[twocik]

Don is that really the reason why (I thought it might be the parallels) ? I have to add a little bit of extra material on the sides for pounding.

Well if that's the case then Kurt it is, or do you think the GMT Glacern hold value too ? I was really looking into this vise and adding another to cutout more parts at once.

[Don Clement]

I can comment on is my Kurt D688 vise that works well on my Tormach 1100. I used to have to hammer with the Chicom 4" that used the same set of parallels that I use on the Kurt. http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...f/kurtvise.jpg
Don

[twocik]

DareBee this is exactly what I was thinking, thanks for the advice ! I'm going to extend the support bar 1" past the parts on L & R, then drill two holes for every part helping line things up. I'm hoping the support bars back will push the parts flat into the front jaw. Now the vise jaw is another really good idea, as you can see I've already bumped mine up a little.

[twocik]

Made the support bar today, looks to be good choice. I broke my carbide 40T 2" slitting saw pushing it to 764 rpm at 30.6 IPM if I remember correctly. Anyway my RPMs weren't fast enough I'm guessing or my fpt was wrong. I think my part some how moved not having much to grab in the vise, which the support bar will definitely help. I have another slitting saw that was laying around and decided to do some testing.

2" Dia.
.058" ... thickness
110T
HSS


I got pretty good results based on sound and vibration, but not so much on the finish along the top and bottom. There's was almost no sound, little vibration and the part was sticking up out of the vise by 3" (.375" thick 6061 plate stock at .33" woc). The cut looks pretty clean, still see a few saw or debris marks, but guessing this is do to the blade exiting or metal debris getting caught underneath...

2" dia
110T flutes
SFM 890
FPT 0.000048"
Conventional

1700 RPM
9.0 IPM








Here's the correct thickness slit I need for the part and if anyone here has a recommendation please feel free to post.



MSC Item Detail

2" Dia
0.0938" Thickness
34T
HSS



Here's what I'm thinking


1700 RPM
5.8 IPM
FPT .0001"
SFM 890

[Konrad]

Why only .0001 per tooth?
How many parts you have to make?
Cut speed in half or less and go about 9 IPM then your'e close, I don't go by the book anymore for over 35 years.
I see you're in a bit of a learning curve, over the years I have learned that feed and speed makes about 40%, set up 60%, that was lacking in
your set up as mentioned... causing breakage & vibration.

You have to make your tool cut a good amount .0001 with that speed can cause vibration.

[twocik]

Only 20 pcs this month, but next month could be more. It's a product I'm offering to the public.


Yes bit of a learning curve with these slitting saws... The way I've taught myself is to start out small and work my way up.

Sorry I just noticed these calculations were from the 110T saw I have now (very little teeth), new saws will be here tomorrow. With the new saw at 34T that would be a pretty big chip compared to the 110T. Maybe something like .001" - .002" for starters, what do you think ?

[Konrad]

Yes, this sounds about right.

[Don Clement]

Hey Don what was your feed & speed on slitting saw ?

Well I don’t have the exact speeds and feeds but here is the video.
TTS SlittingSawon Tormach video by miltons_stuff - Photobucket
I made a run of 100 of these parts in a very small amount of time that included spot drilling, drilling, more drilling, tapping the two 6-32 holes, and sawing on one fixturing. (since the parts are round) Takes only seconds to refixture a new part with the Eagle Rock 5C fixture and pot collet. The Power Draw Bar really helped here in producing these parts in a reasonable time.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...iant-Mount.gif BTW there wasn’t much vibration at all with the 3.5" diameter 30T slitting saw running at the feeds shown during a 0.75” depth cut in 6061-T6.

Don

[thedave]

I'm late to the game here, but as far as tumbling goes, here is what I know. I bought the large Harbor freight tumbler on sale for $ 149. It was pre-threaded for an inlet and a drain. I got a 5 Gal bucket, small pond pump, and ordered some 10 micron filter bags from Mcmaster. I built a PVC stand to hold the filter bag. I run the drain hose into the filter bag, and then let it drain into the bucket. Using green triangle media, I run 25 parts per batch, of 6061, 2" x 2" x .5" in a 24 hour cycle. I swap out bags every 12 hours. The filter bags get rinsed out. The parts come out ready to powdercoat. It run long cycles as I don't machine the entire part, the parts come off of the mill and into the tumbler. It still has the writing on it. I only have to change the water out about once a week. I do end up adding some as it evaporates during the week.

