[HereinCS]

I'm thinking of adding 3D printing as a function to my desktop CNC router. Is this possible? What software/controller would I need?

[Jesse B]

As far as I know, all you need is to add the extruder to the Z-Axis, and then have an extrusion controller combined with your standard stepper drivers. Checking out RepRap or Makerbot would be helpful.

[bonmotwang]

I think you will need CUT3D to do the multiple side cutting. That's is my plan anyway.

[HereinCS]

I'm looking at the makerbot site. The steptruder seems reasonable priced.

MakerBot Stepstruder

They use ReplicationG software however. It's on an Arnduino platform. How does this integrate with Mach3 and gecko drives?

[bonmotwang]

I'm looking at the makerbot site. The steptruder seems reasonable priced.

MakerBot Stepstruder

They use ReplicationG software however. It's on an Arnduino platform. How does this integrate with Mach3 and gecko drives?

What is the resolution this machine can do and how about the strength of the finished part.

I am using RedEye for my plastic 3D printing service for now. Expensive though.

[HereinCS]

I don't think the resolution for the Makerbot is anything close to Redeye.

[giz]

Also consider that these 3D printers have heated beds to keep the part from warping due to inconsistent cooling.

[HereinCS]

I saw that. They also sell a heating plate. Should be easy to make as well. I think that the hardest part would actually be the software. Seems that the ReplicatorG and Reprap software is specific to the motherboard.

[RedskinsJBS]

I think that RepRap has a Gcode generator... You just need to assign the extruder stepper as the fourth axis.

[HereinCS]

I read that reprap software can output to gcode. Then do I just put this into mach3 and my geckodrives will work?

[RedskinsJBS]

That should be the case. The Gcode simply creates spatial movement. Mach3 controls HOW that movement is translated in to the real world.

What I don't know is if the RepRap Gcode has any 'odd' pieces of code to it. As in, how does one control the temperature of the extruder with Gcode? You will have to d a little digging to sort that out.

[Jay C]

I have built a Mendel 3d Printer and own a CNC router. A few experience based opinions:

1. I think yes you can use your CNC machine as a 3D printer. I have my layers set to .34mm (.013") so keep in mind how long a print will take
2. You don't need a heated bed if your use PLA (poly lactic acid is a bio plastic from corn) material. IMHO it doesn't stink like ABS so it's better.
3. Look at the Makergear stepper extruder. It's bullet proof.
4. You will need to have a post processor to convert the extruder commands to a 4th axis like a, b, or c. The software I use that generates the slicing and Gcode is called Skeinforge.
5. There are specific M codes that need to be implemented to control the extruder heater. M104 is the set temp. Not sure what it would take to get Mach to do this. I don't use EMC2 but I understand it does do this. Otherwise, you may have to use a micro to manage the heater. The extruder needs to be 190C to 220C depending on material and the job.

Hope that helps.

My machine can be seen printing here and photos of prints and the printer are here.

[HereinCS]

Thanks Jay C. Nice machine!
I looked at the Makerbot and Reprap designs. At that time they seem a bit flimsy and imprecise compared to a typical desktop CNC router. But it seems to me that perhaps speed is really important and I'm starting to take another look at both the Makerbot and Reprap. What do you feel is the better design?

[Jay C]

I like RepRap for cost reasons. They are not flimsy either of them. They do use threaded rod for the Z, but at .34mm a move it works fine. The axis use timing belts and with the microstepping drivers for the Nema 17 motors I get excellent resolution and near silent printing.

Speed is personal. I have printed parts that took 7 hours (the hello Kitty pencil holder). So faster is better in most cases. But, you have to consider the retained heat of the material and supply cooling, or slow down the print. If you are going too slow, then the previous layer will cool too far and you will have a poor bond. If you go too fast 9without cooling) then the layers will sag or curl. This means you can not pause once you start.

My machine is the Reprap Mendel (Sells design). I have printed and mostly assembled an update called the Prusa design. The Sells uses roller bearings for the axis and is a bit more complex but a lot less friction. I have not finished the Prusa so these are only my observations using my hand to feel the resistance.

Also, here are the Reprap Gcodes: http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Gcode

-Jay

[HereinCS]

Do you have to buy the kit? Where do you pick up parts for this design?

[HereinCS]

Nevermind. Found it

[Jay C]

Do you have to buy the kit? Where do you pick up parts for this design?

I bought the printed parts from ebay. The metal rods and thread are metric on the Sells Mendel so I went ahead and ordered a hardware and electronics kit from UltiMachine | RepRap 3D Printer Supply. The motors are Nema 17 and I recommends Automation Direct for those.

[mcphill]

If you are interested, I have a dimension printer. I can print in .030" and 0.010" resolutions, and am in almost 100% of cases cheaper than RedEye. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want me to quote parts for you in the future.

[bonmotwang]

If you are interested, I have a dimension printer. I can print in .030" and 0.010" resolutions, and am in almost 100% of cases cheaper than RedEye. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want me to quote parts for you in the future.

Thanks, for sure I am interested, I have spend more than $20K at Redeye. (Yes, could have bought a decent one!)
Please post some pictures of your parts.

[Goose80]

Guys. I know it is lazy and stupid question, but can you expert help me?

I got cnc router now.
Can you tell me what Do i need, and from where to buy to could convert it to 3d printer?

I know i need extruder? Warm table? but what exactly and from where?