[K_Labs]

Hey I just got one of these and I want to know what I'm getting into. It's a hardinge with 5-C collet omniturn retrofit w/ a full enclosure I don't know much about it. I have some CNC training from NTMA but that was a year or 2 ago. They mainly focused on HAAS and I have never used a Fanuc control. Can any1 tell me the difference? I'm baffled. I also noticed there was no visible G54 in the manual. Why is that? It has a gang tool. The programming looks a little different from what I learned in school. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Did I post this in the right section or should I post in the programming section?

[K_Labs]

Now I just have to get this thing right side up. LOL.

[K_Labs]

BUMP

[littlerob]

I just started running 2 Omni's, there is no G54, there is one Z-zero, for each tool, it is not a fancy machine, it is dated, the screen is too hard to see, it has only a few options. With all that said it is great it makes good parts all day, and all night, and it is really easy to program. All the tools just need to be touched off individually on the face of the part, and you're good to go.

Robert

[K_Labs]

That's awesome. I'm happy I actually got a responce on here.

[JP Hardinge]

I Just bought one a few weeks ago. Hardinge AHC Omniturn Retrofit- the same machine.

I've been using a Hardinge CHNC with a Fagor 8025 retrofit for the past 2 years. I now do program editing in KipwareT, and send programs back and forth from a PC with WinDNC. Both softwares are excellent and work hand and hand.,

The g-code is very similar between the controls and I believe Kipware will translate the differences, and Kipware has DNC to send to the Omniturn. So I will be controlling both machines with my PC.

[K_Labs]

Awesome thanks for the heads up. We just picked up a bar feeder last week. We haven't even hooked up power to the hardinge yet although I did power up the OT control panel and messed around a little. I was wondering if it is possible to make the collet open and close from a program or do I need to do it manually?

[nate]

Having the collet closer powered through Gcode was easy with my CHNC (mach3). I dont know how to set in up in an Omniturn control, but I would think Omniturn would have a relay output for an air collet closer.

[JP Hardinge]

You bet if you have a power collet.

My recently aquired Omniturn came with this beauty-

[JP Hardinge]

Having the collet closer powered through Gcode was easy with my CHNC (mach3). I dont know how to set in up in an Omniturn control, but I would think Omniturn would have a relay output for an air collet closer.

Nate-

I've seen where you have done a lot of tear down work on these CHNC's.

Can you tell me which air/lube line sends lube to the ways and ball screw on the cross slide? I really need to check mine and make sure it's getting lubed on my CHNC properly.

The ways have those nice molded wipers and hardly any lube shows up on the ways. They are slick and not dry. I think the wipers do such a good job, it holds all the way lube inside. My ways are smooth,.

[nate]

Sadly, I dont have me CHNC running the original air/timer actuated lubrication unit (rolls of the tounge dont it...)

I can tell you that the X/Z axis ways AND the X axis ballscrew are oiled by the 3 lines that feed a small (deck of cards size) black metal box on the back underside of the Carrage (moving Z member) This small black metal block feeds channels that go to the X ways and the Bed (Z way) their is one tube that is a pass through that feeds the X ballscrew nut through a TINY barbed hose fitting.

Since I dont have the original lube setup, I hooked up a Bijur Pull-to-lube unit that feeds lube through the three lube lines that go into the metal block thing.

Loosen the metal block thing and see if lube pours out. Also check to see if it is filling.

The second Carraige assembley I bought for spares had the Z ballscrew also fed lube automaticly. My CHNC has the Z ballscrew lubed with a small oil cup entering a resovior (ballnut mount)

Hope this helps...

Nate.

[JP Hardinge]

Thanks Nate- does help.

I will check those. I know the 3 lines and block is there. Also, I know lube is getting used up, by having to add to the reservoir. Not much (maybe plenty), but it's getting used.

Do you know what I would need to remove to see the X ball screw, and check for lube at that point?

[nate]

IIRC, all that's needed are Allen wrenches.

However, to check the X ballscrew for lube, just pull the "block" that has the lube lines running to it and then pull the X ballnut lube hose off the barbed fitting. Actuate oiler and see if lube drips out....

