[LeeWay]

I would like to see what you come up with for sure. Sounds interesting.
This shoe installs and removes very quickly without tools. Few turns of the wing nut on the hose clamp. Loosen the adjustable handle 1/4 turn. Unplug the ring light. It's off.
I designed that feature in, but honestly do not use it.
With such visibilty, it is easy to change bits and zero Z without removing it. I just use a high forward tool change position. I can change a tool in about 10 seconds.

[HelicopterJohn]

Hi LeeWay,

Nice build on your dust shoe. Do you have any details or a thread on how you made your light ring? That is one thing I thought about adding to my dust shoe.

One thing that I did differently was to make the actual dust pickup area relatively small i.e. about 4 inches I think? That way when you get close to the edge of the part or edge of the table you have minimal vacuum loss. Go to 10:39 on the timeline of this video to see what I am talking about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WQ8KcTSKyQ

Many thanks for any input on the light.

John

[LeeWay]

The light ring is usually sold in pairs. I got some sizes off Ebay and picked up other sizes off Amazon.
The smaller ones like this one come with a polycarbonate cover or diffuser.
The largest size I would need did not come with that. They are waterproof, so I doubt it would have any issues with abrasion that larger size.
It was large enough to be used with a PC 7518, which is rather large.
Here is a link to this one and you select the size you need.
I think the 80 mm spindle would need 100 MM ring.

The I ordered stereo plugs for quick disconnect.

[Jon.N.CNC]

I would like to see what you come up with for sure. Sounds interesting.
This shoe installs and removes very quickly without tools. Few turns of the wing nut on the hose clamp. Loosen the adjustable handle 1/4 turn. Unplug the ring light. It's off.
I designed that feature in, but honestly do not use it.
With such visibilty, it is easy to change bits and zero Z without removing it. I just use a high forward tool change position. I can change a tool in about 10 seconds.

Yeah I found it easy to begin with until cutting mdf and hdpe which found the chips statically attach themselves over the boot and leds and then it gets a little more difficult.

I see what your saying an adjustable depth skirt would help, just a case of remembering to adjust it or run the risk of creasing the pvc. Wonder how this could be automated. That would be smart.

The hinging idea would simply split to leave half of one side and the back of the skirt behind the spindle leaving the front and one side open for tool change and cleaning access. Rest of boot hinging horizontally. Just need a good seal between and a latch to pull tight the halves.

[HelicopterJohn]

Hi Lee,

Many thanks for the information. Did you actually attach the ring light to the bottom of the router i.e. PC7518 or did you mount it to your dust show. Also how did you mount it i.e. two sided tape etc.

Also, what voltage did the light ring require? I currently have a transformer supplying voltage to my laser edge finding unit. It would be nice if they were both the same that way I could just tap into the current source.

John

[LeeWay]

Yeah I found it easy to begin with until cutting mdf and hdpe which found the chips statically attach themselves over the boot and leds and then it gets a little more difficult.

I see what your saying an adjustable depth skirt would help, just a case of remembering to adjust it or run the risk of creasing the pvc. Wonder how this could be automated. That would be smart.

The hinging idea would simply split to leave half of one side and the back of the skirt behind the spindle leaving the front and one side open for tool change and cleaning access. Rest of boot hinging horizontally. Just need a good seal between and a latch to pull tight the halves.

It would not really need to hinge. You could take a page from Kent's design and simply use rare earth magnets and locating pins. Put in a cam knob to help release the magnets and you would be better than a hinge I think.
It would get clear out of the way. Split the skirts as needed. Even overlap them at the joint.

[LeeWay]

Hi Lee,

Many thanks for the information. Did you actually attach the ring light to the bottom of the router i.e. PC7518 or did you mount it to your dust show. Also how did you mount it i.e. two sided tape etc.

Also, what voltage did the light ring require? I currently have a transformer supplying voltage to my laser edge finding unit. It would be nice if they were both the same that way I could just tap into the current source.

John

I used 12 VDC for this ring light. The CRP plug and play system comes with an extra 12 VDC connection. They are automotive, so that is ideal. They can use up to 24 VDC. Man! Now that would be bright.
These are mounted in a dado inside the dust shoe. I mounted them using 3 drops of Lexel. One of each threaded insert that the collar uses. Lexel stays flexible and does not yellow. It is better than silicone for this application. If the light fails, you just thread screws into those inserts from the top side and the light will pop off. Probably not without damage, but at that point, it would have already failed. I considered other attachment methods. In fact the ring light covers come with clips that can be used.
When these get dusty, it is very quick to remove them and hit them with air or water to keep them clean.

[Jon.N.CNC]

It would not really need to hinge. You could take a page from Kent's design and simply use rare earth magnets and locating pins. Put in a cam knob to help release the magnets and you would be better than a hinge I think.
It would get clear out of the way. Split the skirts as needed. Even overlap them at the joint.

Magnets, a good idea. The height adjusting skirt has got me thinking, Putting the skirt on round bar and using linear bearings, a bit like the base of a handheld router, could just have the skirt lift all the way up solving the access issue. With some t slot to lock it off making it adjustable.

