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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay C View Post
    Once you start printing, you'll "get it", and understand where I'm coming from.

    I'm not trying to discourage you, just one man's opinion based on personal experience.

    -Jay
    Thanks Jay, no discouragement at all. I have been 3D printing for about 10 years now, just not with these fantastic smaller machines. This stuff intrigues me because I do "get it" and I love the whole community that is building up around something that I, and obviously you, are passionate about. That's why I want to push the envelope further here and start combining processes - after all, most real world objects are a result of multiple materials and processes. Isn't the goal of the reprap to one day build itself? That will require more than extruding abs, no matter how accurate you can get it, I guarantee it. But that's just my personal opinion of course...
    DPRouter 4'x8'x8", Rockcliff Driver, 425oz. Nema23, 2HP, Belt drive xy, Acme z,
    400ipm rapids, 120ipm safe cut

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1137
    Quote Originally Posted by darrinp View Post


    That's why I want to push the envelope further here and start combining processes - after all, most real world objects are a result of multiple materials and processes. Isn't the goal of the reprap to one day build itself? That will require more than extruding abs, no matter how accurate you can get it, I guarantee it. But that's just my personal opinion of course...
    You know, that's seems like the one thing these things are used for...printing improvements for themselves. I know I was always looking for the next upgrade to tweak performance, or neat desk toy I just love to watch automation. If CNC milling/routers were as quiet as FDM I'd be cutting more

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    59
    anyone got some pics of their cnc with a print head attached? Ive been messing with this idea for awhile now.

    I just finished a wades extruder for mine...



    I need to get another nema 17 stepper, i have like 10 but either the shafts are round or to short. I also need to build a hot end. Anyone got a preference? I dont have a lathe so its gotta be fairly easy to make without one. Not sure how ill control the temp of the hot end or a heated bed.

    Anyone got some pics for some ideas?

    Thanks
    Mike

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by mmonti View Post
    anyone got some pics of their cnc with a print head attached? Ive been messing with this idea for awhile now.

    I just finished a wades extruder for mine...

    I need to get another nema 17 stepper, i have like 10 but either the shafts are round or to short. I also need to build a hot end. Anyone got a preference? I dont have a lathe so its gotta be fairly easy to make without one. Not sure how ill control the temp of the hot end or a heated bed.

    Anyone got some pics for some ideas?

    Thanks
    Mike
    Go back through this thread and look for comments from Rockcliff. There is a link in one of his posts that will provide more info.
    DPRouter 4'x8'x8", Rockcliff Driver, 425oz. Nema23, 2HP, Belt drive xy, Acme z,
    400ipm rapids, 120ipm safe cut

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    195
    Quote Originally Posted by mmonti View Post
    anyone got some pics of their cnc with a print head attached? Ive been messing with this idea for awhile now.
    Here is my setup that I have been working on...







    My Blog
    http://www.needfulthings.net/tulsaturbo/myblog/index.php

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    313
    You can find an extruder complete with a nozzle on Ebay, and for electronics try "Generation 6" or RAMP's, they are the newest.
    As for the firmware and the CAM software try Sprinter found on the RepRap Wiki or complete here The First Sprinter Easy Install Program and it's $4 3d printer software for windows

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    313
    Quote Originally Posted by darrinp View Post
    Go back through this thread and look for comments from Rockcliff. There is a link in one of his posts that will provide more info.
    A regular NEMA will work, you don't need a special shaft, just hob the bolt using a drill or hacksaw.
    You do this by cutting a grove into the side of the bolt.

    I am not sure what software or hardware your using but if your looking for Firmware for Arduino boards try Sprinter The First Sprinter Easy Install Program and it's $4 3d printer software for windows

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by tulsaturbo View Post
    Here is my setup that I have been working on...
    Nice extruder setup you have going there. The machine looks good too.
    DPRouter 4'x8'x8", Rockcliff Driver, 425oz. Nema23, 2HP, Belt drive xy, Acme z,
    400ipm rapids, 120ipm safe cut

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by tulsaturbo View Post
    Here is my setup that I have been working on...
    very nice setup, I'm still a ways off from printing anything, that extruder and hotend look solid! Was it based on something else or your own design?

    I was thinking a solid metal extruder would be more durable than the peek or ptfe route ive been modeling after but then Id have the heat to remove before it melted the acrylic extruder body.

    I figure ill build a couple before I finally get it right, its a fun side project for me at this point anyways.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    59
    I just noticed in the last pic under your print bed. Is that one of those heated reptile mats?