[twocik]

Don thanks for posting that and the fixture info.



Dave I'd really like to see this setup if you have a pic.... ?

[Konrad]

Have done some 1/8" slitting into 4140H. today, just noticed that most my slitters are
around 3 1/2" - 4" 36T plus minus some.

thedave, when you were saying that you use 2", I kind of pictured that it's close to my
size but it's not...just realizing this today, so a 2" 36T might be a bit tight,
I would rather see about 20T on this small cutter, just wanted to make you aware of this, a 36T probably still is going to work, ...sorry.
Not sure how ridged your mill is,.... lots of home shops here what run cheap Chinese equipment, then a smaller cutter would be better suited.

The reason why I asked for how many, ...
I might just buy a long bar close to size, chop to length+ and put the futures in, saving something on material,
tools....allot of carving out with your method.
That straight reamer you have I don't like, try spiral next time, makes a better job. That counter sink needs sharpening, looks like it throws a burr.

[twocik]

So the .001" - .002" FPT is still ok with the 2" 36T 0.0938" or 0.0625" thickness slitting saws ?



Yes I was thinking of the bar stock, but could only do 2 pieces at a time. This method allows me to cut 4 pieces without any over hang and can slide the next plate in without any remounting once I get my vise stop arm. As for the burr if you're looking at the clamps tapped hole, that's from me tighting down a 8-32 without a washer testing size slit. Yes I know looks like crap.

As for the reamer, first time on this too. I've read spiral can either pull or push, so figured I'd play it safe with a straight no pecking. The finish honestly is very nice, but haven't seen a spiral either....


Another idea I had for the slits was to make a table that would have a horizontal mounted motor (probably a dremel or smaller router) with two slitting saw space exactly where I need them running along a guide. However I still need to tap the holes on each side which is kind of a PIA, but I'm getting use to the job. all 4 parts take about an hour and a half to make (flipped 5 times each). The part that I need to find a faster method is milling off the back side once the first part is done. Takes forever with a 1.5" face mill. The machine I'm using is a Tormach 1100 series II


.

[MichaelHenry]

Well I don’t have the exact speeds and feeds but here is the video.

Nice clean-looking coolant - how do you keep it that way?

I'm using Hangsterfer C-500 and Vactra #2 way oil with the Tormach coolant tank/pump and a small belt skimmer from McMaster-Carr (looks like an Abanaki). The coolant gets a dirty tinge within a few hours of fresh makeup and there is a lot of tramp oil floating on the surface of both sides of the coolant tank.

Mike

[Don Clement]

Nice clean-looking coolant - how do you keep it that way?

I use Vactra #2 and ValCool VP650, mostly stock Tormach coolant system with no skimmer.

VP650-005B 5Gal Blue ValCOOL PremHvyDuty Chlor SolOilCoolant | Fastenal

[MichaelHenry]

I use Vactra #2 and ValCool VP650, mostly stock Tormach coolant system with no skimmer.

VP650-005B 5Gal Blue ValCOOL PremHvyDuty Chlor SolOilCoolant | Fastenal

Thanks - do you do anything to control tramp oil? On occasion, I've stooped to sopping the floating tramp oil out with paper towels but that's pretty messy.

[twocik]

Heads up guys, Tormach is suppose to be introducing a slitting saw very soon. Hmm lets see I only need 4 of them lol

[atoamsh]

Hello. As a carpenter, I advice you to pick the smallest cutter you have for this. It is very hard, and you should be really accurate and attentive. But, from my experience, you cannot make a 100% perfect cut, if you don't have a good equipment. You need a special good saw to make a really smooth cut. I found all the needed information and tips on exploremenow.com, you can find there any information related to your question. It helped me a lot, so i guess will work for you too.