[K_Labs]

OK so I've got the power and air all hooked up. I've had it going for about a week now and I've been super busy but I did some reading up in the manual so I wouldn't have to bug you guys with foolish questions. I have also been playing around with the control panel here and there when I get a spare moment. I copied the G & M code charts and I have been looking them over. I found out there are some M codes to open and close the collet.

Anyways. I wrote a test program on a super old computer I found with a floppy drive saved it and now I can't figure out how the heck to open it in the OT control. I noticed the RS 232 hookup on the back of the control and my super old comp has it as well. What do I need to do to get the computer to send my program to my control? Or is it to much hassle/money to get it going and should I just stick to floppies?

Also I was wondering if in my opening line of the program I should use G91 instead of G90 to get a tapered cut? It's all understandable but in the same respect it's confusing as hell because the Haas control didn't use G90 OR G91 for the lathe only the mill. I also don't understand why I have to use all the different G codes in between my X and Z locations where as with the Haas I would write a similar base program and just input a grip of X and Z points on different lines. Maybe it's just the test program in the OT manual is too basic and only making a single pass cut. Can some1 clarify if I'm explaining my confusion coherently.

[littlerob]

I use floppy, but have never tried R.S. I only use G90 for tapered or not. I am not sure what you mean

I also don't understand why I have to use all the different G codes in between my X and Z

I don't do that just canned cycles and G01 G00 and the standards.

Robert

[K_Labs]

That answers my question right there.

I only use G90 for tapered or not.

I'm progressing a bit every time I get some time in on the control. I am basically following the directions in the manual. I had to write the test program on the control because I still don't know how to load my floppy.

I got to the point where I ran the verification F4 and it looks decent but then when it's time to run the program (in single block) my slide goes way to close to the collet every time I get to the X0Z1 Command.

Another problem I'm having is before I even start the program it says
Command : Z40
I don't know how to clear it and it's nowhere in my program. Every time I hit emergency stop it seems like I have to start all over again. Re-Establish home and what not. Should I hit the motion stop instead?

[littlerob]

After so many years of running CNC out of habit, I NEVER use E-stop. Not ever. I use hold then reset (esc) on the Omni. But that is just me, and probably isn't the greatest habit, it just is. You do need to start everything over when you E-stop.

I wouln't worry about the Z40, I don't know what it is, but mine has it too. Just think of it as-- ready.

I got to the point where I ran the verification F4 and it looks decent but then when it's time to run the program (in single block) my slide goes way to close to the collet every time I get to the X0Z1 Command.

Are your tools touched off? Try putting a decimal place, are you rapiding to 1 inch in front of the part? Does it do what you want it to do after that line? Try Z.0 and see if it ends up behind your part face. Use the F keys to slow down the rapid moves, the slide has to be in motion, then press slide hold, then press F3 and it will slow down to 30% rapid. Experiment with it, but it sounds like an offset problem. Are you calling out a "D" value in the program? If so, delete that, it is for secondary offsets.

To load a floppy; put the disk in the drive, go around to the front of the control, press "A" for Automatic mode, press F5 and it will ask you the name of the file to read, enter the name (I.E. 1234) and press ENTER.

Robert

[K_Labs]

I tried to load a floppy. I hit A for automatic there is no F5 option but it does say FILE TO BE PROCESSED: I type in the number and it says file not found I noticed it's looking in the C drive and I want the B drive

[K_Labs]

I really appreciate all the help. I'm going to give u guys a break for a little bit
while I catch up on some work around the shop.

I'm still a bit confused with the taper thing would I just put a start and finish locAtion for x and z?

IE:
X.75Z.0
X.5Z1.5

[K_Labs]

Ok so here's the scoop. I had to purchase a welder to make a better enclosure for the rear door where the slide has to have clearance. The one that they put on there was made from aluminum was pieced together with rivets, screws and had grease everywhere around it so it wouldn't leak. I made a new enclosure and it looks decent. Powered it up again yesterday finally... made an air part, then the air line for the collet blew and I have to replace it today.