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    195
    Quote Originally Posted by mmonti View Post
    I just noticed in the last pic under your print bed. Is that one of those heated reptile mats?
    No, its a heated rubber mat like the ones listed in the link below:
    McMaster-Carr
    My Blog
    http://www.needfulthings.net/tulsaturbo/myblog/index.php

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    195
    Quote Originally Posted by mmonti View Post
    very nice setup, I'm still a ways off from printing anything, that extruder and hotend look solid! Was it based on something else or your own design?
    Thanks. Its based off the MakerBot StepStruder® MK7
    My Blog
    http://www.needfulthings.net/tulsaturbo/myblog/index.php

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    195
    Quote Originally Posted by darrinp View Post
    Nice extruder setup you have going there. The machine looks good too.
    Thanks!
    My Blog
    http://www.needfulthings.net/tulsaturbo/myblog/index.php

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    128
    Very interesting, this will also be my altenative route to convert my current cnc machine to 3D Printer.

    Im using Gecko G540 Stepper Driver with 48V 7A Power Supply. My 4 stepper motors are all 387 oz-in rated 50V 3.5A. I can use my A Axis for my extruder but the motor attached is 387 oz-in stepper motor. Can I attach 2 pcs. Nema 17 67 oz-in Stepper Motors 50V 1.68A by replacing 387 stepper motor connecting to my Gecko G540 Stepper Driver system?

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rockcliff View Post
    It's very easy to add an extruder to your existing cnc router for 3D printing, almost simple,



    Use...
    -Mach3 / EMC for control software
    -Extruder with Independent heat control
    -slic3r for CAM



    Can you explain what you mean by independent heat control? Im having trouble figuring out what exactly I need as far as heating side of things.

  16. #76
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    175
    Quote Originally Posted by UserJ View Post
    Can you explain what you mean by independent heat control? Im having trouble figuring out what exactly I need as far as heating side of things.
    What I mean by independent is, the nozzle heat control is just a simple manual control, (independent from any type of computer control)
    I guess " manual heat control" would be a better term to use

    For heat control I am using an AC transformer and a standard light dimmer to adjust temperature, you can get some detailed info here
    this is a picture of my complete setup, (other then motor driver, and fan power supply)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Rockcliff Machine Inc.
    http://www.rockcliffmachine.com

  17. #77
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by rockcliff View Post
    What I mean by independent is, the nozzle heat control is just a simple manual control, (independent from any type of computer control)
    I guess " manual heat control" would be a better term to use

    For heat control I am using an AC transformer and a standard light dimmer to adjust temperature, you can get some detailed info here
    this is a picture of my complete setup, (other then motor driver, and fan power supply)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am working on upgrading my 3d print extruder, my first transformer was rated too low and I want to get a larger one
    can I ask what specs you used for your transformer?

  18. #78
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    175
    Quote Originally Posted by Markwind View Post
    I am working on upgrading my 3d print extruder, my first transformer was rated too low and I want to get a larger one
    can I ask what specs you used for your transformer?
    I am using an AC 8V @ 6A to drive the gage and length of nichrome on the hot end, but before you decide on a new trans. check NichromeCalc for the exact one you need with your wire gage and length, they are very easy to fry, when under-rated, but once you get the right one they last forever.
    Rockcliff Machine Inc.
    http://www.rockcliffmachine.com

  19. #79
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by darrinp View Post
    Hi vtx1029,

    I had the4 exact same issue - no more available axis'. You don't need the Arduino for motion control on the extruder at all. This is relatively easy...

    Your g540 should have 3 available outputs on it. You can just add a stepper driver to one of those outputs and you will gain another axis. We used this one Pololu - A4983 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier with Voltage Regulators and it seems to work very well for how cheap it is. Be careful you don't overload smaller steppers with it as it can put out 2 amps.

    Then you assign that axis to be "A"(in Mach) so that Mach sees it as a fourth axis. Then use KISSlicer(make sure settings are set to output "A" values instead of "E" values) to process your files and you will be printing in no time. Don't even try to use Replicator. I've had moderate success with Slic3r, but am blown away by KISSlicer - it works really well and gives a superior finish on the parts once you have your settings down.

    I'm considering kitting this up for sale. I would make the design open source so you can build it yourself if you want, or just buy the kit and assemble it.
    What kind of interest would there be?

    Bumping this back up to get more info about this stepper driver board!! This sounds awesome.

    I want to add a QU-BD MBE extruder to my Cast Joes machine.
    Joes 4X4 R&P, CastCNC v2, K2 8" Z, Vrail, and 2.2kw spindle and X200 w/ Modbus

  20. #80
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    313
    I just wanted to note that the "easy-driver" with Arduino would work fine for adding another axis for printing.
    The "G540" is a driver stand alone.
    The "A4983" is a driver and will work but not with the Arduino stand alone and is usually used with 3D printer PCB's like "RAMS", this driver requires another IC to work properly.
    Also just because the driver can provide 2A doesn't mean it will suddenly damage a motor, it just means that it can provide that amperage if needed.
    The Voltage used that matters.

    Hope this clears things up a little.

    Rob
    whatisacnc.com

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