[gmfoster]

Those are really nicely detailed!

[JerryBurks]

So, I wanted to see if I can machine a Lithophane. Problem was I did not have the recommended Corian sheet or similar translucent acrylic. Well, and I do not have special photo-carving software either.
Here is a method that provided a pretty reasonable result (not sure if that is a newish idea or already known):

I used this image of my toy car to start:


Imported into the Windows 3D-Builder (comes with Windows10), and converted into an .stl file as height map with highest color resolution and medium high pixel resolution:


Imported the .stl into VcarvePro as model and created roughing tool path (0.125" dia EM) and finishing tool path (0.05" dia ball end):


Then started cutting on my machine (roughing about 12 minutes and finishing about 55 minutes for an 8x3" result. This is clear extruded 0.22" thick acrylic and I broke 2 bits before I got the feed and stepover right in this sticky melting material. I did use a pretty hefty compressed air stream (from the aluminum tube in the picture) to clear the swarf and cool the bit.


To be continued..

[JerryBurks]

Here continued pictures of the previous post....

Not a bad cutting result, with light from above. Other than normal lithophanes, the dark areas are machined deeper and the light ones less deep.


Then I mixed epoxy resin with grey pigment. The only stuff I had at hand was a jar of rottenstone abrasive powder and I used a tablespoon for 5 ounces of resin. It took some 5 minutes of stirring to dissolve the clumps and have an evenly pigmented resin. I then poured the resin onto the cut acrylic plate so that the entire area was covered and let it set overnight. The screws are under the corners to adjust the leveling of the plate. Although no light from below, the image is already a little visible.


Holding it into the sun makes the image pop out quite nicely. So I guess that was a successful experiment. Still need to trim and frame it somehow.
One could think of different color pigments or dyes to create a combination effect of stained glass and lithophane. Maybe I keep experimenting a little.

[JerryBurks]

Forgot to add the happy end...
I cut the "lithophane" (although it rather looks like an old style b&w film slide) to size and made a frame for it.
As a fun effect I let a bunch of the car's 3-d mini-models race around the frame (canary wood). For now I set it into the corner of my office window but need to find a better place.

[MadAubrey]

Just binge-watched this thread and I have to bow down in awe - The machine is superb and the results you are getting out of it are mind-blowing.
Just one question: What the heck are you going to do for an encore ???

[JerryBurks]

Just binge-watched this thread and I have to bow down in awe - The machine is superb and the results you are getting out of it are mind-blowing.
Just one question: What the heck are you going to do for an encore ???

Ha! Good question....
For a while I worked on the design of a smaller, lower cost CNC that can be operated horizontally (like usual) and tilted up vertical to machine larger (thicker) parts from the side. I have all the linear THK style bearings, ballscrews, closed loop steppers with drives and motion controller in a box waiting to be used, some $1500 worth of stuff.
But I realized that I would not have the space for it and that my BigBamboo machine does really all I need to do so I just stopped working on the smaller version.

For that reason I can not really answer the question. Right now I just do what looks interesting to me and may change my mind tomorrow and start something else. Like mentioned earlier I am a hopeless case of project ADHD.

[JerryBurks]

Well, no new machine but maybe an update on my latest project....(series of 3 picture posts)
I want to build a functional wooden garden cart, something like a 2-wheeled wheelbarrow and I want it completely made from wood, without screws, nails and bolts. To be sure it can be done I started making a wheel over the weekend, kind of like the old wagon wheels, 24" diameter and 16 spokes. Lacking the iron hoop (and having a CNC router at hand), I made the rim segments interlock with dovetails and crooked the spokes to achieve a double dish spoke layout (like a radially spoked bicycle wheel)for better rigidity. I used simple 3/4" pine board from HD for cost reasons.

I think it came out quite nice. Now I need to make another one and build the cart box.

Cutting 2 of 16 rim segments (1-sided):


Custom vacuum pod to hold the segments:


Cutting 2 of 4 hub discs (2-sided):


Cutting 4 of 16 spokes (2-sided):


to be continued...

