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  1. #181
    Quote Originally Posted by Connor9220 View Post
    Okay, Here are some pictures of tonight's endeavor.
    Nice work!
    I experimented last year with something close.
    I used shim stock and constant force springs.
    The springs didn't have enough force to recoil all the way and I never got around to getting stiffer ones,
    just put the original bellows back on.
    Hoss
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 091611 051_800x600.jpg   091611 052_800x600.jpg  
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  2. #182
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    306
    Did you get the kinks(vibration) worked out of the belt drive?

    I like what you did with the blind. I was thinking about trying to contain the chips to an area around the mill. I was thinking of using a round ring with a shower curtain on it to enclose the mill.
    Checkout my new Tech Blog! http://xnaron.com

  3. #183
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Quote Originally Posted by Xnaron View Post
    Did you get the kinks(vibration) worked out of the belt drive?

    I like what you did with the blind. I was thinking about trying to contain the chips to an area around the mill. I was thinking of using a round ring with a shower curtain on it to enclose the mill.
    No, I've not got the vibration fixed. I need to have the pulleys redone. My mini lathe and my skills aren't up to the task to machine them with the necessary tolerances needed. I'll order a new pair. When I ordered mine, I order 1 metric and 1 Imperial. One came with set screw holes already drilled and tapped, but, for the life of me, I don't recall which one. Was going to look to see if I could just order the correct bore size for the motor to start with.

    I'm looking at making a enclosure. I'm thinking of doing something like Hoss did with his Chip-Pan.. but, I think it's going to be extended out in the front by around 7.5, enough for the vice to be inside of the chip pan.. But, that greatly complicates it because then I'm dealing with compound angles if I want the coolant to flow back toward the base. That's all going to come later after I fixed the spindle and finish up the power draw bar though.

    Connor
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  4. #184
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    822
    I didn't build mine for flood but I tweaked his chip pan idea a little and extended the front out a little but only low enough to clear the vise. If you put a slight angle on the shelf it could drain back into the pan. The biggest downside is you can't do a full spin with the chuck wrench.


  5. #185
    mrballistic is working on a wider version of my chip tray.
    Hoss

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtbapQ1P8yQ&feature=plcp]G0704 chip tray build part 1 - YouTube[/ame]
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  6. #186
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Quote Originally Posted by mrcodewiz View Post
    I didn't build mine for flood but I tweaked his chip pan idea a little and extended the front out a little but only low enough to clear the vise. If you put a slight angle on the shelf it could drain back into the pan. The biggest downside is you can't do a full spin with the chuck wrench.

    Looks like it could handle flood to me.

    I hadn't really thought about doing it like that.. Gives me a idea, Light you said, angle the shelf, but, it'll have a front edge and end caps too. Solves a few issues with my Y motor being front mounted.. I'll draw it up in Inventor later and see how it looks.
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  7. #187
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Quote Originally Posted by hoss2006 View Post
    mrballistic is working on a wider version of my chip tray.
    Hoss

    G0704 chip tray build part 1 - YouTube
    That was kind what I was thinking to begin with.. But, I was going to do compound angles to drain the coolant back into the metal chip pan..

    Question Hoss, How much further back does your Y extension put the Column? I want to take that into consideration when I build this so that If/When I device to extend the Y for over-travel, my chip pan can be easily modified to accommodate it.
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  8. #188
    Quote Originally Posted by Connor9220 View Post
    That was kind what I was thinking to begin with.. But, I was going to do compound angles to drain the coolant back into the metal chip pan..

    Question Hoss, How much further back does your Y extension put the Column? I want to take that into consideration when I build this so that If/When I device to extend the Y for over-travel, my chip pan can be easily modified to accommodate it.
    The column is 2 inches farther back.
    Hoss
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 033111 051.jpg  
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  9. #189
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Quote Originally Posted by hoss2006 View Post
    The column is 2 inches farther back.
    Hoss
    Okay, So, Yea, I would have to Cut the rear in-two and the somehow build a build a little extension to go around it. Hmm.. I'll have to think about that..
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  10. #190
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Okay, Here are a few renderings of a chip-pan concept. Tolerances are tight at the front stepper motor mount area because of the X limit switch. and like someone mentioned, you won't have full clearance for the vise handle.. But, I don't think that's a big deal. I think in order to install it, I will have to remove the stepper, and possibly the mount. I think the spacer block could stay in place.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails chip-pan1.jpg   chip-pan2.jpg  
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  11. #191
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Hey Guys, Question: I'm upgrading the bearings on my spindle. I managed to get the smaller bearing nut removed. The lower one is giving me issues. I want to verify that this is a standard Right Hand Threaded nut on the larger lower one.. Part of the issue is, I'm using a pin wrench I made.. and the pins are just #6 screws and they're bending before the nut gives.

    Thanks, Connor
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  12. #192
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    93
    On post#-9 HERE You can see the proto spanner wrench and slight mod I did to get mine out. Yes its regular rt hand threads and I built a wrench similar as what you did with the same result of bent bolts. I ended up just getting the spanner wrench and modding the holes slightly to use it. I'm in Oregon if you're near you can just borrow mine.

    SFL

  13. #193
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Quote Originally Posted by SuperFlyLoser View Post
    On post#-9 HERE You can see the proto spanner wrench and slight mod I did to get mine out. Yes its regular rt hand threads and I built a wrench similar as what you did with the same result of bent bolts. I ended up just getting the spanner wrench and modding the holes slightly to use it. I'm in Oregon if you're near you can just borrow mine.

    SFL
    I'm in Tennessee. Been looking for a pin spanner online and haven't really found one that looks like it would work. Very frustrating not having the right tool for the job. Where did you get your spanner from?
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  14. #194
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    93
    Quote Originally Posted by Connor9220 View Post
    I'm in Tennessee. Been looking for a pin spanner online and haven't really found one that looks like it would work. Very frustrating not having the right tool for the job. Where did you get your spanner from?
    I got it from the Cornwell tools guy that comes by my buddies machine shop. I'm sure Snapon or someone like that in your area will have it. Its made by proto(stanley) and is about 40 or 50 bucks. I hated buying it for a one time use, but it was money well spent for the bearing upgrade. Good luck.

    SFL

  15. #195
    Go to Sears, they have lots of spanner wrenches.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  16. #196
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    4415
    Maybe even in the tools section of a good bicycle store. They used to use pin spanners of course now it is all splined.
    A lazy man does it twice.

  17. #197
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Quote Originally Posted by hoss2006 View Post
    Go to Sears, they have lots of spanner wrenches.
    Hoss
    No dice at my local store.
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  18. #198
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Alright, Anyone willing to loan a spanner wrench big enough to handle the lower nut? This is crazzy. I got the top one off using my home made one, but the bottom won't budge. The spanner's I see online are over $40-50 for one large enough for the bottom.. and I only need it for this bearing upgrade. I can't make one right now because my machine is in parts.. This is so freaking frustrating!!
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  19. #199
    you can always use a hammer and punch at an angle.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  20. #200
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by hoss2006 View Post
    you can always use a hammer and punch at an angle.
    Hoss
    That's what I did. Didn't know if was a good idea or not, but it worked. Makes me feel a little better about it hearing someone else say it. If you go that route, just be careful to avoid hitting the lip of the hole, it damages somewhat easily.

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