[Don Clement]

I still think if we put a Peltier inline with some sort of air blast that would be awesome

You can't get much simpler than the Ranque-Hilsch vortex tube. Vortex tube - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia No moving parts, hot air out one end and cold the other. The only drawback is a mountain of compressed air needed. In the case of my Vortec 610 15SCFM @100psi that keeps my loud 5hp, 80 gallon compressor running almost continuously. Peltiers on the other hand would require massive regulated DC power and a heat sink for the hot side, some kind of heat exchanger for the cold side. Both Peltier and Vortex tubes are very inefficient. BTW I do have a pile of single-stage Peltier devices that I hope someday to make into something, just not a compressed air cooler.

Don

[Markwind]

I think if your looking at it as a health issue, you might want to re-think running dry, as you can get quite a bit of super fine metal dust flying around, which is probably worst.

At minimum I would at least consider some type of vacuum, for constant use

I use to machine a lot of beryllium alloy (nice, but very nasty stuff) which I would never ever attempt to cut without coolant to contain dust.

[Magnum164]

I think if your looking at it as a health issue, you might want to re-think running dry, as you can get quite a bit of super fine metal dust flying around, which is probably worst.

At minimum I would at least consider some type of vacuum, for constant use

I use to machine a lot of beryllium alloy (nice, but very nasty stuff) which I would never ever attempt to cut without coolant to contain dust.

Aluminum should be part of a well balanced diet. We have it in use already

As for Beryllium, I have a friend that has been a machinist for a long time that suffers from machining that stuff in the past.

Controlling dust would be part of what I consider dry machining.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Dry machining aluminum is not really much of a problem at all. Use lots of air to keep the chips clear. After that, the most important thing is to keep your chipload high, so the heat leaves with the chips, rather than going into the tool. This means either reducing RPM, and/or increasing feedrate. Go only as deep as you can get away with. I can cut 6061 at 0.125" DOC, 75 IPM dry with no problem at all with a good 3-flute carbide endmill.

Regards,
Ray L.

[Magnum164]

Dry machining aluminum is not really much of a problem at all. Use lots of air to keep the chips clear. After that, the most important thing is to keep your chipload high, so the heat leaves with the chips, rather than going into the tool. This means either reducing RPM, and/or increasing feedrate. Go only as deep as you can get away with. I can cut 6061 at 0.125" DOC, 75 IPM dry with no problem at all with a good 3-flute carbide endmill.

Regards,
Ray L.

I can't get that kind of speed/feed running with coolant What size endmill are you using? For now I am not using anything really larger than .25" mostly .125".

[Rockn-Roll]

Hi. I'm a newbie...just shopping for my first machine tool. But, I can help get you hooked up with some equipment that can deliver the required compressed air.

The only drawback is a mountain of compressed air needed. In the case of my Vortec 610 15SCFM @100psi that keeps my loud 5hp, 80 gallon compressor running almost continuously.

Your 5hp 80 gallon compressor is most likely a 2 stage compressor...which is why it's so loud. Single Stage air compressors are quieter and can maintain higher volume flowrates.

That's for sure! 1.7 Cubic Ft./Min. @ 80 PSI for trico 15 SCFM @100psi for the Vortec 610.[/url]

VisitJenny Single Stage Wheeled Portable Electric Motor Air Compressors

I purchased the J5A-30P and run a sand blaster with it...it can provide nearly 20cfm @ 100psi. Plus, it's so quiet my shop vac drowns it out. Thanks for this thread I can elimate the worry of lubricant polution which is a big deal for zoning issues.

[Don Clement]

Your 5hp 80 gallon compressor is most likely a 2 stage compressor...which is why it's so loud. Single Stage air compressors are quieter and can maintain higher volume flowrates.

