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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking > WoodWorking Topics > Bonding melamine to wood
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    1955

    Bonding melamine to wood

    Hi,

    I have a home project which is a sort of work / hobby table. What I would like to do, is bond a 4x8 ft x 3/4 in thick melamine sheet to some kiln dried 2x4s. The 2x4s are ribs to stiffen up the melamine sheet.

    I hope I am using the term properly, but just for clarification, this is the sheet product you see at home depot, etc which is a heavy sort of wood fiber board with a thick, slick coating of white melamine plastic on all sides. Sometimes you see shelves and cabinets made from this material.

    The challenge I have having is that I have never found a glue that will stick to the melamine surface to bond it to wood. Past attempts have failed to make a viable bond.

    I thought about screwing it on through the front surface down into the 2x4 ribs, and that is possible, but I prefer to avoid this if I can for cosmetic reasons, as well as avoiding low spots. The idea is to get a very flat, slick, smooth surface and melamine is very close to the need.

    Thanks for any ideas.

    Harry

  2. #2
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    Mar 2003
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    35538
    Gerry

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    Used to use RooClear quite often when gluing permanent shelving in melamine cabinets... cool stuff!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    128
    i would worry that woods expansion and contraction with humidity would cause the panel to warp.
    I would build a box out of plywood to support the melamine and attach with construction adhesive.

    Have not tried either but just my thoughts
    George

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by george4657 View Post
    i would worry that woods expansion and contraction with humidity would cause the panel to warp.
    I would build a box out of plywood to support the melamine and attach with construction adhesive.

    Have not tried either but just my thoughts
    George
    You're not going to get much expansion/contraction with wood over its length, as opposed to its width. Even less so if you use good kiln-dried wood, and put a finish on it...

    IIRC the RooClear works like Gorilla Glue and needs some moisture for the glue to work, though there should be just enough moisture in the 2 x 4.

  6. #6
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    Apr 2007
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    1955
    Thanks for the advice. I will look into those products. I will also consider the warping aspect - always a consideration for garage use.

    I mostly use kiln dried 2x4s around the house for that reason, but needed some 2x6s for one project. Even after 6 months of reasonably careful drying some, 1/2 of them warped pretty badly on me, so I still have a lot to learn.

  7. #7
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    Mar 2003
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    IIRC the RooClear works like Gorilla Glue and needs some moisture for the glue to work, though there should be just enough moisture in the 2 x 4.
    I don't believe that's the case, as there's no moisture in melamine. And we use it all the time for gluing melamine to melamine.

    As for kiln dried 2x4's. They still have a fair amount of moisture in them. They're not dried as thoroughly as kiln dried hardwood. I think they have around 20% moisture content??
    Gerry

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  8. #8
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    Apr 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    I don't believe that's the case, as there's no moisture in melamine. And we use it all the time for gluing melamine to melamine.

    As for kiln dried 2x4's. They still have a fair amount of moisture in them. They're not dried as thoroughly as kiln dried hardwood. I think they have around 20% moisture content??
    I think between 10-20 percent, depending on where it's stored, and possibly weather. I haven't used RooClear in 12 years however. IIRC at the time I used it, the recommended use for it was edge-to-face, and we never used it for face-to-face gluing.

    I will say if you're picking through 2 x 4s for a priject like this, I would try to use douglas fir, and find the most quartersawn and knot free pieces you could find. All the SPF stuff I've seen is garbage, unless you find some nice pieces of fir in the mix. And if you plan to use it for other than framing and need to store it, best to sticker them so they take/release moisture more evenly... I realize however, that some woods for studs are not commonly available in all regions...

  9. #9
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    Apr 2007
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    1955
    There probably are high end wood products around here, but realistically, the 2x4s are kiln dried ones from Home Depot or Lowest that I picked through at the store. I keep them on a shelf in the garage, and they seem ok for general projects around the house. No idea what the moisture level is after a few months in the garage in winter / summer.

    I attempted to dry out some conventional 2x6s in my mini van by keeping them somewhat stickered but on the floor and in the sun, as it has been such a wet winter. 1 came out fine, the others - not so great.

    The douglas fir we get around here is REALLLLY WET and GREEN. It almost looks moldy, which is why I have gone to buying kiln dried even for the most basic use. This is annoying, as it limits me to either 2x4 size product, plywood, or finishing grade wood. I should probably look around for some kiln dried 2x6s on line.

  10. #10
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    Apr 2007
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    1955
    Well, I just checked, and I had used tite-bond last time. I guess either I am doing something wrong (likely) or it is time to try Roos.

  11. #11
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    Mar 2003
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    Well, I just checked, and I had used tite-bond last time
    Did you use Titebond Melamine glue? Titebond makes many types of glues, and most won't stick to melamine.

    As for using 2x4's, I find the straightest ones possible, and use them right away. Rarely will you find ones that stay straight as they dry.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
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    Mach3 2010 Screenset
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    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  12. #12
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    Apr 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by harryn View Post
    There probably are high end wood products around here, but realistically, the 2x4s are kiln dried ones from Home Depot or Lowest that I picked through at the store. I keep them on a shelf in the garage, and they seem ok for general projects around the house. No idea what the moisture level is after a few months in the garage in winter / summer.

    I attempted to dry out some conventional 2x6s in my mini van by keeping them somewhat stickered but on the floor and in the sun, as it has been such a wet winter. 1 came out fine, the others - not so great.

    The douglas fir we get around here is REALLLLY WET and GREEN. It almost looks moldy, which is why I have gone to buying kiln dried even for the most basic use. This is annoying, as it limits me to either 2x4 size product, plywood, or finishing grade wood. I should probably look around for some kiln dried 2x6s on line.
    I guess it's a regional thing. Her in Westchester County, NY, Home Depot, they have kd douglas fir for just a few cents over the kd spf. I will say, that looking through the spf pile you'll find some nice staight quartered boards of fir. Sometimes you'll find none. But if I have the room in the truck, I'll always "pick" through...

    Another great place to pick through in Home Depot, btw, is the maple and oak hardwood section. I can't tell you how many times I find nice boards of curly, even fiddleback, maple and curly oak!

    Also if you have a decent lumberyard nearby, you could look into 2x4 or 2x6 poplar; usually the price is pretty low for a hardwood, and they'll let you pick through, you can find some nice boards to make a good frame out of.

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