[flyinchips]

Is any one else using the Tormach coolant and keeping track of the Brix for it?

I mixed up a batch and was surprised that it Brixed out at 2.5 % Brix. The folks at Tormach did not know what the Brix level should be (to my surprise), nor did they know the specific gravity of the coolant (they even asked the manufacturer). I was further surprised that they sell a 32 % Brix unit, not the 10 % Brix unit to read coolant levels. Surprised, because my reading Brixed very low with their coolant, perhaps other coolants Brix much higher.

As a sanity check: With Tormach coolant, what ratio of water and coolant are you using and what is your Brix reading?

You non-Tormach coolant guys could just chime in to complete the picture for me.

Cheers

[Scott_M]

For reference
The coolant I am currently using , that has eaten the paint off my machine. Monroe syn-cool. total synthetic. calls for a mix ratio of 10:1 for a brix reading of 3. And then specifies for general machining a brix reading of 3.5 or grinding a brix reading of 4.0. i kept mine about 3.5.
I will be switching over to trim-sol here very shortly, they call for a mix ratio of 3:1 and a brix of 1.01 but it is not clear on the label if that is the full strength or diluted reading.

just some reference numbers


Scott

[zephyr9900]

I use Boelube 70105 synthetic coolant at 3% Brix (about 1:16 concentration in water). I use a 10% Brix refractometer I bought from a winemaking supplier back in 2007.

Randy

[MichaelHenry]

I use Hangsterfer S-500 at 5-10 % and measure that with a refractometer that reads in percent.

[John_B]

Cimcool 40B at 10% for 3 brix.

[pete from TN]

I have looked at the Tormach coolant as an option but have never tried it. How do you guys that are using it finding it as far as rancidity and function in aluminum specifically? Also you all mention you are measuring the brix factor with the refractometers.. I did a search on ebay for these and there seems to be many and some are seemed to be spec'd for different uses. Is a refractometer a refractometer or is there a difference and ifso what type should we be looking at for use in a machining coolant environment? Forgive me for not knowing this but I have no experience here... Thanks for any information and advice in advance...peace

Pete

[flyinchips]

Essentially a refractometer is a refractometer. There are 3 basic types: an 80% Brix unit, a 32% Brix unit and an 11% Brix unit. I purchased an 80% and a 32% unit from China. They are, both, surprisingly nice. The 32% unit smelled of Diesel fuel when it arrived, but other than that, nice.

Tormach sells the 32% Brix unit. It seems to me, from the information above, they should be selling the 11% Brix unit as none of the readings exceed 11%.

Additionally, most modern units have automatic temperature compensation, it would be wise to be certain the unit you purchase has that feature.

Tormach coolant works well with Aluminum. I use it primarily for that and Acetyl. I went in that direction, because of the thread here and the Tormach warning about paint compatibility. I have had the same coolant in the machine since November without problem. Obviously top-up are necessary, but so far, no odor problems.

[pete from TN]

Thanks for the information, I may be changing coolant because I ran out of the last stuff I was using and cannot get it anymore. Their coolant is relatively inexpensive, how much does that gallon make? What is the ratio? peace

Pete

[MichaelHenry]

I use this one, which reads 0-10%:

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Mike

[Magnum164]

Tormach warning about paint compatibility. I have had the same coolant in the machine since November without problem. Obviously top-up are necessary, but so far, no odor problems.

Interesting on the paint. I have been unable to machine for a few weeks with work/health. However, I still went out everyday and turned on the coolant to keep it running and smelling.

To my surprise when I started machine parts this past week, several areas on the pan and the machine itself where under normal operations very little coolant will get has caused the paint to start peeling. I thought I was doing good, but seems if you do not use the machine everyday, leaving the coolant to dry on the paint is a no-no.

[bobeson]

I have been using a full-synthetic lubricant from Synthetic Lubricants Inc. called "Universal" that I purchase from KBCTools:
KBC Tools & Machinery, Inc.

It is "biodegradeable" (whatever that really means), does not irritate my skin (and I get random skin rashes fairly easily), and best of all is clear enough to see what's happening to chip buildup in pockets, etc. Disposal is supposedly very easy, as in down the drain for "most" municipalities, but since I'm in the forest on a septic system I have my own disposal method that is much simpler than a haz-mat visit&fee, and hopefully environmentally benign.

I mix at 10:1 and 15:1 for refills. I still don't have a brix measuring tool, but haven't had any known issues from eye-balling it so far. I change out the coolant entirely about every four-to-six months, and when I do, the tramp oils in the settling chamber look pretty nasty, but the coolant is usually still working OK and doesn't smell bad. I don't think it's eating my paint, at least not at a significant enough rate to notice vs. all the paint defects I introduce from cleaning chips, etc. The same coolant can also be used in my bandsaw, although they also sell a sawing-specific coolant ("Sawzit") that is slightly cheaper, and possibly has fewer additives, that I'm going to try out the next time I clean out my saw coolant. The same manufacturer also sells a concentrated cleaning fluid that does a great job of cleaning up all the dried residue from the significant quantities of evaporated coolant left on the flat top of my Tormach machine stand.

I would be curious to hear from other users why they prefer whatever coolant they are using. In particular, why do people use opaque oil-based or water-soluble oil coolants that go rancid , when clear synthetics appear to work so well? I'm particularly wondering if there are any potential performance enhancements to be gained by switching coolants, even though I don't have any known problems with my coolant thus far.

[Tbkahuna]

I use Tormach's synthetic coolant. I use the Tormach 32% Brix refractometer.

When I first got the machine I mixed several 1 gallon batches at 21:1. The average brix reading was about 2. I filled the tank with those batches, confirmed a 2 brix reading, and have used that as my benchmark. I have a sheet of notes on the mixing ratios and keep that with the refractometer for reference.

If it is a little above 2 I know it is more concentrated than 21:1, and if it is around 1.8, which seems to be my most common reading, it is slightly less.

I machine carbon steels, aluminum, and plastics, and the Tormach synthetic coolant works well for me. I did finally add a tramp oil pillow to the sump and the coolant stays in good shape, other than evaporation, for a long time.