[LeeWay]

That would work. And it would be easily adjustable. I bought some 8MM bearings and rod for another product coming down the road. Those would work great for that. Even 6MM ones. I have also seen designs using an air cylinder to raise and lower everything.

Right now my collet uses two open end wrenches. That is what came with my spindle from CRP. I have a spanner collet that I will be using soon. I just need the wrench. I'll pick one up at some point. It will make changing tools just a hair quicker I think.
A spindle lock would be an outstanding feature as well. Maybe a spring loaded slide lock on the shaft? That would mean only one wrench. We do change tools often on this machine too. 3 and 4 times depending on the job. Most of our tools use the same 1/4" collet. The surfacing bit uses 1/2" and then I use a few drills each with different collets. Swapping collets certainly takes longer, so for those, each will have it's own collet nut.

That is about as fast as you will get with this kind of setup I think.
I would love to have a quick change system on this, but I think it might break the bank.
Oh I started another thread for this shoe.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...ml#post1806090

Doesn't matter to me where we continue the conversation though.

[Jon.N.CNC]

That would work. And it would be easily adjustable. I bought some 8MM bearings and rod for another product coming down the road. Those would work great for that. Even 6MM ones. I have also seen designs using an air cylinder to raise and lower everything.

Right now my collet uses two open end wrenches. That is what came with my spindle from CRP. I have a spanner collet that I will be using soon. I just need the wrench. I'll pick one up at some point. It will make changing tools just a hair quicker I think.
A spindle lock would be an outstanding feature as well. Maybe a spring loaded slide lock on the shaft? That would mean only one wrench. We do change tools often on this machine too. 3 and 4 times depending on the job. Most of our tools use the same 1/4" collet. The surfacing bit uses 1/2" and then I use a few drills each with different collets. Swapping collets certainly takes longer, so for those, each will have it's own collet nut.

That is about as fast as you will get with this kind of setup I think.
I would love to have a quick change system on this, but I think it might break the bank.
Oh I started another thread for this shoe.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...ml#post1806090

Doesn't matter to me where we continue the conversation though.

Using air would be easier to overcome any balancing issues you could get with round rail.

Lots to think about until I'm back at work at able to get a model cad'ed up.

With the clever use of proximity sensor might try n figure a way the skirt laps the stock by the same amount constantly. and a little override button to raise skirt for tool change.

Not aware of these single spanner spindle locks you speak of. Do you have a link? You can get Chinese atc spindles now for $2000 but until then That would improve my life massively.

[mbronkalla]

Here are the photos of my dust shoe. It is a 2 piece design with the fixed portion screwed to the bottom of the z axis slide and the lower section held with rare earth magnets and 2 brass locating pins. The pins are needed to prevent it from sliding off the magnets. The plastic is 3/8" acrylic. Dust port is 2" to the dust collector or shop vac. As I am using a water cooled spindle there does not need seem to be the need for a larger hose (unlike when using a router). Brushes are 3" x3/16 from McMaster Carr. Edges of the lower plate are beveled at 8 degrees as a rabbet with a small lip to help hod the brushes in place. Mounting the brushes was a real pain. Broke drill bits and end mills. Best thing was to notch with the band saw for the screws. There are probably better choices out there.
The dust show was one of the first things the router "made for itself".

Attachment 302672Attachment 302674Attachment 302676Attachment 302678

[520052]

Thought I'd chime in on this as I am usually a lurker here. Always looking for good information and usually find it posted by the people here. I needed a dust shoe for my router and wanted something for 6" hose and also wanted to make it easily adjustable in height. I would have much rather just bought the KentCNC split shoe but it didn't meet my needs. It was good inspiration though and I did buy the brushes from them. Well here it is.

Attachment 303796

[alevitt53]

Hey 520052,
Where do you get the "ball turret" that is on your vacuum line? Is it available in 4"
Thanks

[520052]

Hey 520052,
Where do you get the "ball turret" that is on your vacuum line? Is it available in 4"
Thanks

Got it at Ball Joint Swivel Air Handling Systems - Air Handling Systems

Kind of pricey but makes the whole thing work well.

[atarijeff]

Here's my contribution. 3D printed hose connector, magnet mount ring, and skirt ring. The skirt is made from stair tread protector.

Attachment 311846

[fretman_2]

Here's mine. Just a simple fixed height shoe...works great!

[hometek]

Hey - has anyone come up with a good solution for a dust shoe that works with an automatic tool changer?

[whimsical]

just need to print it out now
Hopefully it will work.
The brush will be little clumps of brush removed from a banister brush and inserted into holes drilled

Attachment 348626

[fretman_2]

Is your shoe designed to fit any particular spindle?

just need to print it out now
Hopefully it will work.
The brush will be little clumps of brush removed from a banister brush and inserted into holes drilled

[whimsical]

sorry i forgot that bit
I made to fit the 80mm 24k spindles
I think it is a bit too tall so it will get shortened and also the suck tube will get an elbow so it points up i think.
Maybe have to make it start smaller to fit the skirt then expand out to fit the vacuume. its all good fun hahahahaha