling 1/8" holes through 3/8" aluminum (shallow pecks) for about an hour at 5000rpm, and it didn't get warm.
    If you try to take deep cuts at 5000 rpm for long periods of time, it may get a bit hotter.

    Since all my cutting will be in solid wood, sheet goods and plastics, and shallow spiral cutting at that, I will put the installation of auxiliary fan off until I have experiences that indicate it is needed. Might install a temperature sensor to keep track.

    The work anticipated for the Droid is generally one-off pieces in a non-high speed environment.

    Thanks again for you insights and suggestions.

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    The newer Super-PIDs have a temperature sensor, don't they?
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  9. #89
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663
    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    The newer Super-PIDs have a temperature sensor, don't they?
    Yes, though I have version 1.

    www.SuperPID.com - Super-PID Closed-loop Router Speed Controller

    Super-PID v2 Features;
    Sophisticated PID+ algorithm specifically tuned for router spindles
    Suits the majority of routers, woodsaws, and universal motors
    Fully assembled and tested PCB
    Sold as "assembled kit" form, just install in a box and connect the wires
    Accurate Tacho RPM display on LCD
    Motor "power used" bargraph display on LCD
    Simple speed control knob sets RPM
    Logic-level control input allows on/off under PC control
    "Open loop" mode is pin selectable
    Separate "Tacho" output compatible with Mach3 and EMC2
    Can be speed controlled from 0-5v external PC control source
    Router run hours timer
    Optional Tempertare sensor feature

    Super-PID v2 Specs;
    Complete opto-isolation of mains voltages from 5v control circuitry
    Regulated speed range; 5000 RPM to 30000 RPM
    Rated for continuous use/production etc
    USA/Canada/Mexico/Colombia/Venezuela 120v AC model; 1800W 120v AC (suits 15Amp routers)
    UK/Europe/Asia/South America/Aust/NZ/Middle East/Africa 240v AC model; 2000W 240v AC
    Requires 5v DC supply at 150mA
    Autodetects 50Hz/60Hz mains frequency

  10. #90
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663
    How to Move a CNC Router in One Piece!!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Use a Speed Crane.

    See this too: youtube.com/watch?v=JDmogLuHCts

    Been on hiatus. Moving to new 1,200-square foot studio.

    Tossed stuff [mostly cutoffs from sheets of plywood and those small pieces that I knew I'd use..someday!] that has been taking shelf space for ...HOW MANY YEARS??

    Who owns all this stuff!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails PICT3274a.jpg  

  11. #91
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    195
    Hopefully I'll be doing the same thing sometime in the fall this year... :cheers:
    My Blog
    http://www.needfulthings.net/tulsaturbo/myblog/index.php

  12. #92
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663

    Digital-Joints-poster-visual-reference

    Found this on the Instrucables web site..though it may be of interest those here.



    50 Digital Joints: poster visual reference

  13. #93
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663

    Re: ShopDroid [custom sized]

    WOW..has it really been two-years since I posted anything.

    Of course, not being near my shop for two-years or getting Droid set-up may be the answer.

    I have forgotten so much the safest way to get the Droid done is to hire someone.

    Suggestions?

  14. #94
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538

    Re: ShopDroid [custom sized]

    Welcome back....
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  15. #95
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663

    Re: ShopDroid [custom sized]

    Thank you Ger.

    As always, you are the gentleman.

  16. #96
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    790

    Re: ShopDroid [custom sized]

    Quote Originally Posted by zool View Post
    WOW..has it really been two-years since I posted anything.

    Of course, not being near my shop for two-years or getting Droid set-up may be the answer.

    I have forgotten so much the safest way to get the Droid done is to hire someone.

    Suggestions?
    I didn't realize that you never got her running. It looks pretty much finished from the picture. What's holding you back? Is it just the electronics that you haven't finished?

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