[JerryBurks]

Next pictures...

All parts completed:


Starting the rim assembly:


First side dish of spokes:


- - - Updated - - -

Next pictures...

Trueing up and chamfering on the lathe (sometimes it is good to have a lathe with 24" diameter capability).


Wheel complete and finished with unpigmented stain:


The rim is deeply grooved to install a bicycle tire:

[fretman_2]

wow...fantastic and ingenious!

[Devastator]

Very nice joinery Mr. Wainwright!

[Mauser]

You have a hammer with a built-in bottle opener? Want!

[jfong]

I'm looking at the images and thinking that's really neat. Then scroll down and see a big General lathe. That's not fair!!! All I have is a small midi lathe that can only turn a 8" diameter bowl. I do want a big lathe one day.

[1Jumper10]

Jerry -

How do you design your parts? I mean with what program?

I'm always amazed by what you've built.

[JerryBurks]

.....How do you design your parts? I mean with what program?......

I use IronCAD. This is a 3D-design solution similar to Solidworks, SolidEdge or ProE/CREO. Unfortunately similarly expensive but I have it already for a long time.

[JerryBurks]

Very nice joinery Mr. Wainwright!

I had to look up the "wainwright". I knew the cartwright and the wheelwright and compared to these craftsmen I feel like cheating with the CNC machine. Oh well.

Some more progress. I will post more pics when the whole thing is complete with handle and everything.

[JerryBurks]

Final update for this project, this is complete.



Rear view with legs down:


Legs up:


Standing upright:

[JerryBurks]

I had several people ask for the design files of the cart and specifically the wheels and I have no problem sharing that.
Just be aware this is not a trivial project, can not be done on a sloppy machine and may need some iterations to get it right (I had to re-do a few parts myself).

But otherwise, enjoy! It was a fun project for me.

You will find the zipped download with a few hints on my web site under the tab Garden Cart

You can use any of that for hobby or business purpose as you like.

[Marti]

Final update for this project, this is complete.



Rear view with legs down:


Legs up:


Standing upright:

I love the wagon wheel

[JerryBurks]

I revisited an old project (see posts here) which is the MazeMaker software to calculate random mazes and generate g-code output. At some point 2 years ago I had a beta test going but I got stuck on several details and never finished it. During this time I had several people reminding me to keep working on that. And...here it is!

In my latest version (1.01) I added the option of importing bitmap images as outline of the maze with pixel edit feature, fixed the dxf output and the perimeter cutout tool path. I guess it is good enough for publishing and I posted a download link on my web site: Mazes. If you are interested, have a look and let me know what you think about it. To avoid clogging this forum you can use the contact feature there.

Example, cutting a maze with the shape of a horse. The whole process did not take more than a few minutes.

Step 1: find an image and convert to a bitmap .bmp file. This can be greyscale or color but a black/white silhouette like below is easier to use:


Step 2: Convert to a blocking pattern and edit with Mazemaker. Note the green tile as defined starting point for the maze:


Step 3: Calculate a random maze (this is single sided flat, but double sided or cylindrical mazes are possible as well).


Step 4: Generate gcode and cut directly on the CNC. Alternatively generate a dxf file with the tool paths and import/simulate/output using a CAM software like Vectric VcarvePro or Aspire:

[JerryBurks]

Now here is the practical side...as mentioned in previous post, the maze calculation and tool path files take only a few minutes. The actual machining process took about 3 hours. Not too bad for a design that is about 34" x 23"

Preparing a custom vacuum hold down fixture. The outline was carved as shallow tool path and the gasket stuck on inside that.


Slotting the channels with an 1/8" downcut bit:


After chamfering the outside with 90 degree v-bit and cutting out, the undercut ball channel is machined with a 1/4" ball end plunge bit. Since I did not have a proper fluted bit I used a ball end burr bit that created more dust than chips but with the help of some compressed air it worked well.


Almost finished...