[Dave Rothermel]

If you are asking me, the acc. turned on the servo transformer.I gutted out all of the electronics. I am using the acc. contactor to turn on the servo transformer wich powers my gecko 320x's . I also will use it to power the
PMDX 126.on 220 volts. I am powering the relay from 110 volts at the control panel. When I power the relay, the gecko drive and the bob powers up. Hope this helps you. The acc & the forward spindle relay had a 3UA Thermal delay
relay on it. I took that off to get the relays to work. Don't know what they were for. Dave

[efinkg]

When I trip the ACC relay, my servo motors all decide to drive and ignore the limit switches. Weirdly enough, they're fine if I bypass the ACC relay entirely.

[Jackal66]

Here are some more pics from Dave.


This is where the PMDX board & Geckos will mount.


He is making all of his stuff out of wood to see if he like it first. I think the wood looks great. He is doing such a good job that he should keep the wooden cabinet for the controls.


It looks nice and whatever finish he decides will keep the oily finger prints off.

From the looks of his handiwork, he may be one of those guys that can put a laminate on it and make everyone jealous.

Looking good ,Dave.

Keep up the great work.

JAckal :cheers:

[mtechserv]

Jackal,

Thanks for taking the time to post the photos. This will be a big help when I decide to do my conversion. I'll be following this thread closely.


thanks
mtechserv

[Jackal66]

Guys,

I'm glad to help in any way. I don't have a lot of electronics knowledge, but I will take pictures & check things (readings, voltage, ohms, trace wires, etc) on my machine, if it will help someone.

JAckal :cheers:

[Dave Rothermel]

I haven't checked it out yet. The X & Y use proximity limit switcher.
I am going to try to use them. Jack, I see you changed the encoders.
Is there a reason you didn't use the old ones? I really value your input.
This thread vary helpful. Dave:cheers:

[Jackal66]

The reason I went with the AMT-103 encoder was becasue of Mariss at Gecko Drives.

Several times, I've read where people were having troubles and he would recommend this encoder and it solved their problems.

Digi-Key - 102-1308-ND (Manufacturer - AMT103-V KIT)

Also, it would be possible to use the old encoders, but there was no real step-by-step how-to on setting them up.

These Amt encoders are $23 each. I can afford to keep a spare or 2 around.

The factory encoders are like $375 each, and if you buy one off of e-bay it may be bad, too.

Here are new Hurco ones:



If you search you can see that Mariss highly recommends this encoder over everything else.

That was my only reasons.

Plus, I like to use parts that some else has already sorted out the problems and make it a bolt on & go.


JAckal :cheers:

[Al_The_Man]

Dave,

You were telling me about how you were mounting your Geckos.

Here is a few pics of mine:

This is the swing out door that had the low voltage power supply mounted inside.
Will get an updated pic with the Geckos mounted.

JAckal:cheers:

I know its a bit late now, but I prefer to remove the back mounting panel and lay it flat on the bench, especially if it is down by the floor!.
It is often a two man job to get it back in but it is way easier to lay things out and mount them.
Al.

[Jackal66]

Al,

That would be the best way and Dave should do that.

I started out like that, but ended up having to put it back in the cabinet everyday after I was finished working on it.

There is a lot of chips & grinding dust from my welding & manual machining.

I put a tarp over it for a while. Then got paranoid that a chip might get in somewhere and sabotage me. < I sabotage myself enough as it is.(chair)

Dave,

You really should do your this way.


JAckal :cheers:

[Dave Rothermel]

I agree. I mounted a plate in the upper left hand top corner. Don't like working bent over. I mounted the plate spaced out 51/2 " from back. No need to reach back in the cabinet to make adjustments. Four bolts and the plate comes out for mounting drivers & bob. When I get everything mounted and start wiring, I won't take it out Thanks for the comments. Dave::cheers:

[rkonnen]

I have a KM3P that had a Ultimax control. Had one screen go bad then final had a main board go bad, and at $3000 to replace. Definitely makes the decision on a retro. I ended up rewiring the wire harness to the servos. Found out they had a Y-connection in the middle of the harness. Had set it up with Rutex 990s. Didn't like their older drives, so gutted it again and now I think I am going to try Ajax's kit. Shane Martin of martincnc.com might have an interest in the parts from your Hurco.
Brg, Richard

[Jackal66]

Thanks for the info Richard.

I'll contact Shane.

JAckal:cheers:

[Dave Rothermel]

Shane is who went through my card rack when I first got the Hurco.
Cost me $ 400.00. for that. When I sent the card rack, the graphic monitor didn't work. When it came back it worked. I ordered the PMDX 126 breakout board today. Got an e-mail that it has been shipped. Had other things to do
instead of playing with the hurco. Jack your pix.s of the pmdx mounted is vary helpful. Also the layout of the BOB. I look at your pix, and it conforms what I am thinking. It is good to have backup for questions
Dave:wave:

[Jackal66]

Dave,

I just made up the drawing so that it would help me with mapping out the connections. Anyone is welcome to use it. If Steve from PMDX wants to refer people to it, he can have it for free.

