[skray775]

Been having a blast with my machine but over the weekend the cast iron quill arm cracked. This was the arm that carried the depth limit nuts on the manual machine.

I mig welded it together and used it long enough to make a 5/8" 6061 arm.

I decided to go a little deeper, faster, and climb mill the entire part. It seemed to work great.

Video

[skray775]

Update:

I made a new pulley and was able to up the RPM from 2850 to 5060.

Also pictured is a helicopter frame I made with the mill.

[Robin Hewitt]

Did you get the old pulley off?

I have tried pulling, haven't tried heating though.

How did you do it?

What holds it on? Is it a taper with a key?

[Bubba]

Robin,
On my RF31, the pulley is held on by taper. I found out shortly after I got the machine as all of a sudden, the pulley was rotating; but the spindle wasn't:{( The big nut on top (left hand thread) was not tight. You might try the old trick we used on rear wheel brake drums in the old days that had a taper fit. Loosen the nut a bit and run the machine. The vibration will soon pop it loose.

[skray775]

Just a tapper, no key.

I have 2 of these and on one machine a simple tap with a rubber hammer made it pop off. On the CNC on I had to
use a puller to apply pressure and then smack the piss out of it with the rubber hammer to make it pop off

Ended up using a 34" inch belt BTW.

That extra 2200 RPM makes a big difference in the speed and feed calculators!

Did you get the old pulley off?

I have tried pulling, haven't tried heating though.

How did you do it?

What holds it on? Is it a taper with a key?

[cornbinder23]

Robin,
On my RF31, the pulley is held on by taper. I found out shortly after I got the machine as all of a sudden, the pulley was rotating; but the spindle wasn't:{( The big nut on top (left hand thread) was not tight. You might try the old trick we used on rear wheel brake drums in the old days that had a taper fit. Loosen the nut a bit and run the machine. The vibration will soon pop it loose.

Thats an awesome idea, I always have a hell of a time pulling the drums on my 63 IH Travelall, I will have to try that next time, although the axle has a keyway in it would it still work?
I have used an impact hammer to "vibrate" them off by using it on the end of the axle but I dont know how good that is for the bearings

JTCUSTOMS

[mattmark]

Update:

Also pictured is a helicopter frame I made with the mill.

Nice build!

Just curious - any good links to helicopter making forums or sites?

thanks!

Matt

[skray775]

Nice heli forum here:
Helifreak.com - Fun, Learning, Friendship and Mutual Respect

There is another called crackroll.com but i never visit that one.

Nice build!

Just curious - any good links to helicopter making forums or sites?

thanks!

Matt

[pete from TN]

Hey man damn nice work on the mill and some very cool machining projects there. I always said that rf31 was a fine little mill. Seems you already knew that. Wish I had some plans to build an RC helicopter for me to crash at home here. Nice work. peace

Pete

[Robin Hewitt]

The vibration will soon pop it loose.

Hi Bubba and Kregan

Useful information, simple taper, no key.

So either mine was put on hot or Loctite was used

I would like to get it off so I can cut it for a spindle lock, but it is very stubborn.

Luckily, so am I

best

Robin

[skip20]

What did you do about the round column?
I used Grade 8 bolts & it still moves sometime.
I pinned the rack on the side with no help there.
I had a few posts here on my machines some time ago, but haven't worked on any of my CNC projects for some time.
Skip20

[skray775]

Skip,
I have never had the head of my machine move on the column. I use the stock bolts and nuts.

What did you do about the round column?
I used Grade 8 bolts & it still moves sometime.
I pinned the rack on the side with no help there.
I had a few posts here on my machines some time ago, but haven't worked on any of my CNC projects for some time.
Skip20

[Bubba]

The only thing I did to my column bolts was to put a little bit of never seize on the threads.
The only times I have had the column move on me is when the idiot operator (me) forgot to tighten the bolts after setup.

[ngr1]

Great build kregan, thanks for sharing it with us.

I have the exact machine and I am planning a conversion. Can you please share the details of your ball screw and ball nut order? I would like to place a similar order for my machine.

Norman

[skray775]

Norm,
I didn't get to my office comp today but will send you details Monday.

Here are 2 more projects....
First is a scribing/engraving a brick pattern on HO scale for a tunnel portal I am working on for my railroad.

Second is the first version of a putter head I am designing... Milled out of pvc exterior trim and hit with gray primer. I will be using a combination of metals for the putter.

Great build kregan, thanks for sharing it with us.

I have the exact machine and I am planning a conversion. Can you please share the details of your ball screw and ball nut order? I would like to place a similar order for my machine.

Norman

[mattmark]

Nice heli forum here:
Helifreak.com - Fun, Learning, Friendship and Mutual Respect

There is another called crackroll.com but i never visit that one.

Hey, - just logged into helifreak.com - i'm a complete newbie and reading all the faqs/tips. Thanks for the recommendation!

Matt

[skray775]

I recommended a different web site. Something called viglink has changed the URL i posted and it continues to do so.
Heli Freak is the name of the site. It is all one word.

. Thanks for the recommendation!

Matt

[Georgie]

I was able to get it everything finished and operating today. Next I need to tune Mach3 and then try a test cut.

Hi Kevin/Kelly ?,
Your Z axis looks great and is exactly like the drive I need. Do you want to share any drawings or further information on the assembly of the ballscrew.
If so you can email me please.

Kind regards
George

[Georgie]

Still waiting on the motors and controllers... They shipped on the 8th then held in customs a few days now not sure?

Anyway I spent some time working up a drive for the Z axis that is a hybrid of Jeff's plans and my own mod's. I really don't want to bury the motor and screws inside the head of the machine so I will mount them to one side.

I need to thread the end of the bearing to ball nut adapter to a 7/8-14. Believe it or not I have never done threads on my lathe so I did a practice part. The aluminum tore a bit on the high spots of the threads but I think that was due to the carbide cutter. I think a ground HSS cutter might make a cleaner cut. Overall it works great and I learned something new.

Hi Kregan,
I'm a bit confused with the placement of the bearing to ball-nut adapter, maybe it's me being a bit thick. Can you help me please. I would also appreciate if you could share some dimensions, bearing part numbers etc.
Kind regards
George

[Georgie]

Hi Norman, did you complete your mill conversion ? I'm looking for some help with drawings for dimensions ?
Maybe you can help. I think Kregan's out of town at the moment because I did not get a reply.
Thanks
George