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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking > WoodWorking Topics > Tips on avoiding corner blowout with hardwoods
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    35

    Tips on avoiding corner blowout with hardwoods

    After months of practicing on particle board and ply, I finally attempted some CNC milling of Mahogany (is this technically a hardwood? It actually feels kind of soft).

    I was cutting this form out:

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...6/6f588bbc.jpg

    18KRPM and about 50ipm feed on a 1/8" endmill.

    Interestingly, I was getting blowout on only two of the 4 sharp corners. My first assumption was that this was a grain/climb mill cut problem.

    I've been thinking about drilling around the problem corners before doing the main outline, but are better ways of dealing with blowout problem?

    [I've seen "fishtail" downcut end mills for sale, but I have no experience of working with them]

    All constructive advice appreciated.

    Steve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    If there is material on both sides of the bit, then that helps a lot. The other thing, is if you start in a corner, make sure it cuts the endgrain first. Ideally, you'd want to start in the middle of a straight edge.

    And Downcut's tend to tearout less, but can still do it.

    It's all about grain direction, and where you start and stop.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    35
    Thanks for the reply.
    Hmmm... so you think that drilling isn't going to help?

    I thought it was interesting that while two of the corners where sharp, the opposite diagonal-pair were consistently blown out. Made me think that doing some kind of climb+conventional strategy might fix it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    Quote Originally Posted by shobley View Post
    Where'd you get the file for that project?
    Hopefully it's free!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    35
    I drew it myself...

    (in blood) ;-) *

    It's pretty simple, just a bunch of circles, a square and some lines that bisect through the middle.
    If I'm successful I might put together an article about building the complete prop.

    Actually on the topic of the "star pattern"

    I am cutting from a 0.75" plank of mahogony on my CNC, so I created 4 'slices' through the model and then glued all the parts together, but the internal faces are obviously not one piece of wood.

    In the picture it looks like its been cut from a single block of wood. The only way I can think to achieve this to use a drill press and make some initial holes, then cut out the 'slices' with a band saw - *then* file like crazy to get the corners nicely flattened.

    Or is there a better way...?

    Steve


    * [Just to explain that rather bizarre comment, the box in question "opens the doorway to Hell" it's a prop used in the movie Hellraiser. - Ed]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Hmmm... so you think that drilling isn't going to help?
    I keep looking at the pic, but can't quite picture what you're routing, and where it's tearing out???
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    290
    I have a right hand and a left hand 1/4" bit in my tool changer (both downcuts). You can attack from both sides. It's very handy for eliminating chip out.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    140
    An aside, "Hardwood" has nothing to do with the actual hardness of the wood - Balsa is a Hardwood, for example. Fir is much harder than many hardwoods, despite being a softwood.

    Hardwoods reproduce with covered seeds - fruit, nuts, etc. and have broad leaves which typically fall off during winter. Softwoods drop cones or release seeds into the wind, and most species stay green all winter.
    --
    ck

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1328
    Quote Originally Posted by CarbonKevin View Post
    An aside, "Hardwood" has nothing to do with the actual hardness of the wood - Balsa is a Hardwood, for example. Fir is much harder than many hardwoods, despite being a softwood.

    Hardwoods reproduce with covered seeds - fruit, nuts, etc. and have broad leaves which typically fall off during winter. Softwoods drop cones or release seeds into the wind, and most species stay green all winter.
    I did not know that...

    Thanks for the information!
    Mark
    :cheers:

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