FYI Rotary Screw Air Compressors are extremely quiet and can supply high flow rates @ high pressure. I stood right beside one at Westec while there was a 10hp Rotary screw Air Compressor running full blast... very quiet. However Could buy another fully tooled Tormach for the cost of one. BTW I am moving my loud air compressor 30ft out to a Tuffshed I have. Already have the 220V wires with underground conduit and 3/4" copper air lines to do that.

Don

[Magnum164]

I see yes I too had a problem with this and luckily my fiancee is a RN and use to work at a allergy office. I noticed a discharge from my nose and man all day I could smell it. I'm thinking maybe it could be the bacteria after the coolant has been sitting for so long that's getting you all worked up. On top of all of this I have deviated septum and can't smell much myself, sucks. I'd try a bubbler or make some sort of skimmer, only because flood will allow you go faster than dry from my experience, not to mention the tools life.

I have ordered some more coolant from Tormach and will try one more time, since coolant does give a good finish for now and I don't have time to setup some sort of air system. But you may be right on the bacteria as it may be a few days before I use the machine, might have to start treating this more like my salt water aquarium and keep the liquid moving. So maybe cleaning up the tank and keeping an eye on it will be best. Dang water evaporates so fast I can keep it filled

[David Bord]

Im telling you... try the Koolmist(I think 77) stuff. It sits for months, have never had any bacteria build up, or smell and I dont have a bubbler. Im super sensitve to this stuff and have never had an issue.

David

[Magnum164]

Im telling you... try the Koolmist(I think 77) stuff. It sits for months, have never had any bacteria build up, or smell and I dont have a bubbler. Im super sensitve to this stuff and have never had an issue.

David

I couldn't find the Koolmist late last night when ordering. But I didn't realize you were saying you used the mist type as a flood coolant. I'll take another look at it before I clean the tank out.

[David Bord]

This is the stuff Formula 77 For Tougher Service - Spray Mist Coolant Systems, Mill Coolant, Tool Coolant, Lathe Coolant, Machining Coolant You can find it almost anywhere. Enco etc. Cost is about $23-35 a gallon.

Correct, I am using it as a flood coolant, not a mist.

David

[kevperro]

This is the stuff Formula 77 For Tougher Service - Spray Mist Coolant Systems, Mill Coolant, Tool Coolant, Lathe Coolant, Machining Coolant You can find it almost anywhere. Enco etc. Cost is about $23-35 a gallon.

Correct, I am using it as a flood coolant, not a mist.

David

I'm using the same thing.... no problems here. I've not tried drinking it yet though.

[davidperry3]

I use that Kool Mist 77 and my machine is covered in rust! I live in Oklahoma (no ocean nearby!).

[kevperro]

Have you checked the concentration?

I find that hard to fathom why I would be rust-free next to the ocean in a rain forest.

[davidperry3]

Yeah right now it is about 70% iron some coolant, way oil and a spritz of water. I got the rust early on when I had a good mix though. I have just ordered the Tormach stuff and plan a complete tank/machine clean out. I have generaly had good luck with what tormach reccomends so we will see.

[kevperro]

Yeah right now it is about 70% iron some coolant, way oil and a spritz of water. I got the rust early on when I had a good mix though. I have just ordered the Tormach stuff and plan a complete tank/machine clean out. I have generaly had good luck with what tormach reccomends so we will see.

That may be why.... I only machine aluminum and I've not had any problems. I also hit the table, spindle and most of my tooling (cover the holders/collets) with some WD-40 every once in awhile.

But I bet what you machine is the difference.

[Magnum164]

Thought I would post an update. I skimmed my tank and added one of theoil pillows from Tormach in my tank. Also added just a tad of baking soda as suggested on a few other threads. Seems to have gotten the coolant back to where it doesn't smell (as tested by others, since I can't tell).

I have a several layer filtration system but I forgot about something to actually filter out the oil, so I suspect it was machine oil that contributed to the problem.

Anyway. Have some 8020 on the way and will hopefully have a better enclosure on it soon....