[GeoffDuniam]

Hi all,

I've got the 2.2kw water cooled spindle - thanks everyone for the good info on this thread. I'll be using 4 core shielded cable to wire the vfd to the spindle, and connecting the earth wire as described. Just checked the manual (bit sparse on detail) and only details the U, V and W connections to the spindle. Assume that the earth wire gets connected to the E terminal on the inverter, but just wanted to check.

Apologies in advance if it's a stupid question, but I'd rather ask stupid questions first than make stupid mistakes later.

Thanks in advance,

Geoff

[cnc3678]

Hi Geoff,

That's correct ie connect the earth wire back to the inverter 'E' terminal. Make sure that your mains 240V supply earth is also bonded to this 'E' terminal as well (along with any other AC earths from power supplies etc).

Not a stupid question at all as it pays to be safe with AC wiring.

Regards,

Richard

[Yurtman]

I realise this is an old thread, but it has been very useful to me today. I have identified a small water/cooling fluid leak in my spindle. The leak is evident with a small amount of fluid on the tooling and rust on the collet. I suspect that the leak is coming from the seal or (lack of) where the o rings are after the top cap is removed. Although this area is dry, there are rust marks. Could anyone tell me whether there are other places where the water jacket could leak, I'm reluctant to fully disassemble unless I have to. Also I'm not sure whether to use a spray gasket sealant on the two faces surrounding the o rings?

[kevincnc]

I realise this is an old thread, but it has been very useful to me today. I have identified a small water/cooling fluid leak in my spindle. The leak is evident with a small amount of fluid on the tooling and rust on the collet. I suspect that the leak is coming from the seal or (lack of) where the o rings are after the top cap is removed. Although this area is dry, there are rust marks. Could anyone tell me whether there are other places where the water jacket could leak, I'm reluctant to fully disassemble unless I have to. Also I'm not sure whether to use a spray gasket sealant on the two faces surrounding the o rings?

The only other place I could see it leaking from would be between the aluminum core and the stainless outer sleeve, in which case the spray gasket might keep water from getting into the windings. I think I'd just do the o-rings without the sealer and see if that fixes it.
Kevin

[Yurtman]

The only other place I could see it leaking from would be between the aluminum core and the stainless outer sleeve, in which case the spray gasket might keep water from getting into the windings. I think I'd just do the o-rings without the sealer and see if that fixes it.
Kevin

Thanks Kevin, I think I will use a little liquid gasket around the o rings and around where the alu meets the steel.

[Dan Joss]

Kevin,
I'm taking apart my spindles and before I start do you know what size the "O" ring is between the cap and body?
Do you know what size the water fitting is that fits into the cap.
I know what size tube but I'm trying to find the fitting thread so I can change out the fitting to a push fitting.
Dan

[Pplug]

I'm not sure what fitting size is needed because there have been diferent sizes from diferent manufacturers. Your best bet is to measure the hole and thread using a digital caliper and thread gauge. I bet it's some type of metric thread though.

[Azalin]

Hi
Had a problem with the spindle, I kept getting a chattering when milling aluminum. For example when facing in a circular patten from 9 to 12 o'clock made a racket and again from 3 to 6 . The rest was reasonable. There was also a clicking sound from bearing when spun by hand
So pull down the spindle again and paying much more attention to the bearings this time.
Reminder the screw in the top bearing is a left hand thread.
Also I found that the bearing retaining nut on the font of the shaft (aluminium one) you have to be careful when unscrewing it across the missing thread where the spanner fits. As it can cross thread going on to the second part of the thread. This might be only on mine one?
What I found was the 2 front bearing are p4 angular bearing (Chinese) But they where both facing in the same direction without an opposing ones This allowed the shaft to move up and the wobble. Secondly the bearing outers where retain on a rubber spacer all so allowing vibration in the shaft.
So set about rebuilding the front end bearings
Aim was to us the same housings just put new bearing with new spaces blocks.
Attached are photos showing inside of spindle.
The Allen key in front bearing housing show where you put in one of 2 5mm grub screw to push the housing out of the body part.
The rubber ring is the raised part in the photo This part also had a very rough finish on its back.

In the photos the stain on the front bearing mount on the shaft was from the glue holding the bearing on. Could of run it with no bearing retaining nut on the shaft. There was no adjustment here!!!
Actually broke one of the old bearing tiring to get it off.