It will allow you to make new sheets with notes if needed.

Maybe it will help others with their project.

Just check to make sure it is the same as your board. If you have a newer version, yours may be different.

Here is a link in case someone wants to view it. It is post #16 in this thread we are in right now:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/knee_v...co_km3p-2.html


JAckal:cheers:

[Dave Rothermel]

I have the PMDX 126 board mounted. Also drilled and tapped fore the gecko's.
I wired up the X proximity switches to the board. When I move the x with a 12 volt power supply, and I come to the limit switch the light on the board comes on. I hooked the X + & - limit sw output together. I have a limit light on ether end of the X travel. I am running the switch on 5 volts. I thought they were 12 volts, but the Hurco manual says 5 volts. Running the axes on low voltage lets you set up limit sw. with out crashes. Will order the Geckos Wednesday after the money arrives in pay-pal. I drilled and tapped for the 4th gecko axes when I am ready.I am happy to see the proximity sw. will work.
Dave:wave:

[Jackal66]

Dave,

It sounds like you are going to pass me up.

I bought my Geckos at the same time as the PMDX 126 and Steve lowered the price of the Geckos.

He might do the same for you since it was a recent purchase. Still has the same Gecko factory warranty & support.

I have my X axis motor hooked up on the mill and all of the limit switches & home switches connected to pin #12 on the 126 board.< ( I think this is right. Don't do this without checking the diagram first(chair)(chair))

I really want to put all of my wiring in conduit, because if I don't now, the machine will get run like it is and never done until some of the wiring gets damaged.

Mine is about 85% finished. My stopping point is noted for when I get enough time to start back on it.

On the PMDX site, there is a "sample .XML file" to get you started.

The guys on MACH 3 forum Machsupport Forum - Index

Show how to install this ( easier than I can explain). It applies to the PMDX boards. You will have to do some editing, but it won't be as bad as starting from scratch.

The limit switch, spindle, home switch, parameters is all you might need to alter.

Keep us posted.

If you want to put up some pics here, just e-mail them to me and I'll be glad to do it.

JAckal :cheers:

[Dave Rothermel]

On the PMDX site, there is a "sample .XML file" to get you started.
I am running in normal mode. I don't think that the XML file makes any difference.
I loaded it anyway.
Here is what I got back from PMDX. Hello Dave,

Yes, you can order Gecko drivers from our web site at
any time. There is no hard requirement of bundling
with our products, just that we are a full service
provider instead of just pushing raw drives on the
market. Currently we only have 2 pieces in stock and expect
more to arrive next Monday.
Shipping via Priority Mail is $8.00 flat rate for one
driver or several.
Regards,
Steve Stallings
PMDX
I have the 320Xs ordered. Now I can wait. Dave

[Jackal66]

Dave,

That sounds pretty good. I got your e-mail last night.

Steve Stallings is real quick to help.

He is on here as user " morestuff " < I think?????

I haven't had time to touch my Hurco in about 3 weeks.


JAckal :cheers:

[Dave Rothermel]

I read about the PMDX 126. At that time the manual wasn't sinking in. I liked the on board power supply. Then I got the board and quality is excellent. I have worked with electronics (Ham radio) since 1960. I worked for Delco Electronics for 30 yrs. After playing with the BOB I would look at any other BOB. Every time I go through the manual I learn something new and exciting. Looking forward to getting the servos hooked up. Making my control panel now. Honey-do things are getting in the way. I will post pix.s when a little farther along. Dave

[Jackal66]

Dave said:

Every time I go through the manual I learn something new and exciting

Dave, It's still that way with me.

I printed out (2) more copies from the PMDX website.

One has side notes written in it, Post-it notes with info as page markers, and I used a high lighter marker to note important things that applied to my mill.

Some of the options that didn't apply to me ( I won't be using) was covered in a red X with a high lighter, so I won't get side-tracked sometime and start reading something in there while troubleshooting the machine.

The 2nd copy is for working on the machine. It is greasy and doesn't have any real important notes.

The same applies to my Gecko manuals.

Have you downloaded the Gecko manuals, yet?

There is some very good reading in them.

Before my parts had came in, I sat with both books and went from one to another and made a wiring diagram (sort of like a Map).

I think each individual machine needs this. After I make changes or modifications because something won't work, the manual gets changed.

In a few years when all of the parts & operations aren't fresh on my mind, I'll have the manual to refer to.

These aren't great ideas. Just some of my brain farts. I'm sure others have done similar with their manuals, and probably had better ideas.:wave:

JAckal:cheers: