[antichip]

Help troubleshooting fanuc 11 m on a toyoda fv45. I try and power up the machine and the monitor will not lite up. The monitor board in the top right of the cabinet has a green light until the power button is pressed then a red light also comes on. We just got this machine and are tying to get it up and running. Any help would be great.

Josh l 352 398398 3979

[tc429]

think thats a power supply, the red light means a short...if theres a i/o board below it, you might try unplugging the i/o card honda plugs, if it stays on, then start looking for a short in wherever those cables go...usually the i/o card near the crt is just for the operator panel, but it could go elsewhere too...look at the usually exposed contacts on things like feedrate override/other rotary switches for chips, chips in a broken light socket, torn boots on toggle switches that got water inside, etc...
if the only thing left plugged in is the crt and it still wont clear, unplug that too, if it still dont clear, its probably that supply...the 10/11s we had with 9" monochrome CRTs used to blow these supplies fairly often, but usually the little clear square fuses (or were they the big black ones with the indicators?) would blow if they were damaged, usually happened for no apparent reason at boot up after the weekend...theres a big regulator on the heatsink (hard to find IIRC) and some caps that are usually the culprit...IIRC theres test pins on that supply clearly labeled too, but honestly havent even seen one in about ten years- and my memory sucks anymore...

if im thinking of the wrong part, theres also red/green lights on the io cards...usually indicate a fiberoptic problem...you can have someone shine a flashlight into the control end of the optic cable, should come thru bright at the crt end if its not damaged...Ive had a few of the 'cop1' connectors go bad over the years the IRED emitter burns out eventually- you can use your phone camera to look at it with power on, should look bright white down in the one hole, compare with the fiber end, should look similar or brighter...if dim or just dark in the socket, might need replaced...you can look at any tv remote with your camera phone, see what i mean about the IR...showed my neighbor that on his garage door sensors(one was dead) he thought that was cool as heck

hopefully you just got a metal chip in the panel connections messing it up- good luck

[antichip]

The board that throws a red light will quit throwing the red light if the ribbon that runs to the power supply that is mounted on the fanuc board that is mounted below the above mentioned input unit. This ribbon os like 6the wires and goes directly to the input unit. It came on the first night with no issues. Next day we had these issues but it started working on its own. N ow only issues. So what's the best way to test the power supply

[antichip]

Ok I camein this morning with a fresh attitude.

The power supply input board has 3 relays on it. Only one of them is worl
king. 2 werw working before someone started playingaround swapping them around. They are all the same unit. The power supply will get 220 for a split seacond and then drop out if I leave cp1 plugged in. If I unplug cp1 it will not trip the redlight on the input board, and it has the 220, but I don't seee voltages at the points on the power supply.

I am almost 100% sure it is the power supply, but the relay issue bugs me now.

[tc429]

list the board number- no promises, but if i get a chance tonight ill look for a board level schematic for it...

[yours_prabhat]

Dear Sir,
Please check the power supply unit output +15 . -15 , 24 and 5 v on main board than if you found OK Open power supply unit and re install , If problem continue please communicate regards [email protected]

[antichip]

I so hate computers. I waited to respond till I could sit down at a computer instead of my dumb phone. I hoped it would be easier and easier to read, so 20 minutes or better into a responce and poof.

power supply board is a16b-1210-0560

input unit is a16b-1600-0880-04a


The relay on the input board and are in the right spots.

I got no voltages at the pins on the power supply that are on the bottom in the back. I tested it while the board was in the machine.

I had more earlier but I'lll be back there in the morning.

[yours_prabhat]

Dear Friend,
Do not hate Computer and do not be anxious Please keep yourself cool it will help you to improve your knowladge , Now next = you do not have to check the Voltage on PSU you have to check the Voltage on the TP of mother bpard of the machine, There you will find Tags of + 15 -15 5 and 24 v please check that if have any confusion please communicate on [email protected]
Regards

[antichip]

I really do hate computers, and it has nothing to do with not knowing them, I think it is more that they are a part of everything I do do.



OK so I replace the a16b-1600-0800 and I have the same issue. I also leave the cp1 plug un pluged so. alarm dont trip.

no voltage on the pins on the main board.

I only see 110 v on the power supply, and only 110 on the terminals of the input board. I have 220 to the power unit board. I am about ready to make a 220 lead and run it to the power supply.


Thank-you

[antichip]

Lets sum up the day, maybe someone can put it perspective for me.

We got a new input board, or a known good working one. I started by testing the power going into the power supply. I was reading 110 on pin 1 to ground and 2 had 110 to ground, and 0 between them. After testing and such on the phone with fanuc, I discovered that the r and s terminals going into the input board have 220. the cp2- cp5 plugs have the same 110 to ground. well upon testing between the pins ion the cp2 and the r and s, I get 220 v between pin 1 and r, 220 v between 2 and r, 0 between pins 1 and 2 and the r or s or between pins 1 and 2 themselves.

Before this was found to be the case I swapped out the new input board for the old one again. The red light started coming up again, I plugged everything back in and it worked for like a minute.

I would like to find board level schematics for the input board and the power supply.

Wow I am so trying to take this slow, but this is so much more than frustrating. We bought the machine knowing there would be issues, down the road I was hoping.

I will keep this updated with what I find..