[buscht]

automizer, I have used toggle clamps. You just have to be careful when programming to make sure you don't accidentally run into them during a rapid move.
It can be pretty ugly.

[gbowne1]

In the shop where I worked at they used double sided tape. Removal of the residue? A few small squirts of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone).

Not the best idea as MEK is a known carcinogen but, hey it worked!

Greg

[furry]

Not sure how widely it's available overseas, but in here in australia Eucalyptus Oil is used to remove labels/tape, almost anything leaving a sticky residue.

And it's natural!

[ImanCarrot]

If you get the Double Sided tape from RS catalogue (the economy stuff) if just peels off in one go leaving virtualy no residue- I use this on plastic lenses and it holds the parts real good- I give the lenses a wipe with Methanol just in case they are slightly contaminated- i usualy use Acetone to remove residue, but not on plastic lenses obviously. The other expensive Double Sided tape is no good as it goes all gooey.

[darde]

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...DADADADADADADB

[darde]

SPAENAUR. Try a search for them and then email them with the part numbers
191-020
191-021
191-001
They are a tnut with a rectangular flang on the bottom and holes for screws to keep them in place
The part number 191-001 is for 1/2" bolts.

[darde]

http://images.rockler.com/tech/68387.pdf

[Grifftek]

Hi Guys

I have been usin g2way tape for years also. I have found a tape that looks like masking tape but sticky on both sides where the middle layer is paper. Same company has tape with a mylar center while stronger, I have not has the best results when trying to remove it.

the majority of the parts I machine are aluminum or plastic (http://tinyurl.com/6t2oa)
I have a nice hot plate that I use to warm up the base plate. I have never measured the temperature, but just at the right moment, you can turn off the heat and very easily remove the parts and the tape with no leftover residue.......But go a little over the correct temperature and you ahve a big sticky mess as the adhesive releases from the paper. On the mylar stuff, the adhesive seems to always come off the mylar no matter what.

I have 6 parts stuck down with the tape right now running in the machining center! If it werent for 2way tape and superglue Id never get anything done!

Oh, i forgot to mention that I also use the hydraulic press to seat the material to the base plate. I find that when both surfaces are very flat and the press is used I can use flood coolant but if I use extruded bar stock, the surfaces is not flat or smooth enough and the coolant will migrate under the parts and they will release...

The tape I use comes from Related Products 800-423-3564 The sales guy I buy from is Jim Leiberman. He always gives me fantastic service even though were a low volume user. I but it in several widths up to 6" wide.

Here is a link to a vacuum fixture I made for machining cred card stock http://tinyurl.com/coave


Hope this helps someone

Bill Griffin

[Grifftek]

Sorry Guys, My previous post was in response to the thread "Holding down your parts " Sorry I didnt copy the original post in the maessage.

Regards

Bill Griffin

[jjdon]

One of the first projects I did on my mill was to make Mitee-Bite type clamps, since I didn't want to pay $40/per or whatever they are. Just a hex nut milled and a cavity with an eccentric bolt in the center. They are great! I'm sure the real ones are even greater still. Real handy.

[automizer]

can you post a picture of your clamps?

[jjdon]

By request, here's a picture of my clamps. I'm not exactly going to apologize, but realize that I had a new milling machine, and it was, "Hmm what can I make?", and my lathe was not what it is now, either. A little rough, is what I'm saying, but they do the job. The eccentrics are turned on center, then drilled OFF center, and the bolts brazed into the hole - hex nuts are milled and flat and a cavity made with ball mill - could be turned, too. I have a sine plate with 1/4-20, so the small ones are for that, same with the screw clamps, also just brazed together. Threw in a vise clamp, too - simple project that's great to have.

[FatChips]

I use double sided tape a lot; Denatured alcohol will help you remove your parts easily and without residue.
Permacel makes our tape, it is paper based.
I work mostly with plastics.

[mwalach]

I have been looking for double sided tape and can't find it anywhere? Does anyone have any suggestions?

At the last school I taught at they had a real simple vaccum system. They had a venture valve, although a shop vac works too sucking air from a 3/8" or so hole in the table. They would then make small thing (1/4") pieces of wood with a hole in the center that would line up with the suction hole in the table. On the top of the small piece of wood they would run foam rubber around the edge. Place you work peice on top, turn on the vacumm and the work peice would suck right down. Very strong. They made one for their router station as well that ran from a shop vac.

[spalm]

The double sided tape I use is the stuff intended for carpet. You can get it at the Depot in various widths. Just go to the carpet section. I find that most of the residue just rubs off with finger pressure if you remove it with in a day or two. Rosonol (or ‘Ronson’) brand lighter fluid is a great solvent for any sticky you may find troublesome. It can be bought at any grocery store. It also works for chewing gum and other labels that may be stuck to stuff you buy.

Steve

[miljnor]

I've used them extensively when I was doing dicast parts, but mostly for drilling.

You have to design your fixture so that the clamping arm isn't the thing the machine is trying to throw accros the room, as the machine will generally win!

[Jesse Dredge]

I realize this thread is close to 4 years old, just the same maybe someone can give me some advice on this topic.

I have a Sabre 408 (Gerber Router) that I have struggled to keep parts from flying from the table, primarily the smaller ones. I've tried the double stick tape, and have found a very good solution for tape if anyone is interested, but would like to try something else as well. Have any of you been exposed to add on software that will allow me to create a number of "bridges" between the part and the waste, effectively raising the router bit just enough in a number of places around the perimeter of the part to attach it securely to the rest of the sheet until "de-nested" at the end of the cut. Please let me know if you have come across anything like this, thanks!

[skippy]

Hey Jesse, that is a terrific idea! I know from experience that you can use whatever tape you like but on real small stuff half the time it isn't enough resulting in damage to the piece. Secondly, the stronger the tape is, the harder it is to clean off. Your bridge idea (in the software) would take care of all that and only need a small touch-up with a file afterwards.
Skippy

[carlnpa]

Sheetcam will allow you to make "tabs" to keep the part in place, the user defines the tab. These tabs can be a thin material bridge or taller to allow the cut to jump clamps and fixtures.
HTH

[ger21]

Vectric's products also let you place tabs. You need to manually place them in Cut2D, but V-Carve Pro and Aspire will do it for you.