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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    231

    DEPTH OF CUT ON MDF TABLE TOP?

    Hi Guys,
    I have a question about using MDF as a sacrificial surface. My table is set up with a 2 zone vac system. The manifold sheet is planed flat and drilled with 1000 1/4" holes and a sheet of 1/2" MDF is on top of that. The vac draws thru 1/2" MDF and works great, if the material is at least 12" X 24" it is nearly impossible to move it on the table. Here is the issue; in my little experience with MDF it seems to be doing something strange, during the heating of the day and the cooling of the afternoon the MDF curls, this curling effect causes a loss of vacuum pressure and a non-flat surface. Currently, my MDF is not attached to the vac manifold, but is held in place by the vacuum itself, that way I have the option to remove it.

    1. If I bolt the MDF to the vac manifold I know that it will not visibly curl but in your experience does it truly remain a machine flat surface?

    2. Almost all of my cuts are profiles, cutting out parts from the sheet, so how much do you guys normally cut into the sacrificial surface to release your parts?

    Obviously, the less that you cut into the sacrificial surface the longer that it will last, but if the MDF is curling say .025 over a 4 FT length then it must be compensated for in cut depth.

    Anyone with direct experience please comment, I want to optimize the sacrificial surface so that I do not have to continuously change it out.

    -Scott

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    On our 5x12 machine at work, we cut .003" into the spoilboard, and resurface it when small parts start to move.

    The curling is due to changes in humidity.

    If the corners are curling up, just flip the MDF over, and it should flatten out easier.
    If you have enough vacuum, it should remain very flat with vacuum applied.
    As soft rubber seal in a channel around the perimeter may help to pull it down better.
    Gerry

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    409
    Try surfacing both sides of the MDF.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    723
    How about a dehumidifier?
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    264
    After you resurface the MDF you could put a coat of sealant on it to keep it from absorbing humidity if that's your issue.

    I found that when I surface a sheet of MDF it'll curl right away due to the difference in tension between the surfaced side and the non-surfaced side.

    I drill through the MDF and attach it to the bed surface. Make sure that the bolt heads are at least .25" below the surface to start. Then I surface the MDF....stops the curl. I don't use a vacuum on the bed itself so I don't know if it'll actually hold a vacuum or not.....sorry.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Quote Originally Posted by mlabruyere View Post
    After you resurface the MDF you could put a coat of sealant on it to keep it from absorbing humidity if that's your issue.

    I found that when I surface a sheet of MDF it'll curl right away due to the difference in tension between the surfaced side and the non-surfaced side.

    I drill through the MDF and attach it to the bed surface. Make sure that the bolt heads are at least .25" below the surface to start. Then I surface the MDF....stops the curl. I don't use a vacuum on the bed itself so I don't know if it'll actually hold a vacuum or not.....sorry.
    You can't seal the MDF if your going to pull a vacuum through it.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    177
    Quote Originally Posted by Connor9220 View Post
    You can't seal the MDF if your going to pull a vacuum through it.
    ...but you can seal the edges.......(chair)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    630
    Quote Originally Posted by EBC View Post
    ...but you can seal the edges.......(chair)
    But, I don't think that's going to help very much on the MDF curling...
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