Made the new spacers up and put it back together. We had to much grease in the first time and it pull 2 amps to do 6000 rpm and was hot.
Had to play with how much to tighten the bearing down. Too much and it runs hot at 70c at 24000 rpm. Got it now running at 50c at 1 amp. Also took the rpm at the spindle with the taco and the reading was 23,890 rpm.Display 24000....
I would real like to run it on a oil feed but I have not been able to work out how to remove the oil and to stop it dripping on to a wood job.
Had to add a small space at top bearing as the front spacer moved the shaft 1mm down.
Put it all together and put it back in the mill.
Run a 6mm end mill and faced some aluminum ....smooth as a babes b#m

Hope this help any one having a problem with their spindle and the finish there getting.

Russell

Hi Russell,

I know some time passed since but I hope to get some feedback from you.

I disassembled mine today because the same chatter sound coming from the bearings and noticed that they are placed back to face then I googled and found your post.

I had a very hard time to unscrew the labyrinth seal as it was thread locked. Too much actually.

So, you faced the main bearings back to back. Did you use the spindle often after then? Did the spindle run better?

[rusel]

Hi
I put the angular bearings opposing each other and you have to get the correct tension once warmed up, a bit trial and error,this will take out any vertical movement with the shaft.
I run for a long time cutting aluminum wood and steel with no problems but did stop with a burned out a coil. Never did find a reason, water or overheating it was just black.
Just bought a new spindle and move the changes over and still running it.
Russell

[Azulikit]

NEED HELP PLEASE
I have a water cooled router 2,2kw and one of the fitting where the water hose attaches to the router is broken off. I need help finding a replacement fitting. I have searched and searched with no lick. If anyone has knowledge with this problem please direct me

[Azulikit]

did you get and answer about the water fittings? I need to replace one on mine Thanks

[n0kjf]

Hose and Fittings.com

4235-08X1.00-02 | MALE METRIC x FEMALE PIPE ADAPTOR
4235-08X1.00-02 MALE METRIC x FEMALE PIPE ADAPTOR


HF68PL-04-02 | PUSH CONNECT x MALE PIPE
HF68PL-04-02 PUSH CONNECT x MALE PIPE

I broke one too, I bought 4 sets ensuring that the other one will never break... since I have 3 replacements.

Lew

[nike_bytom]

Hi All,

I have found fittings on ebay and amazon:

1 PIECE 10MM NOZZLE FITTING FOR WATER-COOLED SPINDLE MOTOR ENGRAVING | eBay

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Raf

[The1Matrix1]

Dear bogan, did you count the number of poles?

[Vogavt]

....
Also I found that the bearing retaining nut on the font of the shaft (aluminium one) you have to be careful when unscrewing it across the missing thread where the spanner fits. As it can cross thread going on to the second part of the thread. This might be only on mine one?
...
Russell

I'm struggling to get that aluminum nut off. I've made a special tool to do so and have been able to get it loose but it gets really tight again as I try too take it off.
You said to be careful about cross threading but how do I do that. Not certain what's going on but it sure is tight.

I don't really want to do a brute force job and continue but any suggestions would be welcome.

[Stidrvr]

I'm struggling to get that aluminum nut off. I've made a special tool to do so and have been able to get it loose but it gets really tight again as I try too take it off.
You said to be careful about cross threading but how do I do that. Not certain what's going on but it sure is tight.

I don't really want to do a brute force job and continue but any suggestions would be welcome.

I used a little heat and that allowed mine to be turned off.

[Azalin]

I'm struggling to get that aluminum nut off. I've made a special tool to do so and have been able to get it loose but it gets really tight again as I try too take it off.
You said to be careful about cross threading but how do I do that. Not certain what's going on but it sure is tight.

I don't really want to do a brute force job and continue but any suggestions would be welcome.

I had to make a tool to get that stupid nut off.

[Vogavt]

I made a fool as well but it started galling the holes in the soft aluminum so I found an adjustable pin wrench at Harbor Freight for $5 and it worked great!

https://m.harborfreight.com/adjustab...nch-36554.html

[Azalin]

That's what I made. It's pinned too.



Sent from my MI 5s Plus using Tapatalk

[Azalin]

By the way the bearings in my spindle are gone. They cause terrible vibration and noise.

Sent from my MI 5s Plus using Tapatalk